FJ55 reproduction door panels

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The panel material I use is called water proof panels by my auto trim supplier. It would be safe to say water resistant. I have never soaked these in water to determine that they are water proof. I would think the vapor barrier would/could be optional.

Using a sharp razor knife scoring the panel approx 3 times will cut thru. I would go easy on the third score so it would not cut the vinyl.

I should have rear cargo panels tomorrow and a set shipped to Tucker for fitment by Saturday.

Steve

PabloCruise said:
Thanks Tucker!

Did you try running the old clips in the new panels?

Sounds like fit is good enough for me!

Does anyone know how difficult it would be to cut in the ash trays? I frequently transport 8 husky people in my Land Cruiser, at 80 MPH, and they all like to smoke...

Just kidding.

Now wondering how much a set with cargo panels for the tall filler neck would be?

I was thinking that the kick panels may have been black, as they would get kicked?
Click to expand...
 
Total Price Out side of eBay will be $385 for a set of interior panels to include Kick Panels....8 Panels total.

eBay price will be $425 for 8 panels...(due to seller fees).

If anyone else is interested please send me a pm request.

Steve
 
Last edited:
Steve,

Good to know about the backing material. Considering the door cavity isn't impervious to water, will probably install a vapor retardant (heavy visqueen and 3M black rope caulk) to prevent from accumulating in cab.

Learned on the 80 that visqueen is a much better alternative to even the OE plastic, since they were installed in a factory, not in the driveway with the door hung.

I sent the actual filler neck cover (??) for my 76, along with the panels, but don't think I was descriptive in the package.

The filler neck cover will need some love, after which, it can return with my 76 panel order.

Does anyone have a complete firewall blanket(??)?

Edited: If I'm not on the list for all eight panels, would like to be added.
 
a1500ram said:
Add $75 for the cargo panels and I wl throw in the kick panels for the 7 members who have expressed interest in these. Total $350 for 8 panels with retainers.

Anyone else who shows interest in these will be $385 for 8 panels. This is the cost outside of eBay.

eBay price will be $425 for 8 panels...(due to seller fees).

If anyone else is interested please send me a pm request.

Steve
Click to expand...

Thanks for this reply, and the one above Steve!

Am I one of the 7? Just want to check...

I'll be excited to see the cargo panel review by Tucker!
 
Delancy said:
Steve,

Good to know about the backing material. Considering the door cavity isn't impervious to water, will probably install a vapor retardant (heavy visqueen and 3M black rope caulk) to prevent from accumulating in cab.

Learned on the 80 that visqueen is a much better alternative to even the OE plastic, since they were installed in a factory, not in the driveway with the door hung.

I sent the actual filler neck cover (??) for my 76, along with the panels, but don't think I was descriptive in the package.

The filler neck cover will need some love, after which, it can return with my 76 panel order.

Does anyone have a complete firewall blanket(??)?

Edited: If I'm not on the list for all eight panels, would like to be added.
Click to expand...

Where do you source your visqueen? I too would like to run a barrier btwn door and panel.
 
The initial Seven members are as follows but not necessarily in this order....

Delancy

Nuclearbeef

DingoFJ55

Pablocruise

1973Guppie

NikP

SloCruiser
 
a1500ram said:
Add $75 for the cargo panels and I wl throw in the kick panels for the 7 members who have expressed interest in these. Total $350 for 8 panels with retainers.

Anyone else who shows interest in these will be $385 for 8 panels. This is the cost outside of eBay.

eBay price will be $425 for 8 panels...(due to seller fees).

If anyone else is interested please send me a pm request.

Steve
Click to expand...

who are the 7? :confused: i've been active in the thread outside of saying yes i want some, but i do want a set.

never mind. saw it after i posted
 
PabloCruise said:
Where do you source your visqueen? I too would like to run a barrier btwn door and panel.
Click to expand...

1973Guppie said:
If u r able to include a panel barrier kit with the glue that would be a plus, for an additional fee of course
Click to expand...

If I'm stepping on toes, then feel free to delete, but to keep this tech....I'd be all over all inclusive and by no means trying to save a buck.

I used a 10mil visqueen that can be sourced for $20 at any home improvement store, and a 3M black caulk on a rope that Lou suggested, that can source at any body shop supply.

Choose the visqueen sheets after failing at installing the 80 OE vapor barriers, simply because there wasn't enough slack in the OE product, so cut my own.

The 55 would be a lot easier, since there's only a single door handle to accommodate. Unbolt it, slide a much larger visqueen sheet behind, stretch, then press against the 3M product. Trim closely around edge of sealant.

It would've been a much simpler process, but I also chose to do on a +100 degree day, and the black caulk is hard to work with when hot. I even took Lou's advice and refrigerated before each panel, and it was still sticky.

Nothing like black caulk on your fingers when sweating profusely......

Only pic I have and of the first. Progressively got better.



image-480164658.webp


One thing to ensure before sealing it up, is that the drains are clear and that your done inside the door.

I get the pleasure of doing it all again on the 80, when it goes to paint.

image-480164658.webp
 
Why not cover them with factory vinyl?

Just a thought for those who want dead nuts factory?

Shane
 
For vapor barriers I use and I'm not kidding "Construction Clean Up" garbage bags from Home Depot. Use it on my restorations and my personal 100.

One bag does both doors.

Plus, they're the best shop bags around.

Shane
 
AATLAS1X said:
Why not cover them with factory vinyl?

Just a thought for those who want dead nuts factory?
Click to expand...

That's the plan on the 72.

76 is too big a PITA to return considering what's lacking on the seat pedestals, which are the main body of the interior.

Did you find the thicker mil bags in clear at Home Depot?

4 mil was as thick as I found, a lawn and leaf bag, in clear, but visqueen is visqueen and the bag size would be a lot easier to work with than the roll.
 
a1500ram said:
Shane,

Because the factory vinyl is a non backing plastic that is heat pressed into place on the panels creating the design layout.

Steve
Click to expand...

Is this not what these are? A little race track of square brass wire pressed to the vinyl to give it the design? Just as oe.
 
close to OE is fine with me, I am not doing any perfect restorations. I would like the panels to be near the same color as the seats OE so when I go to get the seats redone things somewhat match up. I believe the door panels were a darker color originally? shane you have any info on this?
 
Delancy said:
If I'm stepping on toes, then feel free to delete, but to keep this tech....I'd be all over all inclusive and by no means trying to save a buck.

I used a 10mil visqueen that can be sourced for $20 at any home improvement store, and a 3M black caulk on a rope that Lou suggested, that can source at any body shop supply.

Choose the visqueen sheets after failing at installing the 80 OE vapor barriers, simply because there wasn't enough slack in the OE product, so cut my own.

The 55 would be a lot easier, since there's only a single door handle to accommodate. Unbolt it, slide a much larger visqueen sheet behind, stretch, then press against the 3M product. Trim closely around edge of sealant.

It would've been a much simpler process, but I also chose to do on a +100 degree day, and the black caulk is hard to work with when hot. I even took Lou's advice and refrigerated before each panel, and it was still sticky.

Nothing like black caulk on your fingers when sweating profusely......

Only pic I have and of the first. Progressively got better.



View attachment 804898


One thing to ensure before sealing it up, is that the drains are clear and that your done inside the door.

I get the pleasure of doing it all again on the 80, when it goes to paint.
Click to expand...

FWIW, you may want to relieve the plastic where the window reg goes thru and where the door pull screws go thru...I had trouble where these places got twisted around the device/fasteners and gave me hell removing them again...
 
1973Guppie said:
close to OE is fine with me, I am not doing any perfect restorations. I would like the panels to be near the same color as the seats OE so when I go to get the seats redone things somewhat match up. I believe the door panels were a darker color originally? shane you have any info on this?
Click to expand...

They are pewter vinyl.

Depends on geographic location as UV plays hell and darkens the material up.

image-4155327307.webp


image-3606289040.webp


image-1717195257.webp
 
No. I work with a 3/16" padding adhered to the panel. I lay the design out, the cut out the design then I glue the vinyl not heat press into the channels.



AATLAS1X said:
Is this not what these are? A little race track of square brass wire pressed to the vinyl to give it the design? Just as oe.
Click to expand...
 
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