Fj40 rear disc conversion (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter godzilla
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Rear discs
It is cheaper if you buy the parts individually yourself. Loaded Monte Carlo calipers, the appropriate hoses, and banjo bolts from local auto parts place(s). Make your own brackets or have them made. JTO sells brackets pretty much as cheap as you are going to find (sometimes a few bucks cheaper on ebay). Buy the rotors and have them machined. Sometimes they are for sale on ebay (check with aztecsugly@prodigy.net).
Good Luck.
Todd Bull.
It is cheaper if you buy the parts individually yourself. Loaded Monte Carlo calipers, the appropriate hoses, and banjo bolts from local auto parts place(s). Make your own brackets or have them made. JTO sells brackets pretty much as cheap as you are going to find (sometimes a few bucks cheaper on ebay). Buy the rotors and have them machined. Sometimes they are for sale on ebay (check with aztecsugly@prodigy.net).
Good Luck.
Todd Bull.
re: rear disc brakes
i have heard nothing but good things on the TSM kit, i went a different route. i got the brackets and 4w/disc master and rottors from JT outfitters (my M/C was original, 27years old) and the stainless hoses for the axle from TSM (cheapest) and replaced front lines to the calipers and the ones from the frame to axles with the man-a-fre extended stainless ones (4 lines 100.00) and then used the calipers of off a 82 caddy i got free from my brother inlaw. works great stops awsome even on ice and snow takes very little pressure, but a cheaper route is to just use the raybestos rubber lines listed in the tech section and rebuilt calipers from nappa or other source from mid 80s monte carlo (front calipers) and with the 4w/disc master there is no need for a proportioning valve. dont be in a hurry and shop around for what you need, i looked around for months before deciding which way to go. if you have further question just pm me if you wish. GOOD LUCK!!
i have heard nothing but good things on the TSM kit, i went a different route. i got the brackets and 4w/disc master and rottors from JT outfitters (my M/C was original, 27years old) and the stainless hoses for the axle from TSM (cheapest) and replaced front lines to the calipers and the ones from the frame to axles with the man-a-fre extended stainless ones (4 lines 100.00) and then used the calipers of off a 82 caddy i got free from my brother inlaw. works great stops awsome even on ice and snow takes very little pressure, but a cheaper route is to just use the raybestos rubber lines listed in the tech section and rebuilt calipers from nappa or other source from mid 80s monte carlo (front calipers) and with the 4w/disc master there is no need for a proportioning valve. dont be in a hurry and shop around for what you need, i looked around for months before deciding which way to go. if you have further question just pm me if you wish. GOOD LUCK!!
check out the JT outfitters instructions. I just picked up their bracket on ebay for $65 and am going to get all the other parts from somewhere other than jt. They have some good parts but they are over priced and whenever I call them I feel like I'm talking to a bunch of hillbilly's.
http://www.jtoutfitters.com/instructions
http://www.jtoutfitters.com/instructions
H
Hodag
Guest
Rear disk brackets
I used the blueprints that are found in the tech section. They are in Adobe format. I just downloaded the file and my wife printed them off to full scale on her plotter at work. I had a buddy plasma cut them out of a piece of 3/8" stainless that was lying around. The scale drawings were accurate to 1/64". All I had was a tiny amount of grinding on one bracket, but that could have easilly been the cutter's fault, not the drawings. Easy and cheap. Rest of the parts, any AutoZone, Oreilllys or NAPA should have. Save the bucks for a locker or beer. Hodag
I used the blueprints that are found in the tech section. They are in Adobe format. I just downloaded the file and my wife printed them off to full scale on her plotter at work. I had a buddy plasma cut them out of a piece of 3/8" stainless that was lying around. The scale drawings were accurate to 1/64". All I had was a tiny amount of grinding on one bracket, but that could have easilly been the cutter's fault, not the drawings. Easy and cheap. Rest of the parts, any AutoZone, Oreilllys or NAPA should have. Save the bucks for a locker or beer. Hodag
www.Proffittscruisers.com had the brackets for 20 bucks each and Sky manufacturing has the rotors, allready machined for... I think it was 80 or 90 bucks. then add loaded calipers from kragen for 18 or 20 bucks each and your set. These were the cheapest prices I could find a few months ago, and Proffitt and Sky are vendors worth keeping in business.
PMK
PMK
I used the BTB kit and it was easy to install and everything fit well. I have heard good stuff on the TSM Kit. I was told that if you are sprung over or plan to be the TSM kit works better. Don't know the specifics as to why.
beanz2 said:What has a high drool factor is a full floater axle with factory disks and built in parking brakes:
Dave
Dave, I'm drooling alright!!! I noticed that the 70 series FF axle uses the floating
caliper and the rotor fits over the hub. How does the ebrake works? Is it like
the 80/100 series ebrake?
/td
beanz2 said:What has a high drool factor is a full floater axle with factory disks and built in parking brakes:
Call (604)-824-9974 or PM Greg_B or 70sguy for more info...
Dave
boy..... that looks an AWFUL lot like the rear on my 80!!!
almost exactly in fact...... is it a 70 series axle? (I'd hate to think what cutting down an 80 series axle would cost...)
if it is, do the 70's have the standard size diff and pinion flange (I forget)
I assume (as already stated) that the parking brake is a cable pulled drum brake inside the rotor like the 80 series?
hmmmmm.............
I gathered my calip, pads, lines, ect from the salvage yard. purchased new rotors from checkers and had them machined out to fit axle flange. purchsed brackets from JT outfitters (cheaper sources out there now. Took about an hour each side and I'm done. Total cost was $143. Couldn't come close to that on sale from TSM.
Klunky Chris said:
Apologies to Godzilla for stealing the thread...
It is a 70 series axle that was an option starting in 1993. Standard sized diff and flanges for the rear axle. After 1990 fronts have a high pinion diff like the 80.
The parking brake is a cable actuated unit within the rotor, just like in the 80. In fact most of the brake parts are interchangeable with 80 parts except for the rotor.
Dave
I am at the point that I am ready to assemble the rear brake conversion....I some how lost my instructions. Can anyone post them for me? Please!!!
maybe these pics will help ?
http://www.btbprod.com/Customer-Support.html
click on Rear Disk Brake Install
http://www.btbprod.com/Customer-Support.html
click on Rear Disk Brake Install
This is from the old Mud tech links. I see that they cut the backing plates off. It's not difficult to pull the c-clip and the axle to get them off, but I don't suppose there's that large a market for used backing plates anyway.
http://internet.cybermesa.com/~chscully/rear_discs.html
http://internet.cybermesa.com/~chscully/rear_discs.html
one more stupid question....do you mount the brackets both in the rear both in the front or one in front the other in the rear? of the tire.....
Both front or both rear. Both spots work, but the hard lines are more towards the rear of the axle, so it seems to make sense putting the calipers on the rear of the axle. But, I've seen it work in both places.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
Holy necropost.... This was a 10 year old post... cool beans
you want the bleeder screws on the calipers oriented towards the top so that you can get the air out
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