Builds fj60 going to EV FJ45 (3 Viewers)

[workingdog]

So, the over temp error turned out to be a bad pin in the connector. I hate those little molex f***ers. So, fixed that. And then there's another 'system error' on motor 1. So, switch to motor 2, and it's got an over temp too. Same pin bad on the same connector. So, fixed that. And then we have canbus errors. Fixed a few of those and finally got 2 green lights on the Hyper 9's. Hit the throttle and a plethora of errors - all pointing to canbus. Check all the connections, redid the one that seemed at all sketchy. But still - nothing but errors. This s*** drives me nuts.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, continuing saga. Tracked down that the 120 ohm resistor that's supposed to be in the Orion battery management system is dead. No idea how or why. So, put a resistor in the connector hoping that will suffice. And the Orion battery management system is still communicating on canbus like crazy. But the Hyper 9's still die as soon as I hit the throttle. I assume it's a canbus issue, but the Hyper 9 errors are very hard to interpret.

Who understands electrical engineering enough to come over and help?

 

[workingdog]

I'm ignoring the canbus problem waiting for inspiration and moving forward the rest of the drive train. Pedals are installed, clutch master and slave are installed and bled, transmission is filled, transmission shift tower arrived and is installed (still trying to figure out how to use my Hurst shifter), Atlas is filled (doesn't seem like enough, but it's the amount called for). I used the Advance Adapters bracket to mount the clutch slave cylinder - but I am very concerned about the amount of flex, the first bit of pedal travel is just flexing the bracket. What do you think? I could put a little gusset in the inside corner that would stiffen it up some, but there's nothing I can do about the ears. I'm tempted to build something just inherently stiffer.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I'm ignoring the canbus problem waiting for inspiration and moving forward the rest of the drive train. Pedals are installed, clutch master and slave are installed and bled, transmission is filled, transmission shift tower arrived and is installed (still trying to figure out how to use my Hurst shifter), Atlas is filled (doesn't seem like enough, but it's the amount called for). I used the Advance Adapters bracket to mount the clutch slave cylinder - but I am very concerned about the amount of flex, the first bit of pedal travel is just flexing the bracket. What do you think? I could put a little gusset in the inside corner that would stiffen it up some, but there's nothing I can do about the ears. I'm tempted to build something just inherently stiffer.

Mine did the same thing. I gusseted it.

 

[Chuckha62]

Agree. WAY too much flex.

 

[workingdog]

So, WTF with them selling that as is. That's BS. So, now I've got to take it off, after it's filled and bled, to put at least a gusset on it. Grrrrrr.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, nothing is easy. I has assumed that since I'm running a driver's drop, I'd run the Atlas cable shifter to get the twin sticks over on the passenger side - and did a bunch of work on the tunnel to accommodate that. But, putting the shift bracket on the Atlas today, it seem pretty clear that there's no where for the rear output cable to fit with the NV4500. is there? Do I have to use the basic shifters right up against my seat?

 

[cruisermatt]

Advance adapters sucks

 

[Honger]

FWIW... I've been following faithfully. For all the challenges you are encountering I'm lurking and rooting for you. Can't wait to see this moving under electrical power!

 

[workingdog]

I appreciate the support.

 

[archie73]

My AA clutch adapter(SBC to sm465) is pretty wonky too. The holes didn’t line up very well and the shaft alignment is bad. That being said- it works well. I’m gonna fix it soon or later. Good luck on the batteries- we all want this one to work.

 

[workingdog]

I'm really stuck on this canbus issue. I've been over everything can't figure it out. I've posted on DIYElectricCar - which is kind of like pirate but every is a really smart geek who thinks everyone else is a total idiot. So far, lots of suggestions, but none of them useful. Last couple of times I ran into this, it kind of fixed itself. This time seems to be more intractable.

 

[workingdog]

Got some vague but at least useful advice on DIYElectricCar and I moved all the canbus out of the controller box and away from the high voltage. And lo and behold - they spin!!! The video may make you a little nauseous, but I go from pedal to clutch spinning to output on the Atlas spinning - very slowly (because is the only gear I could get the atlas into). And back to pedal. There's a wobble in the drivetrain, that wasn't in the electric motors, so the fly wheel may not be perfectly on there.

However, I cannot get excited because the small fire in my 40 screwed up a lot of stuff (starter lead, some of the tail harness, O2 sensor pigtail, crank sensor connector), and even though I spent the day fixing everything, now it won't start.

 

[workingdog]

Been working on a lot o details. Got the shifter on the NV4500, the shifter on the Atlas (after returning the cable shifter, I still ended up with the wrong twin stick), got a seat installed that should let me run around a little. I've been doing welding clean up. I've bought some 2.5" schedule 40 PVC pipe that I'm hoping to use as spacers in the coilovers so I can run with one spring at a fairly normal ride height. If all goes well, and the driveline come back this week repaired, we will drive the mockup out of the garage and then right back in.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, I'm soliciting input. The aluminum Aqualu body is about as much of an oil can as you can get.

I'm not going to get the entire thing painted, that's not the aesthetic I'm going for. But before I put the cab on the frame, I want to do as much as possible to the cab while it's off as I can. However, I'm not sure what I should do. My primary concern is dampening sound inside the cab. The motor generates little heat, so there's not much need for heat protection. Right now, I'm thinking to spray or stick on sound deadening to the underside of the cab, including the underside of the tunnel. And, I'm thinking of putting sound deadening on the engine side of the fire wall, which would mean just taking it from the under side of the floor right up to the cowl.

However, what I'm less sure is what to do on the inside. I know from experience that these things are awful with sound. My 40 is actually quieter with the sides off than on because of the way these metal boxes trap sound. Is it worth putting sound deadening on the inside of the cab in the back between the vertical ribs? Is so, what goes over that deadening material because most deadening material - liquid or stick on - expects to be covered with something. Is it worth putting bed liner down on the floor? And if so, how far up the firewall should it extend. I think I'll spray the underside of the top with sound deadening with bed-liner over the top of that. Did that in my 40 with some success.

Thoughts?

Eventually, when I feel like it, I might get the exterior wrapped with something crazy.

 

[whitey45]

Back when i built my 45, I bedlined the whole bottom, and the entire inside right up to the firewall. This was 20 years ago and the spray on bedliner ( professionally sprayed) was 1/4 thick. It was bulletproof and worked very well to dampen the sound of a healthy big block chevy!

 

[DangerNoodle]

I would 100% bedline the interior floor. Not worrying about the paint is so nice. I did the floors up to the vertical section on the firewall, hump, and basically anywhere feet can touch. I also lizard skinned the bottom of my tub and firewall. It really quieted everything down, and I would recomend it. I did both sound and heat lizard skin, but you could just do sound if you wanted.

 

[samc2447]

Spray Lizard Skin sound control then coat with bed liner. The Lizard Skin works very well and will get rid of the tin can sound inside.

 

[workingdog]

Got the steering wheel on and the steering shafts all connected up and ... the set screw at the steering box end was hitting the cross member. Damn. So, cut the steering box off, move it up 1", and that problem is solved, although we may have to make a custom pitman arm at some point, but that was always the case.

However, when I turned the wheel, the steering shafts have a real issue. Feels like bad binding, but given my angles, I didn't think there would be any binding. Anytime you see the rotation stop, that's a binding point. Thoughts?

 

[DangerNoodle]

Got the steering wheel on and the steering shafts all connected up and ... the set screw at the steering box end was hitting the cross member. Damn. So, cut the steering box off, move it up 1", and that problem is solved, although we may have to make a custom pitman arm at some point, but that was always the case.

However, when I turned the wheel, the steering shafts have a real issue. Feels like bad binding, but given my angles, I didn't think there would be any binding. Anytime you see the rotation stop, that's a binding point. Thoughts?

Do you have something (bearing, bush, poly, etc.) supporting the inner steering column shaft? It kinda looks like that is dragging in the column to me.