Fixing the 73 (1 Viewer)

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Sometimes, people tap the throttle too much before the engine kicks over, is what I'm suggesting (hard to get engine starting). You have to tap it once with an electric choke, but not with a manual choke. This image is from my other Haynes Manual.

plugs.jpg


Just a soft wire brushing, and some gasoline is probably all that you need for cleaning. Cleaning is good, because you can recheck your plugs while you troubleshoot.
 
Really great job. Definitely went after it. Your dad is smiling from above for sure. Hope your journey this far with it achieved what you hoped it would accomplish.

Very impressive.
 
Two thumbs up from the peanut gallery!👍👍
 
I got buff and polish all the dirt nubs and s*** out of the paint. Still have little things to do. Thinking about tackling an a/c. That thing is like a hot box. 😰💦
 
Sometimes, people tap the throttle too much before the engine kicks over, is what I'm suggesting (hard to get engine starting). You have to tap it once with an electric choke, but not with a manual choke. This image is from my other Haynes Manual.

View attachment 2328253

Just a soft wire brushing, and some gasoline is probably all that you need for cleaning. Cleaning is good, because you can recheck your plugs while you troubleshoot.
It isnt hard to start or i have not felt a hesitation or misfire. I had only been running in the garage at idle. Then finally took it out a couple days ago. Probably went about 2 miles then came back and checked the plugs. I dont know when the last time my pops had it running. I have a mallory ignition and i just cleaned the s*** out of the air filter. So i dont know just be extra careful you know.
 
I got buff and polish all the dirt nubs and s*** out of the paint. Still have little things to do. Thinking about tackling an a/c. That thing is like a hot box. 😰💦
I put the vintage air super series in my bj73. It is great. Heat cool and defrost.
if your defrost and heat already works in your heater core still good it is a lot cheaper to just add on an AC unit under the dash and you have room for that in the 40 series.
In my situation everything from the factory was trashed. Instead of trying to find ungodly expensive New old stock parts or find something from a salvage yard imported from overseas I just went total aftermarket with vintage air. Only downside was I bought the cheapest line and fitting set on Amazon. I have some leaks I need to address.
 
can anyone give me the torque sequence for a 2F engine oil pan.

There's no particular sequence, the torque values are so low that it doesn't matter. Place the pan upside down on a flat surface, and flatten the flange with a drift and a hammer if it is crooked from some previous owner prying it off. Use the Toyota one-piece cork gasket; use FIPG sealant on at least the corners (I do a very thin coat on both sides of the whole gasket), put the corner bolts in first so that the pan is held evenly (no weight levering one end or the other). Put in all the bolts finger tight, then torque to 90-100 inch-pounds and stop right there. If you don't use an inch-pounds torque wrench, it is very easy to over tighten and squash the cork gasket out, and it will leak.
 
There's no particular sequence, the torque values are so low that it doesn't matter. Place the pan upside down on a flat surface, and flatten the flange with a drift and a hammer if it is crooked from some previous owner prying it off. Use the Toyota one-piece cork gasket; use FIPG sealant on at least the corners (I do a very thin coat on both sides of the whole gasket), put the corner bolts in first so that the pan is held evenly (no weight levering one end or the other). Put in all the bolts finger tight, then torque to 90-100 inch-pounds and stop right there. If you don't use an inch-pounds torque wrench, it is very easy to over tighten and squash the cork gasket out, and it will leak.
its already leaking after i replaced the gasket a couple months ago. Tried the one piece from cruiser corp didnt fit right so i got a 4 piece and i believe i didnt get the u shape gaskets in good enough. was going to go back under there and retighten. But i believe it was an epic failure. -.-
 
Note. Torque is in inch-pounds. Not foot pounds!!!

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Here is what I would do regarding your oil pan gasket. This will greatly improve your chances to be leak free.

1) go to the FAQ of the 40 section. Look up Posers section on the installation of the oil pan gasket. Follow every single one of his directions, including tying the gasket to the pan with string. Use FIPG from Toyota.
2) dump the 4 piece gasket and use what Toyota used...one piece gasket.

I have attached a few pictures of when I did mine.

C31ABABF-D621-4954-9860-DEEB31D960F2.png


A8CCAFF6-C55F-42DC-ABFF-07110578533A.png


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Black silicone RTV is your friend! put a bead of silicone all the way around on the pan. Use a tool, or your finger to spread it on the lip of the pan so you have about 1/16-1/8" thick layer all the way around the lip of the pan. Put the pan in place and barely snug the bolts so that the pan is stuck on the bottom of the block with RTV sticking to both surfaces all around, but not tightened/not squeezing out to much of the RTV. Let the RTV set up for a while ( at least 30 minutes) or a bit more then tighten up the bolts around the pan alternating on the way around........Some of the RTV will squeeze out, but you will have a good firm layer between the surfaces.
Having a vacum tube from the intake to the valve cover with a good PCV valve will help keep a vacum pulled on your crankcase while it's running and help with oil seeping out. Alot of people toss these out when restoring a older vehicle just thinking it's only for emissions purposes and another point of failure for the engine. Not sure the setup for your 40.
 
If you use an OEM one piece gasket it is not necessary nor advised to use gasket sealer on the flat sections of the gasket. Best product to use...by far...is Toyota FIPG, and then only on the end corners.
 
Here is what I would do regarding your oil pan gasket. This will greatly improve your chances to be leak free.

1) go to the FAQ of the 40 section. Look up Posers section on the installation of the oil pan gasket. Follow every single one of his directions, including tying the gasket to the pan with string. Use FIPG from Toyota.
2) dump the 4 piece gasket and use what Toyota used...one piece gasket.

I have attached a few pictures of when I did mine.

View attachment 2330980

View attachment 2330983

View attachment 2330985
nice job
 

Yes, that’s what I would do. Here is the thread mentioned above from @Poser . A whole bunch of valuable information that will help you succeed. Good luck.
 
If you use an OEM one piece gasket it is not necessary nor advised to use gasket sealer on the flat sections of the gasket. Best product to use...by far...is Toyota FIPG, and then only on the end corners.
John is right, if you can get a good high quality rubber one piece gasket and the lip of your oil pan is straight/not deformed so that you can clamp down evenly the rubber is the way to go, and will be reusable if torqued properly........ You should have a good size oil strainer on the 40. Clumps of RTV squeezed into the inside of the engine if they break free in the wrong place can cause blockages in some vehicles, saw that once. If added with a gasket it can also cause the gasket to shift a bit out of position. if your gasket will not stay in position and needs to be glued in place so to speak then permatex aviation brown/red or Indian head gasket shellac works well for that. Rtv when properly used is a good "get it done today" solution for older sometimes deformed parts that can't be fixed or replaced easily or you cannot obtain the proper gasket for an acceptable amount of time and money.
 
Black silicone RTV is your friend! put a bead of silicone all the way around on the pan. Use a tool, or your finger to spread it on the lip of the pan so you have about 1/16-1/8" thick layer all the way around the lip of the pan. Put the pan in place and barely snug the bolts so that the pan is stuck on the bottom of the block with RTV sticking to both surfaces all around, but not tightened/not squeezing out to much of the RTV. Let the RTV set up for a while ( at least 30 minutes) or a bit more then tighten up the bolts around the pan alternating on the way around........Some of the RTV will squeeze out, but you will have a good firm layer between the surfaces.
Having a vacum tube from the intake to the valve cover with a good PCV valve will help keep a vacum pulled on your crankcase while it's running and help with oil seeping out. Alot of people toss these out when restoring a older vehicle just thinking it's only for emissions purposes and another point of failure for the engine. Not sure the setup for your 40.
 

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