fj40 '72 F Engine heater hose shut off valve
- Thread starter texfj40
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BTT. I need one too.
I got a short-handled brass 1/4 turn valve rated to 300 degrees F from McMaster-Carr Supply (mcmastercarr.com). I believe it was 1/2" NPT thread. Installed it a few years back, no problems after 3 years.
Brian
Brian
That's the fix.... Just make sure the valve you choose can handle the heat!
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I checked the McMaster Carr valve #47865K43 per BB and it is good to 366 deg., has a short compact handle as he stated and 1/2" female/male ends that should work well with the male end screwed into the standard F block heater hose fitting and a 2" nipple in the female end for the hose...as per RicardoJM on the Jeff Zip thread. It looks cleaner in a horizontal position (less obvious) than the valve handle on the Zip thread. It also costs less than $10. Thanks for the great advise.
Searching for valves, I ran across this thread.
I found this valve at Napa. It looks pretty basic and it cost $12.65. The box has part number 660-1414 printed on it and says it is a Balkamp part. The sales receipt says part number H-153.
I am going to install this. I hope this helps someone else.
I found this valve at Napa. It looks pretty basic and it cost $12.65. The box has part number 660-1414 printed on it and says it is a Balkamp part. The sales receipt says part number H-153.
I am going to install this. I hope this helps someone else.
Napa valve should work but my restrict flow enough to make a difference if you need all the heat you can get out of your factory heater.
I have never had a basic plumbing valve malfunction because of heat exposure, but then again there I haven't done this to my 40. Hopefully I will have a cab that would retain enough heat to try a heater one of these days.
I have never had a basic plumbing valve malfunction because of heat exposure, but then again there I haven't done this to my 40. Hopefully I will have a cab that would retain enough heat to try a heater one of these days.
Went to the local hardware store (a real one not Lowes or Home Depot) and used some plumbing stop valves on my son's '73 about 11 yrs ago. Can't remember the configuration but it worked great. Also installed one where it comes off the lower radiator hose so you could close off the whole loop. It did look odd.
I saw a slick setup from that a local club member had done on his early cruiser. He bought a vac controled heater valve. Then bought a vac switch. He had it wired to the fan relay so when you turned the fan on it would cut the heater valve on. I'll try to see if he will post a little more information about it.
From what I remember the whole setup was under 30 dollars.
From what I remember the whole setup was under 30 dollars.
Trollhole, did you ever post the solution you mentioned? I have an early 64' f-engine with a combination Heater Valve and Sensor. I assume the sensor is some type of temperature sensor. Any source for a replacement that your aware of?
Surprisingly enough the female thread in the head is 1/2" NPT.
Instead of trying to go original, I picked up some 1/2" brass bodied stainless steel ball valves at Lowes.
One hose bibb (angled outlet) for the top back corner of the head and a second straight valve to put in the return line.
The thinking was if the heater core springs a leak, it can be completely isolated so it doesn't leave me stranded.
The top valve needed a brass bushing and hose barb (also Lowes) to allow attachment to the heater hose with a hose clamp and some black paint to make them less conspicuous.
Instead of trying to go original, I picked up some 1/2" brass bodied stainless steel ball valves at Lowes.
One hose bibb (angled outlet) for the top back corner of the head and a second straight valve to put in the return line.
The thinking was if the heater core springs a leak, it can be completely isolated so it doesn't leave me stranded.
The top valve needed a brass bushing and hose barb (also Lowes) to allow attachment to the heater hose with a hose clamp and some black paint to make them less conspicuous.
This would work with an adapter as well.
Cooling Depot 84703 HVAC Heater Control Valve MANUAL SHUT OFF
Cooling Depot 84703 HVAC Heater Control Valve MANUAL SHUT OFF
Thank you so much! It looks like the original heater valve had a sensor as well. Is the Water temp sensor? Is there some way to accomodate the water temp sensor with the manual shut off? Thanks again for the help.
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Sam
What I forgot to mention on the phone yesterday is that the solution is easy as long as you don't have to stay stock. On my '64lwb motor, I screwed a pipe nipple to the head, a female three-way to the nipple, and the sensor/adapter into the top, heater valve into the side. Yeah, it's not stock, but then again, neither is the part your sensor is screwed into.
What I forgot to mention on the phone yesterday is that the solution is easy as long as you don't have to stay stock. On my '64lwb motor, I screwed a pipe nipple to the head, a female three-way to the nipple, and the sensor/adapter into the top, heater valve into the side. Yeah, it's not stock, but then again, neither is the part your sensor is screwed into.
Coolerman
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Thread is not NPT, it's BSPT. But luckily enough, pipe threads are very forgiving (and they are essentially identical)..
You could always do one like this as well.
That's a compact solution for sure. That would be easy to wire into the heater switch so when you turn on the fan that valve would activate. What was the original application for that valve? Part # and source?
Does anyone have the Part # and source for the wire in solution indicated by Mace. That looks like a great option
