FJ60 stalling question (1 Viewer)

[Infinity00]

Why jump straight across? His plug works, but may not be getting grounded. He needs to jumper hot to hot on the plug - and ground his ICS directly to the carb using the other jumper. There are pictures showing this. And probably links (or search for) to the green wire mod (white wire on ics side gets grounded)

 

[Gretsch]

Why jump straight across? His plug works, but may not be getting grounded. He needs to jumper hot to hot on the plug - and ground his ICS directly to the carb using the other jumper. There are pictures showing this. And probably links (or search for) to the green wire mod (white wire on ics side gets grounded)

Yeah understood. The OP's plugs no longer fit together. Its different on the replacement ICS. So trying to initially connect both sides using jumper wires.

What’s a jumper? The original one has the two metal pieces horizontal & the new one has one horizontal and one vertical.

The OP did not really specify what 'wiring' was done, but I assume it was the jumper wires suggested by @NeverGiveUpYota. Was more suggesting a method to troubleshoot the wiring they did and assuming the grounding is good, just that the ICS is not connected properly causing it to not energize (either ground or hot or both). Agreed though the ICS ground bypass would rule out a ground issue and may fix the OP's problem at the same time at the expense of bypassing the ECU control of the ICS intended by the factory, which has its own sets of issues. I included a pic of the exact bypass mod done on my truck as a guide for doing that earlier in this thread which I'll include again here if the OP is interested:

Hopefully you can tell how it was done.

To the OP: Could we see pics of what wiring option was used on your truck?

 

[hbunting]

What is your idle rpm? Had similar issue for a long time. Did replace the ICS. My idle was at about 600. I advanced timing by turning the dizzy cap a tad counter clockwise . I idle at about 700 now. Issue is gone.

My idle RPM is basically nothing. It dies at an idle. If you have the gas pressed a little it's fine, but as soon as you let up on the pedal sometimes it will idle a little rough for a few seconds, but then shuts off. I'm not sure what my Idle RPM was before this problem, but pretty low. Never had an issue with a rough idle

 

[hbunting]

Yeah understood. The OP's plugs no longer fit together. Its different on the replacement ICS. So trying to initially connect both sides using jumper wires.


To the OP: Could we see pics of what wiring option was used on your truck?

Yes, I'll get you a pic this weekend. I may try to re-do my jumper wires first just to make sure the connection is good. And you're correct, that's all the wiring I did. Connecting the ICS into the carb seemed pretty straight forward. I'll try grounding it to the carb this weekend too and see if that works. Would make sense.

 

[Rube]

If you intermixed your jumper wires you may have blown the engine fuse. I've done that before. Just double check the fuse before you go any further.

 

[hbunting]

If you intermixed your jumper wires you may have blown the engine fuse. I've done that before. Just double check the fuse before you go any further.

Ah. Good to know. I bet I did. I'll double check it. Thanks!

 

[hbunting]

Ok, so my fuse was good. Got the jumper wires set up and grounded it to the carb (pic below). Idled no problem for about 5 minutes. Took her for a test run and it died the first two times i tried to stop at a stop sign, but then ran fine. Drove for about 5 minutes without an issue. Coming home, came down a hill, and it died around 1K RPM. After that it would die every time i hit the breaks, or had the rpm below about 1K. Let it sit for a few minutes after I got home, started it up again and it idled fine.

 

[John McVicker]

@hbunting your problem is fairly simple & S/b fairly simple to remedy: Your ICS is not working for whatever reason.

Get it working & you will be good. It's either the wiring (2 wires) or the unit itself.

This has been mentioned, but just in case:
A) turn the key 'ON'
B) go to the green ICS
C) plug the 2 green parts together. If it clicks your good. It's a very audible click. If it doesn't click...
D) get a new (used) plug or fix the wires.

And yes, w/o a working ICS the engine will still start...but it won't idle. A bandaid would be to pull out the choke a bit while driving around town...push it in while on freeway.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

My thoughts and concerns:

1) Have you played w/ the idle mix on the carb?
2) potential fuel decel issue?
3) if you pull the choke knob a smidge will it keep running?
4) while it’s idling (as much as you can, possibly keep it running w/ slight pull of choke knob) in driveway, try spraying small steams of carb spray (NOT brake cleaner) around the mating surface of the manifolds to the head. If RPMs rise then your gasket is leaking.
5) brakes? Any issues? A leaking brake booster can pull a lot of vac and can potentially cause truck to stall.
I warn you that I am by no means an expert. Far smarter members on mud but those are where I’d seek answers first.
Felicity

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

had Pearl for 7 years now

Hey Heather I was doing some reading back on this thread... so you’ve been driving the truck semi worry free for 7 years! Where have you been?! But really, minimal maintenance till now? How many miles? Is it your daily driver? If not how often do you drive Pearl? Could be your just starting to really wear out the gasket from manifold to head and your now leaking hence why it won’t idle. That would be a big guess right off now that I read up on your history.
Again I prefix this w/ “I am no way an expert and someone more wise might have a better guess.”

 

[Gretsch]

Ok, so my fuse was good. Got the jumper wires set up and grounded it to the carb (pic below).

So just to be clear, no change if you swap wires around at the ICS plug? As @John McVicker stated you should, with the key on, hear an audible click when plugging the jumpers in and out. Since your two plugs don't fit together, you'll have to use the jumpers to test this. Could just take one of your jumpers off, and touch it to the pin in the plug and get the click the way you have things set up now. I can't really tell in the pic the colors of the ICS side wires, so can't really tell if the polarity is correct, but now that you have the ground bypassed to the carb, its easy to swap things around on the ICS side plug. Might try messing with it until the thing clicks. If you are not hearing it then as @John McVicker said its wiring somewhere or ICS itself. I have had the polarity reversed on my ICS and it ran like crap until I swapped jumpers around. It will most likely keep dying until you figure out how to get the click to happen. On my truck, I am usually troubleshooting this after driving it (cause I am pissed its not idling) and the ticks of the engine cooling down sometimes drown out the click of the ICS. With my crap hearing the two sound the same.

You also again might want to get a multi-meter on the truck side plug and make sure you are even getting +12 volts up to it. Ground does not matter if there is no positive voltage to the solenoid. If you are getting good ground and +12 at the truck side plug then you can focus on the actual ICS itself or the jumpers you made.

And did you mean that actually applying the brakes was killing the engine or just not having foot on the gas because you are braking?

 

[Infinity00]

So to summarize:
Original problem:
Won’t idle under normal conditions. If choke is pulled out, or give it some gas it will idle. After idling with choke on, it will continue idling with choke off, until giving it gas and letting off gas. When downshifting and braking or just braking it will die.
Additional information: If you have the gas pressed a little it's fine, but as soon as you let up on the pedal sometimes it will idle a little rough for a few seconds, but then shuts off.

Troubleshooting:
-checked vacuum hoses, found a loose one. Used sea foam
*Improved idling for a short while, then problem came back

-The original ICS was heard to click when disconnecting and connecting green connector

-Replaced with new one from cruiser corps
— jumpered the non mating connectors
No click and no improvement (not sure it’s hooked up correctly)

— manually grounded ICS to carb and jumpered hot side between connectors
Improved idle, idled for 5 minutes, test drove it and found lingering problems
* check for audible click when removing spade connector
*Unsure if polarity is correct, check with key on and a voltmeter or test light
*Lingering problems: idled for 5 minutes but still died while downshifting and braking at 1K rpm or braking for stop lights or when below 1K rpm. Idled fine after getting home and shutting it off for a little while

Tips from mud:
Try sea foam
Check points (noted its fully electronic so no points)
Perform carb clean using hand or cardboard over carb intake horn
Check or replace ics
Make sure oring is intact on ICS and avoid Chinese made ICS
Check ics wiring
Check egr or plug egr vacuum lines
Replace fuel filter and check fuel level in sight glass
Spray carb cleaner or use propane (unlit) to test for vacuum leaks around intake manifold and carb base
Check brake booster for leaks

 

[Infinity00]

After thinking about this a little more, and seeing what you’ve written and everyone’s ideas here’s what I’d do.

I’d suggest at this point make sure your ICS polarity is correct - it sounds like it is because now you can idle, but it’d be good to get confirmation. After confirming that, my guess is you have multiple problems. I’d plug the line going from your egr modulator to the egr next to see if that gets rid of one or more of your lingering problems. I’d also get a vacuum gauge on your ac idle up port and report the vacuum. Also, do a basic tune up if you haven’t in a while. Plugs, plug wires, dizzy cap and rotor and fuel filter. Set the timing, and now that it’s idling, set the idle speed to 750 or so. Make sure the gas is in the middle of the site glass when idling and some people suggest pulling over immediately when it dies and checking the site glass to see that the gas is halfway. Then if you feel inclined and after everything else, do the lean drop to ensure the carb isn’t running too lean.

Let us know what you have done from the list of mud tips.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Fyi as mentioned previously if wrenching is something you’ve not done much on the truck, feel free to PM and I can try to walk you through some of this so you don’t get overwhelmed UNLESS you have a friend w/ tools who’s willing to help you. If you bring the truck to a garage do some very thorough questioning that they are comfortable w/ a 30 year old carburated vehicle and be forewarned they will charge you a stupid amount. Best choice is to do this work yourself. None of its hard, it’s just overwhelming if you’ve never done any of it before.
Felicity

 

[DrDavidBanner]

Following this thread, my truck is doing the exact same thing. If i unplug the ics with the ignition on i do hear the click so i assume the ics is working properly. I recently replaced the carb gaskets, vacuum lines, and epoxy repaired the crack in the carb spacer. I just sprayed some starting fluid around the base of the carb and the engine speed picked up. Im guessing i have to replace that spacer, any chance those are avail somewhere? Any other thoughts? Possible crack in the intake manifold? Dont mean to hi-jack this thread but seems like i have the same or similar problem.

 

[John McVicker]

Best place to get the carb insulator is from City Racer LLC. I purchased one from him about a month ago. Right now his sight says Sold Out, but I would check anyway, he's always updating the site.

I thinks CruiserOutfiters carries it also.

 

[Infinity00]

My newish one wasn’t sealing when I was having a bunch of trouble last fall with it not running right after I pulled the carb - I ended up getting the upper and lower gasket from cruiser outfitters at a couple dollars a pop I think. Sealed it right up.

 

[morganism]

You can't just plug the EGR vac lines. If the EGR is stuck open on carbon rocks, it will just keep leaking air into the system, and cause the engine to die at idle, and usually stumble on take off too...

I would put your old ics back on, and clean the EGR valve before you start screwing up other parts of the system.

Oh, and you might consider the ECU cold solder prob too...

1984 FJ60 Engine Sputtering, Bucking

 

[hbunting]

Ok, so I double checked my wiring. Definitely hear a click when i attach my jumper wires. It will idle with both jumper wires connected to the ICS, but not great. Definitely better when it is grounded at the carb. Had a vac hose off as well (prob from taking the air filter cover off and on). Any problem with leaving it grounded to the carb? Seems to run fine now, but idling a little low, around 500-700 rpm. Seems like it will only occasionally die if the idle falls below 500. Idles a little higher after the engine has warmed up. I looked into increasing the idle, but seems like a little bit of a complicated process and want to make sure it's done right. At least it seems to be running 98% of the time lol.

 

[hbunting]

you’ve been driving the truck semi worry free for 7 years! Where have you been?! But really, minimal maintenance till now? ”

Yep! That's right! One of the many reasons she's a Pearl! I bought it with 87K miles, one owner, who I'm pretty sure kept her garaged all the time. Haven't had to do much other than just wear and tear stuff. Biggest thing I think I've had to do was replace the starter (and was the original starter). Gotta love these trucks! Now I have about 106K miles. Was my daily driver for the first couple of years. Now she just gets to hang out and look good.