If it is a jet, it will get worse going uphill quickly.
Check the EGR valve, it gets clogged up with carbon rocks, and won't close.
Check the EGR valve, it gets clogged up with carbon rocks, and won't close.
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Still sounds like ICS to me. The conditions you are describing are classic. @mwebfj60 has a good description of the operation when decelerating. My memory isn't good, but if you decel from a certain speed and the vacuum goes above a certain level, this will signal the ICS to shut down the idle circuit (correct me if I'm wrong other people). As I understand it, this is to prevent an over rich mixture. Anyway, I recommend grounding the white wire temporarily to see if this fixes your problem. @NeverGiveUpYota has a few good pictures of her setup that just uses 2 jumper wires. Disconnect the factory green ICS connector. The first wire has a ring terminal on one end that attaches to a ground point and a spade connector on the other end that plugs to the ground side (white wire) of the factory green connector coming off the ICS. Then a second jumper is made with a spade terminal on each end of the wire that jumpers the hot of both factory green connector that have been disconnected from each other. Makes more sense when you see a picture of it.
- Thread starter
- #23
Well, I finally got a chance to replace the ICS...got the new one installed fairly easily..went to connect it and the connection is different on the new one than the original. I think I got the first one from cruiser corps or something, and it says it fits my model, but obviously doesn't. Any ideas where to look? I've attached a pic of the connection from the part I removed from the truck.. Thanks!!
Just make a jumper for each. Don’t go by me but I believe the positive side of that plug is next to the little nub that sticks out on the green holder.
do u have a propane torch, or some spray carb cleaner. Spray around the base of the carb, and see if idle changes. The carb spacer can crack from heat over time, and the big vac line on drivers side base can too.
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- #26
What’s a jumper? The original one has the two metal pieces horizontal & the new one has one horizontal and one vertical.
I’ll get you a pix in a few.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
I think NeverGiveUpYota is referring to making jumper wires to connect the two ends of the plug. Something like this:
Used spade connectors I had similar issues to what you are describing. The grounds on these sometimes go bad over time (grounded at emissions computer on mine) so I did this to simply get a good ground for the ICS to open up to allow fuel to flow. Once I did this the truck now idles. But would prolly work for you to connect your ICS with the two different plugs. Hopefully you can tell which side is ground (lead going to carb body) in this pic.
Used spade connectors I had similar issues to what you are describing. The grounds on these sometimes go bad over time (grounded at emissions computer on mine) so I did this to simply get a good ground for the ICS to open up to allow fuel to flow. Once I did this the truck now idles. But would prolly work for you to connect your ICS with the two different plugs. Hopefully you can tell which side is ground (lead going to carb body) in this pic.
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- #29
Ok, I think I can do that. Couple questions ...and bear with me cuz they're probably dumb, but like i said my mechanic background is limited lol. Can i use the wires from the old solenoid to make the jumper wire, and if not, what gauge wire should I use? You think I'd be ok plugging both jumper wires into the ICS or do I need to ground one also?
Thanks for the help!! Y'all are great!
Thanks for the help!! Y'all are great!
Yes apologies it took me so long to respond. Very simple to make. My city racer requires only one but the one you have would need two. One for positive and one for negative. And I was right, the nub side of the green connector is positive. I used 18g.Ok, I think I can do that. Couple questions ...and bear with me cuz they're probably dumb, but like i said my mechanic background is limited lol. Can i use the wires from the old solenoid to make the jumper wire, and if not, what gauge wire should I use? You think I'd be ok plugging both jumper wires into the ICS or do I need to ground one also?
Thanks for the help!! Y'all are great!
Some will ground straight to carb body like in his photo above to bypass the emissions computer but that can have set backs. It’s the most wise to do it the way it should be but sometimes the emissions computers solder lead has cracks in it and it's faulty. Guessing your new in this world of a 60?
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- #32
Ok, Thanks! And I should be good using the old wiring?
Sorta new to the 60 world..Have had Pearl for 7 years now, but thankfully haven't had many problems. Typical wear and tear, but enjoy having a truck I can learn to tinker with, within reason of course! Probably wouldn't get very far without this forum!
Sorta new to the 60 world..Have had Pearl for 7 years now, but thankfully haven't had many problems. Typical wear and tear, but enjoy having a truck I can learn to tinker with, within reason of course! Probably wouldn't get very far without this forum!
Gretsch
SILVER Star
Man look at that nice shiny new carb. Pretty.
Yes but remember my engine is in parts!
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- #35
I tried making the jumper wires this weekend, but am not sure I have it connected correctly. How do I test my wiring? I tried re-arranging them a couple times, but still had the same problem; dies at idle. If the ICS wasn't connected would the engine still start? Should I try grounding one of the wires instead? Thanks!
Gretsch
SILVER Star
If you have two wires(which I think you do), one should be hot and one should be ground. How many jumpers did you make?
You should be able to, with the ignition key on and engine off, plug and un-plug the jumpers you made and hear a click sound. Thats the sound of the ICS opening and closing when powered/unpowered. Maybe try the ground side first. Should tell you if the ICS is getting power properly. If you don't hear a click then the ICS is prolly not working right. Its pretty unmistakable even with bad hearing like mine. If you want to ground to carb to see if you can get it to work you can refer to the pic I added earlier in this thread on how to do it. I think you should be able to put a multi-meter on the truck-side ICS plug terminals and see voltage to make sure power is getting that far. You can then hook up the jumpers and on the ICS side and test with a multi-meter to make sure you get power up to the leads anyway. All needs to be tested with the ignition in on position. But the click should tell you all you need to know.
I don't think the carb would get fuel enough to start the engine without the ICS working and open (energized). Maybe others can correct me on this. My experience has been so hit or miss with this ICS its hard to say. I know if I unplug mine truck won't start, but who knows here. Without the ICS open you are cutting fuel from getting into the carb, so starting the engine would be hard to do.
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Gretsch
SILVER Star
ICS itself. Up by the carb. Simple thing is to swap the wires around to check you have the right polarity. You could also just get a 12-volt test light with alligator clips, and use that to test the wiring. You could just put the clips on the terminals in the truck side of the plug and see if it lights up when you turn on the key. Then if that does not work you can take the ground side alligator clip on the test light and hook it to the carb and see if it lights up then (this effectively bypasses the ground at the emissions computer). If it does it would tell you that you are getting +12 volts on that ICS harness, but not getting back to ground to allow it to open. Then you could look at the Emissions computer on the driver side kick panel. The ICS is grounded in that computer (PCB board) and the leads where the harness plugs into it go bad so the ICS no longer can ground out and energize and thus open. Look back at my photo I posted to make sure you have the correct polarity(hot and ground).
Having said all that as a quick test you could just do the carb ground bypass trick in my photo. If it runs then you know its definitely electrical and can look at the ECU. If still no go then you could move on to something else. Funny enough I am chasing this same thing right now myself. Plan on re-flowing the solder joints on my ECU this weekend.
Having said all that as a quick test you could just do the carb ground bypass trick in my photo. If it runs then you know its definitely electrical and can look at the ECU. If still no go then you could move on to something else. Funny enough I am chasing this same thing right now myself. Plan on re-flowing the solder joints on my ECU this weekend.
What is your idle rpm? Had similar issue for a long time. Did replace the ICS. My idle was at about 600. I advanced timing by turning the dizzy cap a tad counter clockwise . I idle at about 700 now. Issue is gone.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
The only real wiring here are the jumpers you made. Should just jump from one plug to the other straight across. Only issue would be polarity which is just swapping sides. Perhaps you could post your wiring pics here so we could see what's been done and maybe why its not working.