FJ60 SOA...It's about time

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Joined
Oct 27, 2012
Threads
14
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217
Location
Provo, UT
Hey all, so I've owned a couple of Landcruisers in the past couple of years and I've always wanted to do a spring over. I just purchased this 1984 fj60 and the first thing I've done is tear into the suspension to begin the spring over. I plan on all the following:
-stock springs with add a leaf(Maybe)
-4.11's from a 62
-13 inch shock hoops with Bilstein 5125's
-knuckle rebuild
-35's on black steelies
Right now Kurt from Cruiser outfitters has my front axle and is in the process of cutting and turning it. I spent the last couple of days grinding off all the old mounts and boy did it take a long time!

-Here's my first question; My springs are in pretty good shape, they haven't been flattened like some people's springs-for now should I do an add a leaf? Or will that be too tall. I've been told I can take springs from other stock spring packs and it should be about the same height. Then there is also MAF's add a leafs. Or should I just not worry about that right now. I'd eventually like to get a bull bar and a rear tire carrier. Any insight would be great.

Pictures to come!
 
Awesome to hear of the Spring over. I love spring over Cruisers

Re the leafs , I recently sprung over my 70 and I used a set of factory springs that had been reset. Removed the extra leaf put in during resetting and they sit great. Small arc which is perfect. Best bet be to put what ya've got in and see how it sits then adjust to suit

Def post pics or it didn't happen
 
If you have it apart and plan on taking the truck out wheelin then I would suggest a set of 63" Chevy springs for the back. They flex so much better! You can get them cheap all day long and ruff stuff makes a great swap kit.

Good luck and Def post pics. Here's mine with soa, 35s, and black steelies.


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x2 on the 63" chevy springs.
They give a really nice ride in the back.

If you want to use stock springs I would try to get a full set, front and rear, from a 62. They have the inserts at the ends of the leaf packs to reduce friction.

Your ideas sound pretty similar to what I did to my truck before I blew the motor. Post up some pics.
 
I would use the aal either way. The stock springs wear out pretty quick in soa configuration.
 
Nice. In the process of swapping chev springs on my soa'd junk now.

D
 
As promised, here's some pictures...
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Next step is getting the axle back, put it back together, get everything painted, and get it mounted. How do I get the caster angle where it needs to be, or how do I know if its at the correct angle?
I think I am going to do the AAL's but they'll come from another cruiser so it should be less than an extra inch.
 
If you sent your axle to kurt for a cut and turn it should come back to you ready to go in . If he isn't welding new perches on then you can set your caster at around 4 degrees positive (bottom trunion forward of the top one ) then check where the pinion is pointing . If you are going to run a double cardan shaft in the front the pinion should point at the t-case output . If you are going to run a regular driveshaft then you can set your pinion a little tipped up from parallel to the t-case output as it will try to rotate down under load . All of that info is on this site , searching around a bit will teach you tons .
 
I would run a long AAL with the front stock springs, especially if you plan a bumper and a winch.

In the rear-I have the Chevy 63s 3/4 ton and they are far superior to Toyota springs. They carry more weight, flex much better, ride better and are an all around better spring.

What are you doing for steering?
 
I would run a long AAL with the front stock springs, especially if you plan a bumper and a winch.


In the rear-I have the Chevy 63s 3/4 ton and they are far superior to Toyota springs. They carry more weight, flex much better, ride better and are an all around better spring.

What are you doing for steering?

I do eventually plan on putting a bumper and winch up front so I'm definitely planning on AAL's. For the Chevy springs, what all would I need to do to convert to them? new spring hangers? Shackles? I want to get as little lift as possible hence my interest in using stock springs. And for steering I purchased a hysteer kit from Iron pig. I noticed with the kit that there is nowhere to mount the steering stabilizer. Do I just weld an eyelet to my tie-rod?
And thanks for the info and insight on the chevy springs. I've read a little more on them and I may just end up going that route.
 
I do eventually plan on putting a bumper and winch up front so I'm definitely planning on AAL's. For the Chevy springs, what all would I need to do to convert to them? new spring hangers? Shackles? I want to get as little lift as possible hence my interest in using stock springs. And for steering I purchased a hysteer kit from Iron pig. I noticed with the kit that there is nowhere to mount the steering stabilizer. Do I just weld an eyelet to my tie-rod?
And thanks for the info and insight on the chevy springs. I've read a little more on them and I may just end up going that route.

If anything, the Chevy springs are flatter that Land Cruiser springs.

You need to be creative with the stabilizer. It's not hard, and if you want, I can send you some pics.
 
looks like a promising thread...where in provo are you? i'm living there as well till the end of the semester
 
My old 3fE can barely go up steep grades fully loaded with 35's and 4.88's. I'm not sure about the manual transmissions but the 4.11 gearing may be limiting. Maybe some of the other SOA 60's can chime in.

I have great acceleration and can hold 75 mph on flat freeways with my 4.88's. Up hill is a different matter.

Certain FJ60's have to trim their trans crossmember as it gets in the way with the front driveshaft. Not sure which years had this issue.

I changed my rear driveshaft to CV joint as my SOA came out tall with AAL.
 
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If anything, the Chevy springs are flatter that Land Cruiser springs.

You need to be creative with the stabilizer. It's not hard, and if you want, I can send you some pics.

-Pictures would be great for the chevy springs. I was looking at the ruff stuff conversion kit. How long of shackles would you suggest. And I'm thinking I'll just make an eyelet and weld it on to my tie-rod for the stabilizer.

looks like a promising thread...where in provo are you? i'm living there as well till the end of the semester

-Yeah? That's awesome. I live south of campus at about fifth north and 4th east. I'm working hard to push through the end of the semester as well and once I'm done with finals, then I'll put a lot more time into the cruiser. I'm using a family member's shop in American Fork. Where do you live?

My old 3fE can barely go up steep grades fully loaded with 35's and 4.88's. I'm not sure about the manual transmissions but the 4.11 gearing may be limiting. Maybe some of the other SOA 60's can chime in.

I have great acceleration and can hold 75 mph on flat freeways with my 4.88's. Up hill is a different matter.

Certain FJ60's have to trim their trans crossmember as it gets in the way with the front driveshaft. Not sure which years had this issue.

I changed my rear driveshaft to CV joint as my SOA came out tall with AAL.

I was told that since mine is an 84 I won't need to do anything to the driveshafts or crossmember but I'll find out soon enough.
4.88's would be my first choice but since I'm getting a good deal on these 4.11's I couldn't justify spending a couple hundred more bucks on regearing. Someday I hope to do an engine swap. Possibly a vortec, maybe a 2h or 12-ht, and I've even considered a 4bt. So if and when that happens I'll get a little more serious about regearing. I'd also in the process like to do lockers but for now, this will have to do. And I'm not planning on pulling freeway speeds going up hill. I had another 60 a couple of years ago with the stock 3.70's and 32 inch tires and I could hardly hold 45 mph uphill on the freeway. Looks like I'll be spending more time in the slow lane. ;)
 
-Pictures would be great for the chevy springs. I was looking at the ruff stuff conversion kit. How long of shackles would you suggest. And I'm thinking I'll just make an eyelet and weld it on to my tie-rod for the stabilizer.
)

Don't weld the islet directly. Then every time you need to adjust things, the islet will be in the wrong place.

I used weldable shaft collars that I got from McMasterCarr, then welded the islet from the OEM tie rod to that. It's worked perfectly and looks clean.
 
Hey Drew, how ffar forward did u move the front spring perch when u did your 63's? Did some rough measuring and it looks to be about 10"? I'm measuring from the leaf spring center pin to the front leaf mount.

D
 
Hey Drew, how ffar forward did u move the front spring perch when u did your 63's? Did some rough measuring and it looks to be about 10"? I'm measuring from the leaf spring center pin to the front leaf mount.

D

It was about 10 inches. Some guys move the axle back an inch or so, I just left mine in the original position.
 

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