I'll also take that radio if you don't want it....
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C6H12O6
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- #102
Thanks, Matt. We should get together, for sure. I'd love to see what you're working on. That pic you posted looks amazing.
On my end, things are coming along nicely, for the little time I've had to play with it. I can't wait to tear into the motor and get this thing running. The more I clean and inspect, the happier I am with my new truck. There are a couple issues popping up, but overall, it's a great start. I'll break this new batch of pics up a bit with some commentary. Enjoy. Tech questions coming at some point, I promise.
First off, some interior shots. Cleaned of the thick layer of dust and mouse crap, it looks pretty damn good. Mostly dash shots here. I'm assuming the Pioneer radio/cassette player was a dealer add-on. Original steering wheel looks great. Instrument cluster is pristine.
On my end, things are coming along nicely, for the little time I've had to play with it. I can't wait to tear into the motor and get this thing running. The more I clean and inspect, the happier I am with my new truck. There are a couple issues popping up, but overall, it's a great start. I'll break this new batch of pics up a bit with some commentary. Enjoy. Tech questions coming at some point, I promise.
First off, some interior shots. Cleaned of the thick layer of dust and mouse crap, it looks pretty damn good. Mostly dash shots here. I'm assuming the Pioneer radio/cassette player was a dealer add-on. Original steering wheel looks great. Instrument cluster is pristine.
C6H12O6
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- #103
The floor pans are a little rusty, but totally nothing that can't be salvaged. Some decent pitting in places, but it appears to be solid throughout, and it seems like I could grind it all out without blowing through the floor. We'll see. The only real issue inside is the crack around the front-left DS seat mounting bracket. There is a crack around the base of the seat mount that will need to get welded back together. Otherwise, super clean inside. Just a quick scrub with Simple Green got me to here. Years of farm use have the paint in the back scratched down to bare metal in spots, so I'll have to figure out how to prevent any further damage without ruining the original look. I may end up repainting the whole truck at some point, but I'd rather not go there right now.
C6H12O6
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- #104
Here is the worst of it. I placed a 1974 penny from the ash tray next to the giant rust hole in the right edge of the gas tank cover. I'm devastated. I was really hoping this truck was going to be salvageable. Looks like it's time for some diamond plate. 
Actually, the lower edge of the PS door does look a little crusty. It looks like the pitting is pretty deep and might go through. But, it looks like its been this way for a long time and has only gotten this bad, so maybe not. The weatherstripping on the doors is shot and the bottom metal edge of the door was rubbing against the door frame.
Actually, the lower edge of the PS door does look a little crusty. It looks like the pitting is pretty deep and might go through. But, it looks like its been this way for a long time and has only gotten this bad, so maybe not. The weatherstripping on the doors is shot and the bottom metal edge of the door was rubbing against the door frame.
C6H12O6
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- #105
On the bright side, the worst of the spots on the frame seems to be caused by a leaking master cylinder. The paint on the frame right below the master was eaten off and there was some ominous-looking flaky rust all over that section of the frame. A very brief session with a wire brush revealed this to be very minor surface rust. I'm sure I can get it all off, then prep and paint to seal it off. In other less rusty spots, the reddish brown crud I thought was rust, seems to just wash away. Can't wait for this family wedding to be over so I can play with my pressure washer and see what I've got here.
Other nice surprises: it looks like all the steering linkage was replaced and nearly never (if at all) driven. Most of the steering arms, tie rods, etc. have the remnants of the long, thin Toyota stickers on them. Any rust on them just rubs right off, leaving a bright, shiny finish underneath. The front leaf springs also look to potentially be newer than 1974. Somebody will probably be able to ID the springs from the white paint markings on them. Not time to search.
Other nice surprises: it looks like all the steering linkage was replaced and nearly never (if at all) driven. Most of the steering arms, tie rods, etc. have the remnants of the long, thin Toyota stickers on them. Any rust on them just rubs right off, leaving a bright, shiny finish underneath. The front leaf springs also look to potentially be newer than 1974. Somebody will probably be able to ID the springs from the white paint markings on them. Not time to search.
C6H12O6
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- #106
The junk! I haven't officially inventoried it all, but here is a list:
• An incomplete, but very nearly complete set of Toyota weatherstripping. Looks like they were planning on getting the new hard top all sealed up before the original owner died.
• Holley carb, Downey adapter plate, extra intake manifold. I won't be using any of this.
• Two extra Selectro locking hubs.
• Lots of pennies. Total cost for the 40 is now down to $3999.08 and counting.
• Two broken TC knobs.
• Fuel vapor separator (?).
• Raybestos relined brake shoes. Probably won't be using these.
• Lots of metal bits and extra bolts for securing the roof.
• Rusty, old non-OEM jack.
• One rear OEM hubcap. The word has been passed to PO to keep an eye out.
• Lots of beer bottle caps. I wonder why both sides of the front bumper are bashed in.
• An ash tray full of ash.
• Nasty old orange floor mats. Currently in the trash. If you can get here before Friday, they're yours.
• Some weird, little old-school electronic boxes. Need to search for those.
• An incomplete, but very nearly complete set of Toyota weatherstripping. Looks like they were planning on getting the new hard top all sealed up before the original owner died.
• Holley carb, Downey adapter plate, extra intake manifold. I won't be using any of this.
• Two extra Selectro locking hubs.
• Lots of pennies. Total cost for the 40 is now down to $3999.08 and counting.
• Two broken TC knobs.
• Fuel vapor separator (?).
• Raybestos relined brake shoes. Probably won't be using these.
• Lots of metal bits and extra bolts for securing the roof.
• Rusty, old non-OEM jack.
• One rear OEM hubcap. The word has been passed to PO to keep an eye out.
• Lots of beer bottle caps. I wonder why both sides of the front bumper are bashed in.
• An ash tray full of ash.
• Nasty old orange floor mats. Currently in the trash. If you can get here before Friday, they're yours.
• Some weird, little old-school electronic boxes. Need to search for those.
C6H12O6
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- #108
I also have a spare rear end. I haven't torn it apart to see the condition of the ring and pinion, but everything is there. I may or may not keep it. We'll see.
I also got the original top. The fiberglass is a total loss, and there is some rust, but I got one of the curved windows, a side window, and the rear hatch window out of the deal.
A little background on the top and weatherstripping... A tree fell on the truck in the mid 1990s. From what I could gather from the PO and the menagerie of parts, the tree broke the windshield and smashed the frame, broke the top, and bent one side and broke one of the side windows. The current top is a different shade of red, painted over white, but it is mostly rust-free and straight. All the glass is there, but it was never really installed all the way. It's just sitting there. I'll probably pull it and give it the once over with all the new weatherstripping at some point. It sounds like the original owner and his son were in the middle of fixing it up when the owner died. It was parked in the barn where they were rebuilding it, and it never moved again.
I also got the original top. The fiberglass is a total loss, and there is some rust, but I got one of the curved windows, a side window, and the rear hatch window out of the deal.
A little background on the top and weatherstripping... A tree fell on the truck in the mid 1990s. From what I could gather from the PO and the menagerie of parts, the tree broke the windshield and smashed the frame, broke the top, and bent one side and broke one of the side windows. The current top is a different shade of red, painted over white, but it is mostly rust-free and straight. All the glass is there, but it was never really installed all the way. It's just sitting there. I'll probably pull it and give it the once over with all the new weatherstripping at some point. It sounds like the original owner and his son were in the middle of fixing it up when the owner died. It was parked in the barn where they were rebuilding it, and it never moved again.
thebigredrocker
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Your rig is in amazing shape. If you decide not to grind, I've found that Permatex Rust disolver gel works great. Sometimes a 2nd application is necessary, it used to be called Naval Jelly.
piecemeal
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welcome to the 74 owners club!! 
C6H12O6
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- #111
I totally forgot about Naval Jelly! I used to use that stuff on my old '70 Plymouth Duster. Good call. I'm not too concerned about making the floorboards look factory smooth, I just want to stop the rust from advancing. I'll grab a bottle or two and give it a shot.
Once I get the rust wire brushed/ground down/naval jellied, I'm guessing I need to prime and paint it so the bare metal doesn't flash rust. Kind of ruins the vintage patina, but at least on the floor, that might be the best option.
thebigredrocker
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That's kinda what I was thinking you could do, as you know Naval Jelly is amazing stuff. Might even be useful on your rusty carb. It'll take the sacraficial coating off your carb, if any still exists, at this point though
.
.Before grinding anything down to bare metal and presenting yourself with the irreversible choice of introducing foreign paint, consider trying what ClemsonCruiser has done to preserve your original patina finish . . . first?
He uses warm water, Calcium Lime & Rust remover, 3M green scrubbers, rubbing compound and then wax for protection.
Barn Find 1965 FJ45LPB
Sample results:
He uses warm water, Calcium Lime & Rust remover, 3M green scrubbers, rubbing compound and then wax for protection.
Barn Find 1965 FJ45LPB
Sample results:
C6H12O6
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- #115
Perfect. Thanks! I'm going to give the CLR a shot first for some of the paint stains and the spots where I have a mix of paint and rust spots. Love the possibility of cleaning it up and protecting it without repainting.
Most of the floor under the seats will likely need Naval Jelly, or something more aggressive. Western Oregon is a pretty wet and muddy place. I think I'm going to need all the help to keep that sealed up that I can get. The heat shield tar on the DS floorboard is worn through and pushed up into a big bulge. That will need to come out, or at least get cut back. I may end up sorting out the rust and using some sort of tough bedliner on the flat floor to protect things. Firewall and as much of the rest that I can manage will stay red.
Most of the floor under the seats will likely need Naval Jelly, or something more aggressive. Western Oregon is a pretty wet and muddy place. I think I'm going to need all the help to keep that sealed up that I can get. The heat shield tar on the DS floorboard is worn through and pushed up into a big bulge. That will need to come out, or at least get cut back. I may end up sorting out the rust and using some sort of tough bedliner on the flat floor to protect things. Firewall and as much of the rest that I can manage will stay red.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
thebigredrocker
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The carbs had some sorta protective coating (i.e. Cadmium) that is best not to remove with abrasives or harsh chemicals. Sometimes though, they are so rusty, loss of the remaining coating is inevitable. I always try a good soak in Berryman's carb dip first.
C6H12O6
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- #120
Agreed. Not my first choice, but they also haven't really survived in beautiful shape in spots. Last resort, for sure. Too early to tell. No plans to throw a Line-X bomb inside, whatever the shape is.
Need to give the CLR and/or Naval Jelly time to go to work and see what I'm working with. Hoping to just prime and paint with Freeborn red on the bad spots. As long as I can seal them up with something tough, we're good. I'd much rather throw down a floor mat over good floors than Line-X it. I love the possibility of cleaning, polishing and waxing the rear section to preserve all those years of farm life. Just don't want the bare metal to rust.
Need to give the CLR and/or Naval Jelly time to go to work and see what I'm working with. Hoping to just prime and paint with Freeborn red on the bad spots. As long as I can seal them up with something tough, we're good. I'd much rather throw down a floor mat over good floors than Line-X it. I love the possibility of cleaning, polishing and waxing the rear section to preserve all those years of farm life. Just don't want the bare metal to rust.
