fj40 axle vs GM 3/4 10 bolt

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My4x4FJ40

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Guy's I need some help on deciding on a front axle for my 88 4runner. It has already been set up for one tons frame boxed and everything and I was going to put fj40 front witch has 9.5 e-locker, 30 spline longfields,high steer, v6 cal, mini lockouts @ fj60 in the rear but I did not think the 60 would not hold up to the GM 6.0, so I bought a ff 14 bolt and 10 bolt for the front witch is stock. I will only be running 35's and a automatic.:bang:
 
Guy's I need some help on deciding on a front axle for my 88 4runner. It has already been set up for one tons frame boxed and everything and I was going to put fj40 front witch has 9.5 e-locker, 30 spline longfields,high steer, v6 cal, mini lockouts @ fj60 in the rear but I did not think the 60 would not hold up to the GM 6.0, so I bought a ff 14 bolt and 10 bolt for the front witch is stock. I will only be running 35's and a automatic.:bang:

What t-case are you running?
 
And the 14 bolt is much closer to the ground at the bottom of the diff, which might be important if your only running 35s with it. John
 
Only if you're lacking the proper tools and imagination.

129-1305-09%2B14-bolt-basics-inside-the-ultimate-junkyard-axle%2Btrimmed-bottom-measurement.jpg
 
If you already have the built 40 front then there is no reason at all to even think about the 10 bolt. If width isn't an issue you can go with an 80 rear. It is a full floater with disks but it has an offset.

The 60 rear has even more of an offset. Assuming you either have a GM drivetrain or a mini transfer you need either a 14 bolt or a hybrid 9.5/mini or something entirely different with a centered diff.
 
Answers back,

As my plans are now to run GM LQ9 6.0 4L65E to NP203 double to LC split-case, witch is all ready to go and the fj40 built axle. should I shorten the rr axle or would running a dc shaft take that up. also doing a shave kit..

Lee
 
That is a boatload of torque with that gear combo. You're going to have to spend some money to get something that's not going to break. Might as well spend it before you're stuck on the trail.

I think you'd snap an 80 series full-floater in several different ways. You should go the 14-bolt narrowed on one side to match the t-case output and with [strike]35 spline[/strike] chromo shafts. Maybe $2k if you do the work yourself?
 
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That is a boatload of torque with that gear combo. You're going to have to spend some money to get something that's not going to break. Might as well spend it before you're stuck on the trail.

I think you'd snap an 80 series full-floater in several different ways. You should go the 14-bolt narrowed on one side to match the t-case output and with 35 spline chromo shafts. Maybe $2k if you do the work yourself?

Really think he needs chromo shafts? I think he'd be fine with stock 14b shafts unless he supercharged that LQ9. It only puts out 380lb/ft stock.

About $1k for a narrowed 14b, with two short side shafts, shaved, doing the work yourself. $300 for the complete axle, $500 for the shave kit, $200 in steel.
 
Well I guess this is what happens when you start building from the ground up, it started with a 97 vortec 350 then I cam across the LQ9 and could not pass it up. I would really like to have a 4L80E and 205 but I have already build the 203 and bought Jerry's adapter to the split-case and built and built the split-case. My plan was to put e-lockers front and rear till I found out about the axles twisting at the locker. If I could find a fj80 ff with no third I would try it as I have another e-locker. I was hoping to have a nice little rig with fj drive train under it, thought it would be cool.

Lee
 
WTF? Narrowed 14 bolt with chromo 35 spline shafts?

What locker you intend to use with that?? 14 bolts are 30 spline.


By the time you spend that much money you might as well build a different axle. The entire reason to do 14 bolts is because they are dirt cheap for the strength..

Question for the OP. You state that the front end is already set up for 1 tons. So the front spring hangers are significantly wider than ta stock 40 correct? That will give you headaches with bigger tires and turning. FJ60 front axle may be a better choice (most of the 40 axle goodies will be a direct bolt on.)
And the 60 front is a pretty good width match to a narrowed 14 bolt (two short side shafts).
 
btw, I snapped both stock rear shafts on my FJ60 (5.0/auto/203/splittcase). So, if you are planning on wheeling hard, I would upgrade and call it good..
 
btw, I snapped both stock rear shafts on my FJ60 (5.0/auto/203/splittcase). So, if you are planning on wheeling hard, I would upgrade and call it good..

which was your tire size when you snap those rear axles .?

I mean .. yea lot's of power but just 35" now the question would be which 35" to wheel where ?
 
35's

It was on the Rubicon above Cadillac hill. The easy part.

I had a rock on my DS and a tree root on the Passenger side. I was towing a early bronco with no rear driveshaft so I was pulling down on the back end. No hopping, or really burning out. Just "Kapow kapow.."
 
I have busted a stock 80 full float shaft, but it was right at the flange, (350/TH400/203/cruiser case/cut 38 TSLs) but thats over 6 years of beating the wee out of it. Upgrade those shafts and you'd have a hard time breaking it in the midwest. 80 housings with thirds can be had for $350 pretty easily. Then you'd have a spare third. Chromoly shafts run $450 for the pair with the long spline short side for the e-locker. I upgraded to bigger hub bolts too. That's about a free upgrade.

Autos are pretty easy on axles. less shock loading.
 
Well my next question is fj80 w/e-locker and Chromoly shafts and bolt upgrade. Are people still twisting the axle at the e-locker engagement? So the only way to get the 3rd out is to destroy the housing. This is what I was told at IRON PIG. I would much rather use my fj60 rear and do a ff kit with the fj80 e-locker that I already have. to many decisions.:bang:
 

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