Dumb question, but Is the flywheel neutrally balanced?
Also, how is it mounted? You sure it’s centered?
Also, how is it mounted? You sure it’s centered?
Builds fj60 going to EV FJ45 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter workingdog
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whitey45
SILVER Star
Chevy has two different flywheels, internally balanced and external. You probably want an internal( neutral balance)
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Is everything tight??
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #384
Yes, it's tight, but I assume that the flywheel was just not balanced. If I'm going to take it apart, which I have to, I'm going to replace it with something much lighter, so I'm trying to track that down.
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #385
Okay, need some help. I've got the cooling system mostly plumbed. It runs from the batteries in the back to the motor controllers in front, to the radiator. I'm using a motorcycle or ATV radiator with fan. I have this over flow/fill bottle, but when I went to mount it, I couldn't think of how high it needed to be. I'm assuming I want flow from the batteries through the controllers and into the top of the radiator - so that I'm not pumping/pushing up through the radiator. So, where does the overflow/fill go? I was thinking on the bottom/out of the radiator, but won't the contents of the radiator just flow down and over fill the bottle?
workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #386
Also, geometry question. I got a straight pitman with the box, but am going to go to a drop pitman - the question I need help with is - how much? I'm thinking 2 to 3". The tub on top of the pitman is the front sway bar. Here's the pictures.
Overflow needs to be the highest point in the system. Doesn't need to be in the direct flow path, but it does need to be the highest part of the system.
Think of it as part expansion tank, part bleed screw, so it needs to be sized to the system (or larger) and high enough to bleed the system.
Think of it as part expansion tank, part bleed screw, so it needs to be sized to the system (or larger) and high enough to bleed the system.
workingdog
GOLD Star
workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #389
Yet another question. Can anyone help me spec a lightweight flywheel and clutch. I can't get the guys at Ram to answer the phone. I know the clutch and flywheel have to be bought as a matching pair.
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #390
Okay, got the entire brake and cooling system plumbed. A few minor things need to be reorganized around the cooling plumbing, but it doesn't leak. Have to route in and out of the controller box and to each controller makes for a crazy route, but it seems happy. Takes all of a gallon of coolant.
And I was gnashing my teeth - woe is me - I can't bleed the brakes because I'm alone. So, I just opened the bleed valves using a coke bottle and just let them drain, and just gravity was enough to get 90% of the air out. And the brakes work great - amazing. Tomorrow, I'm going to take it out for a spin. The only issue is the vacuum pump that provides vacuum to the master cylinder is annoying loud.
But, this is a major milestone. It moves, it steers, it stops.
I have the new lightweight flywheel (balanced) here, but it shipped without the friction plate, and that won't get here until next week. That's the final major change to the system before I start (gently) beating on it a bit to try to flush out the birthing issues.
So, here's the pool:
How far will I get before I have to walk back and get the tractor and to it home
1. 50 yds - half way out the driveway.
2. 100 yds - to the street.
3. 200 yards - 100 yards up the street.
bonus pool - yes or no: Will I fall off while driving it.
And I was gnashing my teeth - woe is me - I can't bleed the brakes because I'm alone. So, I just opened the bleed valves using a coke bottle and just let them drain, and just gravity was enough to get 90% of the air out. And the brakes work great - amazing. Tomorrow, I'm going to take it out for a spin. The only issue is the vacuum pump that provides vacuum to the master cylinder is annoying loud.
But, this is a major milestone. It moves, it steers, it stops.
I have the new lightweight flywheel (balanced) here, but it shipped without the friction plate, and that won't get here until next week. That's the final major change to the system before I start (gently) beating on it a bit to try to flush out the birthing issues.
So, here's the pool:
How far will I get before I have to walk back and get the tractor and to it home
1. 50 yds - half way out the driveway.
2. 100 yds - to the street.
3. 200 yards - 100 yards up the street.
bonus pool - yes or no: Will I fall off while driving it.
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workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #393
PMC xmas party is no fun without my son- Porter
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #394
Okay, first drive out and back, didn't have to drag it home, did not fall out.
Things I noticed.
the throttle is totally wrong. You basically push it straight down and I didn't build a platform for my heel. The pedal expects a vertical firewall, mines at 45. So, it's going to take some work to figure out how to make it work.
It surges, you can see it in the video. Not sure what that that is.
When I pulled into the garage, it wanted to keep going. You can see the when I stop it load up and release. Going to have to figure that out.
Things I noticed.
the throttle is totally wrong. You basically push it straight down and I didn't build a platform for my heel. The pedal expects a vertical firewall, mines at 45. So, it's going to take some work to figure out how to make it work.
It surges, you can see it in the video. Not sure what that that is.
When I pulled into the garage, it wanted to keep going. You can see the when I stop it load up and release. Going to have to figure that out.
Tank5
SILVER Star
Congratulations on your first test drive!! I have been watching you pick through all the challenges presented in getting it goin to this point. After all of that I expected your grin would have been bigger on the first test drive but maybe you were just focusing on not falling off or hitting anything. Good job, I look forward to seeing it come together.
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #396
Okay, so now that it's all together and rolling and I can kind of reflect on where I am - and I'm watching KOH in the garage as I fix the gas pedal - I'm suddenly wondering why I have the two motors tied together and a traditional transmission and transfer case. Now that I can see the entire thing and I've been through it, it's now obvious that it would have been a lot easier to separate the motors so one was driving the rear driveshaft and one driving the front driveshaft. All I'd need is a way to adapt the flywheel hub on the back of the Hyper 9 to the driveshaft flange or u-joint flange.
Since the master motor (driving the rear) controls the slave motor (front) using canbus, they don't have to be attached or even close, and the slave will do exactly what the master is doing. For 2 wheel drive or cruising, just shut off the front motor and use the rear - plenty of juice. And for 4 wheel drive, or more power, turn the front motor on.
It would save a bunch of weight and reduce complexity - and I think it would package okay. The rear motor would sit more less where the transfer case is now - and it's actually smaller. The challenge is that I'd need a center drop front axle. I'm not sure I can package the front motor under the cab for the existing driver's drop. Also, it would empty the engine bay for more batteries.
The rationalization for the manual transmission was an emergency cut out. But, I'm not really buying that. It's pretty easy to put a remote disconnect for the high voltage like that would turn the thing off.
So, that's going to eat at me now. Is it going to drive me so crazy that I should just go ahead and do it now while it's easy. And what else would have to change up front? Interestingly, as I think about it. center drop front would mean I could go fully triangulated 4 link in front and loose the panhard.
what I don't know, is will I miss the gears? Especially, when wheeling, will I miss low range? I need to think about that.
Since the master motor (driving the rear) controls the slave motor (front) using canbus, they don't have to be attached or even close, and the slave will do exactly what the master is doing. For 2 wheel drive or cruising, just shut off the front motor and use the rear - plenty of juice. And for 4 wheel drive, or more power, turn the front motor on.
It would save a bunch of weight and reduce complexity - and I think it would package okay. The rear motor would sit more less where the transfer case is now - and it's actually smaller. The challenge is that I'd need a center drop front axle. I'm not sure I can package the front motor under the cab for the existing driver's drop. Also, it would empty the engine bay for more batteries.
The rationalization for the manual transmission was an emergency cut out. But, I'm not really buying that. It's pretty easy to put a remote disconnect for the high voltage like that would turn the thing off.
So, that's going to eat at me now. Is it going to drive me so crazy that I should just go ahead and do it now while it's easy. And what else would have to change up front? Interestingly, as I think about it. center drop front would mean I could go fully triangulated 4 link in front and loose the panhard.
what I don't know, is will I miss the gears? Especially, when wheeling, will I miss low range? I need to think about that.
If you went full hydro, yes. Would still have that pesky bump steer issue.
If money isn’t an issue I would love to see you go down this road. Could you package a doubler style transfer onto each motor for low range?
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #400
I'm not sure I need low range with these motors. I need some time with it.
Took it out again today. It's diving and surging braking going forward (but not in reverse). I think that means my anti-dive geometry is wrong. And looking at it, I need the rear link to be steeper (to move the anti-dive point into the car - right now it's probably behind the car). And the only way I can think of to do that is to shorten the link - which I can do.
Here are the links, axle is 1.5" below ride height, so the are usually shallower. But they are very parallel. If I move the lower link forward on the frame, it will steepen it. Might also have to move the upper forward along the inside of the frame too. This is where I get hazy.
Hard reverse stop and I ripped the passenger front lower link bracket off the axle. I guess I didn't reinforce it enough. I haven't fully welded it all yet on the assumption things are going to have to move, but I'm going to have to do the front link mounts a lot better.
Took it out again today. It's diving and surging braking going forward (but not in reverse). I think that means my anti-dive geometry is wrong. And looking at it, I need the rear link to be steeper (to move the anti-dive point into the car - right now it's probably behind the car). And the only way I can think of to do that is to shorten the link - which I can do.
Here are the links, axle is 1.5" below ride height, so the are usually shallower. But they are very parallel. If I move the lower link forward on the frame, it will steepen it. Might also have to move the upper forward along the inside of the frame too. This is where I get hazy.
Hard reverse stop and I ripped the passenger front lower link bracket off the axle. I guess I didn't reinforce it enough. I haven't fully welded it all yet on the assumption things are going to have to move, but I'm going to have to do the front link mounts a lot better.
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