FJ-40 locking diffs

[cruiseroutfit]

ARB Vs. OEM

We've done our fair share of OE Lockers over the years, and sold many of the parts needed for both the E-locker and Cable locked versions.

Rear ends...
If you already have a FF axle or plan to get one soon, then the OE locker is a decent option. You'll need the special long spline shaft (available OE for ~$275). The cost of the used OE E-lockers is anywhere from $450 - $650. So its easy to see that even if you already have the FF that it is going to be about 6's with the ARB system (FF's are ~$400 and need at least $200 to rebuild them). There are alot of factors, regearing, install kits, setup labor, etc that are a case by case deal. Then you have to switch and wire the E-locker, the ARB setup (when you buy the compressor) is ready to install, plug and play.

If you have a SF, don't waste your time... if you need a selectable locker go ARB.

Front end at a minimum requires the special long spline shaft, available OE or custom aftermarket. Once again the ARB is starting to look pretty good

For those that really rally their junk, I think the ARB is the no-brainer, if/when a shaft breaks with the OE locker, you potentially have to perform surgery on the axle to get the broken parts out (meaning no trail fixes).

The setups we were really into were the OE Toyota cable locker options... we were buying complete new diffs & cable mechanisms, and having the cables built here locally (Six States cable shop). However it still required a FF in the rear and cost wise it was hard to beat the ARB. Smoother engage/disengage, commonly available spare parts... yada, yada, yada.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Oh, some pricing to help you compare F & R locker setups.

ARB FRONT AND REAR
2 ARB's ~ $1550
1 Compressor ~ $160
4 Carrier Bearings ~ $80
Install Labor ~ $350 (you pull 3rds)
Front Axle Rebuilt Kit ~ $87 (at a minimum do inner axle seals and some paper gaskets)
Rear Axle Rebuild Kit (if needed) ~$75 (beaings, seals, gaskets)

$2302

E-Locker assuming you don't have a FF
J-yard Used Full-Float ~$400 (plus at least $100 shipping)
Rebuild Kit for FF ~$130 (bearings, seals, gaskets)
Front Axle Rebuilt Kit ~ $87 (at a minimum do inner axle seals and some paper gaskets)
J-yard E-Locker ~$450-650 x 2 (might need rebuild, many of these get pulled @ dealers due to bearing noise and end up on the market )
OE Long-Spline rear shaft ~ $275 (yet to see an aftermarket long spline FF shaft)
OE Long-Spline front shaft ~$150 aftermarket
Switching mechanism ~$50+ (OE switch could add some)
E-locker diff gaskets and studs ~ $50
Brake Parts (if you don't have a ebrake style rear axle 80' & later) ~$100+

$2442

These are quick numbers out of my head but they give you a little insight both ways.

 

[lavarunner]

I have a question on all this. why not use the entire axle out of the 80?
I mean even narrowing the rear you could have the shafts resplined. or am I Way off here?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I have a question on all this. why not use the entire axle out of the 80?
I mean even narrowing the rear you could have the shafts resplined. or am I Way off here?

The cost of said conversion IMHO would outweigh the advantages big time... sure a guy with some serious fab skills and machining ability could do it on the cheap, but it would be less work to make an old SF axle FF and add disc brakes IMHO. The shafts likely don't have enough material to re-spline as the spline is rolled not cut from the original material...

 

[tglaser]

Old post I know but why are the Detroit lockers overlooked so often? I've had one in my rear (Chevy) for 10 years and it works great. Noisy, yeah, but hey if you have a quiet cruiser, I'd love to see it.


The Detroit Elocker works like an open diff until you decide you need the extra traction. Beside the obvious here, don't you think it functions pretty similar to an ARB?

 

[Pin_Head]

Old post I know but why are the Detroit lockers overlooked so often? The Detroit Elocker works like an open diff until you decide you need the extra traction. Beside the obvious here, don't you think it functions pretty similar to an ARB?

Never heard of a Detroit E-locker for cruisers; only the Detroit auto locker and E-Z locker.

Some people have the original Detroit auto locker, but it is about the same price as an ARB, same work to install and it is not selectable. Since cruisers have relatively strong carriers, people tend to use cheaper and easier lunch box lockers (Aussie, Lockrite, E-Z) when they want an auto locker.

 

[tglaser]

That makes sense. Thanks for clearing that up for me!