Builds FJ 45 Extended Cab Custom Vehicle Build Finally Begins (5 Viewers)

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Last one of the Sexy Exhaust.



I promise!
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So is it a bit quieter now? Bit less tractor-esque? :lol:

Looking good. Did the shims help that rear angle a bit?


I put 6 degree shim in and very snugly/tightened everything. It drive around through the Pit adn the front yard and retighten them. I took in "The Park" tonight and when I got home, I tightened everything again.


It is super quite even with a FlowMaster 40 series. I drove around and the neighbors did not know I was out and about.
 
If you dont mind me asking, where did you get your throttle cable from? is this a custom or home made cable? the reason i ask is that yours looks pretty sweet and the one on the 350 in the 80 isnt as fluid as i was hoping for. im refering to the one in the post#507
 
I bought all the brackets, tubing, sleeves, joints and everything ready to build the Anit-Wrap. I have read many thread several times and tagged along on a few of them and understand the tension and compression of the anti-wrap bar. I was laying under my rig getting started on this and I think I messed up when I did my SOA.

Should the rear axle pinion point directly at the transfercase? I setup my front that way. I installed my rear axle with the flange parallel to within 1 degree of the output on the Transfer Case. I did not have any weight on it when the perches were welded. It looks way off now. I'm using the 63" chevy 1/2ton springs and they are super soft.

I added 500lbs to the bed area (I put 4 Warn 8274's with cable on it, so I'm guessing) and the pinion angle looks "OK". I added 6 degree shims and added the weight back on and it looks a little better but I did not get 6degree of movement on the pinion flange. The pinion is still parallel to the t-case output. It seems the springs are absorbing the angle change.

What am I doing wrong?

When I build the Anti-Wrap. I want the additional finished weight on the rig right?
 
So I cut the spring perches off and cleaned everything off in order too reweld at the proper angle. Shims are not the way to go.

I have everything sitting back on the ground and some weight in the bed. I cannot get the pinion angle right.


I found my problem.
 
I guess I could not see the forest for the trees. I was looking in the wrong place for my problem all along. This is probably the dumbest thing I have done. :doh:

I have everything sitting back on the ground and some weight in the bed. I cannot get the pinion angle right.

I found my problem.


The rear driveshaft is too long.

I had the wife jack up the pinion while I was under there trying to see what was binding up. As she jacked it up, the transfer case tried to push the engine into the radiator. If I had removed the driveshaft before cutting off the perches the pinion angle would have been correct.

Time for another new driveshaft. I think this one will get a CV joint.
 
so its binding up? how long is your rear ds? Mine is about 3 in long over stock SOA stock wheel base with out cv. No binds. people say if it vibrates down the road. I don't feel anything
 
Sux that was the problem but...........................................................................













































:lol:

Sorry, had to. Anyway, with as long as your rear shaft is, you shouldn't need a CV. Unless you have one lying around, they tend to add a good chunk to the cost of a shaft.

BTW like I said, if you need any help next week after you've gotten the parts let me know.
 
cut the shaft you have. It has to be shortened so it shouldn't be that hard.
 
Generally, if the pinion is pointed at the tcase you need a CV. If they angles are parallel, then you need a conventional DS. I agree with Fred. with your long ass rear DS, a CV is most likley not needed.
 

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