FJ40 Priorities (1 Viewer)

[REZARF]

Start with...

Brakes.
Steering.

Everything else is gravy...
Smooth idle/fuel mixture.
Timing.
Fluid change.
Tune up.
Safe tires.
Working horn.
Working lights.

 

[overton]

Sit in the garage (assuming you have one and your significant other let's you put it there) and stare at it. Ponder it, think about it, use the expertise you have here! Alcohol or other mind altering substances help. Get in and drive it and it will tell you what it needs. above all, TAKE YOUR TIME. Don't waste money on "good enough" fixes. Do it right the first time. I've never had anyone complain that a Land Cruiser was "too stock". Have fun, the journey is the reward. May the Forum be with you!

 

[tls3601]

Mark and honk hit the nail right on the head....................top priority. I also like overton's evaluation!!!

 

[Xpnsv72fj]

As said before brakes and steering first, then drive it and it will tell you what needs attention. Do fall in to the trap of just buying things until you get it running and driving right. These things get expensive quick!

Josh

 

[iptman]

That is actually a stock carb cooling fan installed on CA cruisers, at least that is what the owners manual stated. It's funny it says it might stay on up to 20mins after the motor shuts off.

Does it work?

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I'll jump in - I'm in the same boat you are. I've had my truck about 3 years, and have been restoring it as I go, with a whole lot of help from this forum. For the first two years of ownership, I put EXACTLY 138 miles on the truck. That's because I needed to save the money to make the repairs necessary to make it driveable. This year I've put almost 500 miles on it because THE BRAKES AND STEERING are finally good. The engine and clutch are still crap, but at least I can white knuckle around town while I save up money for the next project.

As others have said, take a step back, and take a long hard look at your truck. Determine what you want it to be when it's done. Then do research here, and find out what it will take to get it there. Don't spend money twice by changing your mind halfway through a project.

I break my projects down into bite-size pieces. I do one project at a time, and drive/enjoy the truck in between. I have a spreadsheet outlining the costs of each "project" I've undertaken so far.

Start with the known issues, like your electrical gremlins: 90% of the time, this is a bad, rusted ground connection or a rusty connection at the fusebox. Find the bad ground and you'll probably be in business.

Next: Start from the ground up:

FLUIDS: This will tell you A LOT about how the truck was maintained.

* Change the oil and filter. Look for chunks of metal in the oil. Cut open the filter too, while you're add it.
* Look at the coolant, don't just top it off. Look at it in the radiator - is it full of gunk/cloudy?
* Change the transmission and transfer-case gear oil. GET THE "FILL" plugs open first
1. This way, if the fill plugs are seized, you're not stuck with a drained tranny or transfer you can't fill
2. BEFORE you drain: Check the levels - stick a pinky in the fill hole and see if you feel gear oil. If you don't, the trans could be draining into the transfercase, or vice-versa, which means the seal between them is bad.
*Change the diff fluid, again, pull the fill plugs first - if your diff fluid is "milky" or full of sludge, it probably means there's water in it, and the previous owner didn't take good care of the diffs.

Brakes - check master cylinder for leaks, booster for function, lines for cracks/rust/dry rot, and make sure the disc brakes have pads and the drums are adjusted.
Steering -
1. check for play or "looseness" in the tie rod ends - pretty common issue that leads to wobbly, crappy steering.
2. check for a build-up of sludgy "gunk" on the knuckle "ball" behind your brakes, on the axle. Lots of goop means it's time to rebuild your knuckles.
Driveshafts - get under the truck, try to move the driveshafts up, down, around, and side to side. If there's play, you'll need U-Joints
Suspension - Check you shackle bushings (they are probably dry-rotted) this will also affect steering.

^^^When all of this is done, start on the engine/mechanicals.

If it runs, drive it, and let it tell you what it needs next...Run it, check for oil leaks, oil in the coolant, crappy idle or sluggish throttle, etc. Do a compression check and see if it's time for a rebuild.

That said, if an engine is worn and smokey, it'll still get you where you need to go, usually. If your brakes fail at 60mph...well...you're kind of screwed...

 

[airon23]

Does it work?

Yes I heard it kick on and then stayed on for a couple minutes after I parked it. Weather or not it actually helps cool it down, I don't know.

From the Owner's Manual:
"On Land Cruisers sold in California there is an underhood electric fan to prevent possible excessive heat build up from the thermal reactor.
After the ignition switch is turned off, it is normal for this fan to run if underhood temperature is high. It will turn off automatically."

 

[airon23]

Thanks everyone for the great responses.

Tonight I checked the break light that was out and I think bulbs are bad. there are some wire issues too as I think the PO hacked it up to wire some trailer lights. I have the haynes manual to follow wiring specs, so I'll get that checked and fixed and put back together. Fuses all looked good but I don't see break lights on either side right now. I'm thinking the hacked wires for trailer lights is the culprit along with possible faulty bulbs.
I think I'll finish this up and then move onto the breaks. Break fluids seem good and stopping seems good, but I haven't checked the pads or anything yet.

 

[David70FJ40]

When I purchased my '70 FJ40 almost 2 years ago, I had the drum brakes changed to 4 wheel disc brakes. I remembered the '71 I had in '72 and those brakes weren't very good. So I drove it to my shop and started to get the brake parts together and once they were all together, I had the brake conversion done with all new brake lines. Not power brakes but good stopping power. The last thing I did in the 20 months since I started was a power steering conversion. That made the 40 drive like a different vehicle and should have been the second thing I had done. Good luck with yours. They are terrific trucks and with some care can provide a lot of pride and fun.

 

[airon23]

When I purchased my '70 FJ40 almost 2 years ago, I had the drum brakes changed to 4 wheel disc brakes. I remembered the '71 I had in '72 and those brakes weren't very good. So I drove it to my shop and started to get the brake parts together and once they were all together, I had the brake conversion done with all new brake lines. Not power brakes but good stopping power. The last thing I did in the 20 months since I started was a power steering conversion. That made the 40 drive like a different vehicle and should have been the second thing I had done. Good luck with yours. They are terrific trucks and with some care can provide a lot of pride and fun.

Agree @David1947. I really want to do the power steering conversion too, it's just pretty costly is the biggest thing. Did you just use like a saginaw kit or some other way?

 

[David70FJ40]

PM sent

 

[sggoat]

congrats on the purchase! what's the deal with that extra fan next to the rad? manual switch to run say in traffic/hot weather? could have something to do with potential cooling issues?

looks like a good 40 to start with!

That would be the carb cooling fan. Some came with them, some didn't. Intent was for the fan to come on for ~ 15 mins(or so) after engine shutdown to cool the engine compt. and fuel circuit for prevention of vapor lock and such--it operated from a temp sensor mounted near the manifold, and a relay under the psgr side air duct in the cab---

 

[peteinjp]

If the roof leaks and the truck sits outside the first thing I would do is seal the roof.

Pete

 

[120mm]

Thanks everyone for the great responses.

Tonight I checked the break light that was out and I think bulbs are bad. there are some wire issues too as I think the PO hacked it up to wire some trailer lights. I have the haynes manual to follow wiring specs, so I'll get that checked and fixed and put back together. Fuses all looked good but I don't see break lights on either side right now. I'm thinking the hacked wires for trailer lights is the culprit along with possible faulty bulbs.
I think I'll finish this up and then move onto the breaks. Break fluids seem good and stopping seems good, but I haven't checked the pads or anything yet.

Haynes manual? Throw that sh*t away, and get the right one for your rig:

For Sale: - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

 

[airon23]

Haynes manual? Throw that sh*t away, and get the right one for your rig:

For Sale: - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

Thanks for that @120mm. That will come in handy and I'm sure that is much better for a resource. You learn something new everyday.

 

[kbahus]

We need to trade hard tops!

I would also advise to do a little at a time, it is easy for something to snowball and before you know it the cruiser is no longer driveable, in a million pieces, and may never see the road again for years.

 

[airon23]

haha that's great. I totally would too if we were closer to each other. Thanks for the advice. I used to own a couple other FJ40s and kinda got to that point where I could even drive them. I don't want to get to that point on this one. I actually want to enjoy this one by driving, and not just working on the endless project.

 

[caladin]

Sounds simple, but honestly do this.

Goto the fuse box, pull each fuse one at a time, clean up the fuse box connectors with sand paper or the equivalent, the replace each fuse with a brand new fuse.

I swear, it fixed most of my electrocal gremlins,
Someone here told me to do it and i put it off, don't, do it now. Fixed 75% of all electrical gremlins right there... i swear to god im not kidding... do it first...

Any time you get at a lightbulb, do the same. I swapped over to leds, just cause i think they are cool... had to replace the flasher...

For the remaining gremlins, start by assuming its a ground... get a long long jump wire, i got mine on a reel from the store...sears i think.

After cleaning, use the jump lead to bypass the ground straight to the battery, if it fixes the problem, clean your grounds just like above.

Or almost as good, just assume the ground is the problem and clean it up. This act of pessimism is right an astounding percent of the time.

Lastly, Any time you are looking, check for loose/crappy connectors, clean, and /or reattach those, especially in the engine area.

99% of the electrical gremlins were fixed by those few steps.

I think twice, it was actually something else...and I had a host of electrical gremlins on my 76.

 

[caladin]

Forgot, cooler man has great 76 wiring diagrams, and photos of a removed wiring harness for a 76 on his site... super helpful...

There is also an awesome color wiring diagram somewhere, ill hunt it up and post it...

I printed it out huge and put it on the fridge in the garage, its been a godsend

 

[airon23]

Hey thanks for the advice @caladin. I did buy a pack of fuses for that exact reason. I have replaced them. The tail lights and stuff that were out ended up being actual grounds and faulty wiring along with rotted 40yr old rusty tail lights. I was lucky to be able to fix those issues relatively easy with some new tail lights. I do appreciate the advice.

BTW, you're the only other person I know from Pflugerville TX. My brother lives there too so every time I go home to the mother land Texas, I go through Pflugerville for some period of time. Just a random thought I had when I saw your signature line.