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I did the Costco LED strips over two years ago, with White Monstaliner their textured coat, and did the outside top with same Monstaliner but used a small pore foam roller. Still looks fantastic. My son uses our 40 as his DD, and all the high-school kids think the LEDs are the coolest (or whatever is the word nowadays). Instead of hooking up to interior lamp, I added another fuse box under the seat and had a power strip with inverter hooked up. Also powers Alpine amp, heated seats, marine-grade radio, rear after-market heater, and whatever else the kids hook up. Thank goodness for my 3-year-no-questions-asked Costco Interstate battery. It sure takes a beating - 4 Piaas up front, Warn winch, and Piaa headlamps.Fast Eddy said
Then I'd put led strips around the edges. As much as I like pure stock, I really like this mod.
i did exactly this. costco had led strips on sale. i bought 2 sets. the perfect amount to go from 6" back from the windshield on one side all the way around to 6" back from the other side. wired power in from the interior lamp, grounded it to windshield bolt, and wa la!! i can actually see the inside of my cruiser in the dark. its like a freakin sun in there. bonus is it strobes thru all the colors ion the rainbow with the handy dandy remote. since its led and virtually no draw on the battery, when i park it at night to go in someplace it gets left on strobe. people love it!! overall cost was $60. you could easily do it cheaper, but it was convenient to go this route.
hard to drive with strobes on though. if i could figure out how to wire it so it turned off when i get above 5 mph and back on when below it would be perfect!! mine is a 1978 pure stock, true survivor. but i can now see in it with out my headlamp.
andy
Do you work short sections, or the whole front, or rear half? I was looking at CCOT's instructions, and they indicated working in short sections, and spraying adhesive on both the hard top and the foam. I have mine off but haven't gotten the old foam, and adhesive off yet. Does all the old adhesive need to come off? I have never done this before, and I really want to do it right. It looks like you have it down to an art.Part 3
Once your surface is ready, get the headliner. This one came from Cruiser Corps and I was very happy with it. Lay it out and MAKE SURE you have plenty of material at the back corners. You DON'T what to come up short here. Once it's laid out and you think it's in the right place, fold the front half back and spray the adhesive on the flat portions on the front half. Leave about 6" to 8" of the outer edges clean and free of adhesive. I used a standard Headliner Adhesive that works on foam. 3M makes it as do other companies.
Once you have good coverage fold the front half back over the start smoothing it toward the front of the cap. Just use the palms of your hands and smooth it out. I use scissors to trim it down a little as the front begins to get narrower, you end up with a couple long triangular strips.
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I have done this and I have a full roll cage. Open up a passage to the sagging spot with your flat hand and arm. Use a fresh can that has plenty of power and spray from the entrance of your tunnel. The spray will aerosolize into the cavity. Use a soft bulky object like a pillow off the living room couch and pat down the area gently. Remember to put the pillow back.Has anyone had luck with fixing a drooping headliner keeping the top installed? Was curious if there is a way to spray (via small nozzle) and adhere the low spots with any success....
Has anyone had luck with fixing a drooping headliner keeping the top installed? Was curious if there is a way to spray (via small nozzle) and adhere the low spots with any success....