I don't know what happened but I put out a post weeks ago about finding a good set of FJ60 mud flaps. Someone sent me a great response about refurbishing my existing flaps. It was a great post with information on how to clean them using steel wool and pictures of the process, even a picture of his son helping by painting the "Land Cruiser" in white with a paint pen. I have repeatedly tried to pull up the post and it's gone. Whoever sent that post if you can send it to me again I would greatly appreciate it! I will take a picture of it so if it disappears I will have it saved on my phone and can start getting them cleaned up. Thank you in advance!
FJ60 Mud Flaps - Please respond again! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Alex Cooke
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There are lots of mud flap threads.
Although this link isn't the one you mentioned, it has some good info.
Re-painting Rear Mudflaps lettering
Although this link isn't the one you mentioned, it has some good info.
Re-painting Rear Mudflaps lettering
georgebj60
SILVER Star
I saw that post. It was @CaptClose that mentioned how to refurbish the mud flaps.
Maybe he'll chime in again here...
Maybe he'll chime in again here...
CaptClose
SILVER Star
I’m not sure what happened to that post, the thread no longer exists. Anyway, I’ve done a few sets of these now. Here’s most of what you need...
The first step is to scrub off all the dirt and grime with regular soap and water. I used a nylon brush and a garden hose.
Next, you’ll want to wire wheel the metal to polish it up. I actually used a Dremel with a 120 grit flapper disc I think. It was quick and easy. When you finish, paint the metal or spray paint with clear to help fight against future corrosion
Then you start exfoliating the rubber by using grade .000 steel wool and simple green. You’re kind of wet sanding here with the steel wool. You could probably use any cleaner, or even water. I just had simple green handy.
The grade .000 steel wool will scrub away the old dry rubber and expose the fresh new layer of rubber that was below. Follow up by using grade .0000 steel wool and simple green to polish the rubber.
Finally, I used a white Krylon paint pen available at most auto parts stores. They also have tire paint pens that may work better, but I haven’t tried them yet so I can’t be sure.
You’ll need to use at least two coats of white paint on the letters, and I found that dabbing the paint on workoked batter than using pen strokes. For any stray paint or drips, I used an exacto knife to clean up the edges of the lettering.
Painting is the most time consuming and tedious part of the entire process, that’s why i had the kid help me haha. It isn’t that bad though. When you finish, the end result is as good as new. In this next picture, you’ll notice the metal isn’t polished. I learned after the first set, to polish the metal first. That way you don’t accidentally scuff up your freshly exfoliated rubber.
And finally... back on the Cruiser
I hope that helps. Post up your results.
Good luck!
The first step is to scrub off all the dirt and grime with regular soap and water. I used a nylon brush and a garden hose.
Next, you’ll want to wire wheel the metal to polish it up. I actually used a Dremel with a 120 grit flapper disc I think. It was quick and easy. When you finish, paint the metal or spray paint with clear to help fight against future corrosion
Then you start exfoliating the rubber by using grade .000 steel wool and simple green. You’re kind of wet sanding here with the steel wool. You could probably use any cleaner, or even water. I just had simple green handy.
The grade .000 steel wool will scrub away the old dry rubber and expose the fresh new layer of rubber that was below. Follow up by using grade .0000 steel wool and simple green to polish the rubber.
Finally, I used a white Krylon paint pen available at most auto parts stores. They also have tire paint pens that may work better, but I haven’t tried them yet so I can’t be sure.
You’ll need to use at least two coats of white paint on the letters, and I found that dabbing the paint on workoked batter than using pen strokes. For any stray paint or drips, I used an exacto knife to clean up the edges of the lettering.
Painting is the most time consuming and tedious part of the entire process, that’s why i had the kid help me haha. It isn’t that bad though. When you finish, the end result is as good as new. In this next picture, you’ll notice the metal isn’t polished. I learned after the first set, to polish the metal first. That way you don’t accidentally scuff up your freshly exfoliated rubber.
And finally... back on the Cruiser
I hope that helps. Post up your results.
Good luck!
CaptClose
SILVER Star
Here’s a before/after
Again, there’s no rubber dressing, tire shine, back to black, etc.. used on this flap. That’s just fresh rubber. It’s been several months and thousands of miles through the west and wheeling in Ouray, Colorado and they still look great.
Again, there’s no rubber dressing, tire shine, back to black, etc.. used on this flap. That’s just fresh rubber. It’s been several months and thousands of miles through the west and wheeling in Ouray, Colorado and they still look great.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thank you to everyone who responded and thanks to georgebj60 for remembering it was captclose!
Interesting in the change of script. More slanted, and the "R" extends below the rest of the letters on the refurbished flap.
CaptClose
SILVER Star
No critic--Nice Job!
I just didn't know there were different styles. Never looked that close
FWIW, here is a bit of restoration that I've not seen here on mudflaps. Mine are in pretty good condition, but it was time for some maintenance. As you can see, the rubber coating has eroded/worn off the metal. A good clean up, then brushed Flex-Seal. This is the first coat.
I've not seen steel wool used before. Seems like a good idea on extreme cases. I don't think mine need it.
I repainted the white lettering about 23 years ago. You can see that it's still hanging on reasonably well. The technique I used was to kind of sculpt an applicator out of dense open-cell foam rubber; not like foam brushes. A denser foam is needed. My approach was to use the letters' relief to my advantage. Using oil base white paint, I "loaded" the foam very lightly. I lightly dabbed each letter to create a very light coat. The lightness of the coat, the density of the foam, and its flat plane prevented going over the edge of the raised letter. Obviously, it takes multiple coats. It's time consuming, but precise. When did we ever punch the labor clock on our LC work?
I've not seen steel wool used before. Seems like a good idea on extreme cases. I don't think mine need it.
I repainted the white lettering about 23 years ago. You can see that it's still hanging on reasonably well. The technique I used was to kind of sculpt an applicator out of dense open-cell foam rubber; not like foam brushes. A denser foam is needed. My approach was to use the letters' relief to my advantage. Using oil base white paint, I "loaded" the foam very lightly. I lightly dabbed each letter to create a very light coat. The lightness of the coat, the density of the foam, and its flat plane prevented going over the edge of the raised letter. Obviously, it takes multiple coats. It's time consuming, but precise. When did we ever punch the labor clock on our LC work?
86aggie
SILVER Star
I used a paint pen from the local craft store, if you can't find one at the LAPS. I also have used the paint pens for touching up the black, for example, on the various emblems - 'Toyota Land Cruiser' on the rear sides, and '4WD' on the tailgate, as well as the black around 'Toyota' on the chrome piece above the tailgate license plate. The paint pens at the craft store come in different sizes, so you can get into the tight spots with them.
LCnAZ, I tried something similar, and had an issue with the two screws going thru the edge pulling thru, so I tried using a fender washer, and that pulled thru. I have it off the LC now, waiting for me to come up with a solution. Seeing your picture made me think, what about embedding a washer between layers/coats of the flex seal?
LCnAZ, I tried something similar, and had an issue with the two screws going thru the edge pulling thru, so I tried using a fender washer, and that pulled thru. I have it off the LC now, waiting for me to come up with a solution. Seeing your picture made me think, what about embedding a washer between layers/coats of the flex seal?
It's worth a try on the washer and Flex-Seal. The only downside to that product is that it really takes 18 hours or longer to cure.
I'm going to try painting letters today with a small foam brush. I'll try to post results.
Oops. In the intervening 23 years or so since I last painted the letters, I forgot an important factor. The paint should be flat. That's because flat will hide the surface imperfections that doing it by hand creates. With satin paint, they are very visible. Otherwise, it was the tedious 2-hour job to do it precisely. I'll just have to put a flat final coat on this one, and use only flat on the second. Second and final coat of Flex-Seal also went on this afternoon.
No wonder I took 23 years between paintings.
No wonder I took 23 years between paintings.
Progress.
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86aggie
SILVER Star
Looks good - like you said - time/hours can't be an issue for us
If you want really good paint, look for around at commercial auto paint stores for "OneShot Sign Paint!"
It is the best, and what many good pin strippers use. It sticks, lays down smooth, and lasts forever. A 1/2 pint costs around $20-30.00
It is the best, and what many good pin strippers use. It sticks, lays down smooth, and lasts forever. A 1/2 pint costs around $20-30.00
Thanks for the writeup! Now I am motivated to restore mine, especially since you cannot buy OEM any longer.
CaptClose is the master of mudflaps. I need to dig mine out and send him a pic to see if he thinks the are worth saving/saveable.
