FJ40 AMP gauge test (1 Viewer)

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i will test, but even after having to charge my battery because they were dead i never seen it move....well i mean 1/64 of a inch, barely noticable, a motion that could be associated to vibration of the engine running, not sure.

If your ammeter needle "twitches" in time to your "hazard light clicking" (when you have your hazard lights on) - Then I think this is a good indication that everything is OK.

I've never seen mine move more than about 1/64" either.

I suspect the "1979-and-later forty series cruisers " (that have the "fusible link external-shunt business") all suffer from "negligible-ammeter-needle-movement-syndrome"
 
I suspect the "1979-and-later forty series cruisers " (that have the "fusible link external-shunt business") all suffer from "negligible-ammeter-needle-movement-syndrome"


Yes, they are less sensitive 60-0-60 amp meters to accomodate the larger output alternator. Early cruisers are 30-0-30 amp, so they deflect twice as much for a given amount of current.
 
If your ammeter needle "twitches" in time to your "hazard light clicking" (when you have your hazard lights on) - Then I think this is a good indication that everything is OK.

I've never seen mine move more than about 1/64" either.

I suspect the "1979-and-later forty series cruisers " (that have the "fusible link external-shunt business") all suffer from "negligible-ammeter-needle-movement-syndrome"

Yeah, I saw it barely moving with the hazard clicker... I guess thats all I can expect.

I'll bet I see it move when I get the winch on........
 
Now this is great tech !!! :cheers:

Thanks. This is a very helpful thread. :clap:

This thread alone is worth the price of a star.

Copenhagen1
 
Use your electric winch if you really want to see it move;)

My compressor run on 24V directly from the battery, the pressure switch has a thresold of 8-10 psi start-stop, so it start pretty often, and at 120 psi it pulls 20 amp @ 24V. And i never ever seen my needle move due to the compressor running.

For the winch i never really check or notice it move, but will do.
 
amp meter working?

My ampmeter is deflecting to the left all the time like it is stuck. I have no trouble with the battery going dead or getting weak. How should it be wired and can it be taken apart and corrected?
 
My ampmeter is deflecting to the left all the time like it is stuck. I have no trouble with the battery going dead or getting weak. ?

If it returns to zero when you turn it off, this is an indication that your alternator isn't working (assuming that you have stock wiring). If it is always stuck even with the battery disconnected, the gauge is broken.
 
Great info here. My Bj42 amp gauge works ,I think ,acts as most of you describe.I knew of my fusable link and fuses and the are all good but amp meter hardly ever moves .I think I will leave well enough alone - heh heh
 
Amp gauge question - i have a 79 fj40 and the amp gauge needle just stays dead center - doesnt seems to move for anything. Does this mean my gauge is dead? Sorry for the silly question but a normal operating gauge needle will travel in what direction if the battery was disconected? My other gauges work fine. Whats the easiest way to test?
Thanks in advance.
 
On a '79, the gauge is fused to protect the meter. It uses the fusible link which is located near the battery + post as an external meter shunt, so the fuses are found in a little plastic case near the fusible link. Check them first. If the fuses are blown, it probably means you need a new fusible link.

To check if the gauge works, simply turn on all the electrical power using circuits, lights, hazards, heater, horn with the engine not running and look for leftward deflection.
 
Thanks Pin Head - Oddly, ive been recently reading up on fusable links - the 2 plastic fuse cases near the battery are still good (continuity). But embarassingly im not sure i see the actual fusable link when i look @ pictures of others? I must have one?
 
Let me post a pic and you can see if this wiring is stock or if the PO got creative. I say this only because if im remebering this correctly there are 2 wires and fuse holders (one their own) connected to the pos side of the battery but not part of any other larger leads...just direct to some of the lines. (if i said that correctly) - some pics will better explain.
 
IMG_3242.webp


Your fusible link should look like this except it will be taped up. The connector on the LEFT of this image plugs into the main wiring harness. The connector on the right, plugs into a wire that goes straight to the positive battery terminal. The gray wire shown between the two connectors is the actual fusible link.

The two pin connector on the top of this image plugs into the small box that has the two amp meter fuses in it. If your PO has hacked up your harness, I sell the parts and the fusible link to make it whole again.
 
Ahh ok - thanks Coolerman - let me look deeper into this. I guess if it's taped up it could be right in front of me and i didnt know the difference. THx very much!
 
As shown in the diagram, the wires for the amp meter connect to each end of the fusible link, so if you follow the wires to their ends in the direction of the battery, you will find the fusible link. If the link connections are corroded or lose, they will send too much current to the meter and blow the fuse first.
 
If your high power alternator is wired directly to the battery + post and not to the amp meter, the amp meter will only read the chassis current load as discharge or deflection to the left.
 
so above are a few pics of my situation. Please ignore the fuse case attached to the bright green wire...a jumper for my back up lights (long story)

Otherwise - im not seeing coolermans connecters hes referenceed in his fusable link pic. Thoughts?
 

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