Poser said:
Why is that? I would think the hardest part would be wiring the actuator- what's hard about dropping in a diff and a new axle shaft?
FJ-40 locking diffs
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Why is that? I would think the hardest part would be wiring the actuator- what's hard about dropping in a diff and a new axle shaft?
Come on…
You need to get custom, non-common pieces in North America to make it work.
Granted, if you have all the pieces to make it work, yes it does all bolt together.
But again, you cannot install this into a semi-float Land Cruiser rear axle without a custom axle shaft, or, into a full-float without a non-USA axle shaft.
I'm sorry, I just don't look at it being that big of a deal. I've got an aussie 60FF in the back of my truck right now, and was considering paying the $$$ for a long spline shaft until I reconsidered my needs for the truck right now.
No big deal. Not like swapping in some Dana 60s. Or portals....
That is fine.
All I am saying is that there has been ambiguity on this topic for YEARS and that there are people that think that you do not need any special pieces to make it work, which is not correct.
If I can build them and make them work under my junk, with a stock tcase and spring under......it is not THAT hard.
Poser said:
True on all counts.
Poser said:If I can build them and make them work under my junk, with a stock tcase and spring under......it is not THAT hard.
Careful- You'll lose your credibility.
Then people won't call you "Master" anymore. 
Last edited:
Bodean
Hot Damn
On a budget? Go with the Aussie. Around $200 if you tell them you saw it on Mud. Easy install too.
Later,
Later,
Josie'sLandCruiser
Stop calling it a "FJ."
Hi All:
If you are on a budget ( I sure am! ) the AussieLocker, Lockrite, EZLocker, etc. are a great value; I have been running a Lockrite in the rearend of my FJ40 for at leat five years without any real troubles.
You will need to learn how to drive the rig with an autolocking diff; but it is not a big deal at all.
Good luck with your rig!
Alan
If you are on a budget ( I sure am! ) the AussieLocker, Lockrite, EZLocker, etc. are a great value; I have been running a Lockrite in the rearend of my FJ40 for at leat five years without any real troubles.
You will need to learn how to drive the rig with an autolocking diff; but it is not a big deal at all.
Good luck with your rig!
Alan
I also say ARB, hands down no other option.
As far as an OX, I am sure they are a good unit but why would you want to hassel with routing a cable. The shifter and cable mounting/routing is limited compared to a switch/wires/airline.
Electric lockers are good but the wiring is a lot more complicated and troublesomesome than a single small airline. As Poser said thy are not a drop in either front or rear of FJ housing with out custom or imported parts. Not worth it IMO.
Get ARB's and never look back. The people running ARB's will agree, the ones that disagree are not running them
As far as an OX, I am sure they are a good unit but why would you want to hassel with routing a cable. The shifter and cable mounting/routing is limited compared to a switch/wires/airline.
Electric lockers are good but the wiring is a lot more complicated and troublesomesome than a single small airline. As Poser said thy are not a drop in either front or rear of FJ housing with out custom or imported parts. Not worth it IMO.
Get ARB's and never look back. The people running ARB's will agree, the ones that disagree are not running them
Moser will cut splines for $65 each or $110 a pair.
Wouldn't that be easier than FF axles with cable locking axles?
If you went that route, then would semi floaters be an option?
I've got all the other parts laying about.
Wouldn't that be easier than FF axles with cable locking axles?
If you went that route, then would semi floaters be an option?
I've got all the other parts laying about.
Gumby said:Moser will cut splines for $65 each or $110 a pair.
Wouldn't that be easier than FF axles with cable locking axles?
If you went that route, then would semi floaters be an option?
I've got all the other parts laying about.
Gumby- are you talking about running an e-locker in a semi floater?
There's no provisions for the C-clips, even if the splines were long enough.
That'd be a problem.
Maybe in the front, although I just bought an Aussie for the front that I really like.
Maybe in the front, although I just bought an Aussie for the front that I really like.
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Got $$? ARB
Top of the line for Toyotas
On a budget? Aussie or LockRite
Aussie is well respected on mud and I know many who run LockRites with no problems. Although they say the ratchet locker can be scary in the snow...friend spun out a few times till he learned the locker.
Top of the line for Toyotas
On a budget? Aussie or LockRite
Aussie is well respected on mud and I know many who run LockRites with no problems. Although they say the ratchet locker can be scary in the snow...friend spun out a few times till he learned the locker.
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
To run an FZJ80/FJ80 '93-'97 rear electric locking diff in the front, I used PN: 43412-60060, the front Long side inner axle from a 70 series, pre 1991, non-US. Should be the same for the rear?
Did you change your gears?
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
Nope. Had stock 4.10 in rear, elocker came new in box with same, 4.10.
Orion puts me only at 58:1
With 33s, it works for now. If/when I go larger, I'll have to see about 4.88
Orion puts me only at 58:1
With 33s, it works for now. If/when I go larger, I'll have to see about 4.88
IMHO an ARB is the best option for the front. Steering issues
arise with a aussie/lockrite/detroit etc. in the front. Backing up
with the front locked can sometimes give birfields a fit. With ARB
it just flick of a switch to dis-engage.
I like my lockrite in the rear and the ARB in the front as
a semi-cheap compromize. ARB front AND rear is optimal.
It does take some attention to driving with a rear that has a lockrite
back there, but it isn't a biggie. I even like it. Hehe...chirps 'em
boys when turning from stop under power.
arise with a aussie/lockrite/detroit etc. in the front. Backing up
with the front locked can sometimes give birfields a fit. With ARB
it just flick of a switch to dis-engage.
I like my lockrite in the rear and the ARB in the front as
a semi-cheap compromize. ARB front AND rear is optimal.
It does take some attention to driving with a rear that has a lockrite
back there, but it isn't a biggie. I even like it. Hehe...chirps 'em
boys when turning from stop under power.
a fan of aussielockers, work well, and not a 1000 bucks,
but if you got extra dough go arb
but if you got extra dough go arb
heres a page with them for $780 it dosnt say FJ40 but does say BJ40 and it SHOULD be the same thing...look around on the net, i know iv seen these things for $750 somplace and the auzzie lockers i was just guessing about
http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/products/productLine.asp?cat=DRI&prodline=1164&catName=&man=ARB
good luck
http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/products/productLine.asp?cat=DRI&prodline=1164&catName=&man=ARB
good luck
Cruiseroutfitters has them for $725.50.
kurt is the man
