FJ62 compressor replacement and 134a conversion (1 Viewer)

[Southbound]

Just make sure you remove the cores from the original valves before you screw the retrofit adapters on. And a couple drops of red Loctite to keep them secure.

Taking the old cores out would let any refrigerant escape wouldn't it?
Is it as easy as unscrewing Schrader valves? I bought 134a adapters but they won't thread on. I do still have some refrigerant in the system.

 

[dogcruiser]

@Southbound If you still have refrigerant in your system then then, yes, removing the cores will release the refrigerant. You’ll want to have the refrigerant removed before getting started with the project. The valves will happen when the system is open, at the same time as replacing the dryer and any other components.

Valve core tool

Removing the cores is super easy. You just need to get a tool for it, which will only cost about $2 from the auto parts store.

Screwing the adapter onto the old valves should also be very easy. I believe there’s a torque spec when tightening them but can remember off hand. Use some red loctite on them as well

 

[Dr jay]

I gotta tell you I just love these forums because you learn so much. So thanking everyone in this thread for their input.

So as I do the conversion to r134, at the end of the day is there a consensus as to what new R/D part# we should use? and easiest place to get it?

Since i'm a little too environmentally conscious and don't want to just 'release' all the R12 into the atmosphere I have an appointment with a shop in 2 weeks to evac the R12 and do a pressure test to see if there is a leak. Then I can remove the cooler box to change the TXV; also will clean and drain the compressor (unless it's leaking in which case i'll replace it) and refill with PAG, and then of course replace the R/D, and put on the correct valve stems.
thanks again for all the help!!
jay

 

[LCnAZ]

I gotta tell you I just love these forums because you learn so much. So thanking everyone in this thread for their input.

So as I do the conversion to r134, at the end of the day is there a consensus as to what new R/D part# we should use? and easiest place to get it?

Since i'm a little too environmentally conscious and don't want to just 'release' all the R12 into the atmosphere I have an appointment with a shop in 2 weeks to evac the R12 and do a pressure test to see if there is a leak. Then I can remove the cooler box to change the TXV; also will clean and drain the compressor (unless it's leaking in which case i'll replace it) and refill with PAG, and then of course replace the R/D, and put on the correct valve stems.
thanks again for all the help!!
jay

Nothing wrong with that.

 

[dogcruiser]

I think

I gotta tell you I just love these forums because you learn so much. So thanking everyone in this thread for their input.

So as I do the conversion to r134, at the end of the day is there a consensus as to what new R/D part# we should use? and easiest place to get it?

Since i'm a little too environmentally conscious and don't want to just 'release' all the R12 into the atmosphere I have an appointment with a shop in 2 weeks to evac the R12 and do a pressure test to see if there is a leak. Then I can remove the cooler box to change the TXV; also will clean and drain the compressor (unless it's leaking in which case i'll replace it) and refill with PAG, and then of course replace the R/D, and put on the correct valve stems.
thanks again for all the help!!
jay

I think anything but the Denso is ok. But if you get the Four Seasons / NAPA then you’ll want something like the fitting from Cruiser Head or some rubber to make it fit securely.

 

[dogcruiser]

And good job finding a place to take the R12. I must have called 20 shops before I could find someone.

 

[Dr jay]

Update: R12 evacuated and cooler box is out. I’m going to replace the pressure switch while everything is apart. In other mud posts some people have put product part numbers up but so far I can not find the listed products. Now I’ve found other pressure switches (four seasons HVAC binary switch 8059-05762311) but before I go installing the wrong thing does anyone have any current product part number that we know works? the one I took out is denso 0850 and I can even find that.

also does anyone know how to individually pressure test or leak test the condenser and evaporator? I don’t think either of them are leaking but again don’t want to do the work twice! Thanks
jay