I have a 00 LX470. Where can i find the abs module? Thanks.
Fix for ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, & Brake lights remain on no CEL, or how to repair an ECU (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter FJRyder
- Start date
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It's in the driver's footwell. The images I posted show the location, unfortunately they got flipped somehow and I don't know how to fix them, but you could save and rotate them yourself if you want to see. To remove, there are four connectors which can be disconnected by hand or using a small flathead screwdriver, and there are two 10mm nuts on the right side mounting bracket.
- Thread starter
- #43
It's under the dash on the driver's side right next to the brake pedal. You have to get on your back to see it.
There are 2x 10mm bolts and 4 wire harnesses. The 4 connectors have a clip in the center that need to be pushed in to release.
From ICCE:
There are 2x 10mm bolts and 4 wire harnesses. The 4 connectors have a clip in the center that need to be pushed in to release.
From ICCE:
thanks a lot you guys.
Special thanks to FJRyder for fixing my computer problem. A very small fraction of the cost Compared to computer replacement, and peace of mind that the ABS and skid control works for my 79 year old pops LC. Many Thanks Justin!
I couldn’t recommend the services of @FJRyder any stronger - the guy is not just a legit electrical guru but he is really a nice person to deal with too. He actually followed up after sending back my repaired ECU to make sure it worked after install. Well, I’m happy to report that the repaired and now reinstalled ECU which now has a functioning ceramic resonator has resolved all the aforementioned issues. The “Christmas Tree” of dash warning lights are gone, ABS and VSC work, and I couldn’t really wish for a better result.
FJRyder....mad props man!!!! I pulled my abs module and did the repair. i had never soldered something that small before, but took my time and made sure the 3 pins were not in contact with each other with solder. You are the grinch that stole my christmas tree...in a good way, lol. Thank you for the write up.
I would add to your original post: to get the old resonator off you need to heat up 2 of the pins at the same time so you can lift and bend the resonator up slightly and finally apply heat to the last pin to remove.
I would add to your original post: to get the old resonator off you need to heat up 2 of the pins at the same time so you can lift and bend the resonator up slightly and finally apply heat to the last pin to remove.
- Thread starter
- #49
Awesome, glad to hear it all worked out!
Yeah, I've found that a hot air gun/rework tool is best for surface mount devices like this.
Thank you x200! Pulling the old one was my biggest hurdle in this process as well, I put a wider tip on my hakko to reach and repaired not only mine but the used bad one that my mechanic bought off bay to replace it. I can’t thank you enough for this write up! I don’t have a ‘scope but when the resistance went through the roof on my multimeter, I knew I had a good chance this was the issue, but never would’ve known where to start without this.
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Nice to know there’s an easy fix for things that can cost $200-800+!
- Thread starter
- #52
That is great to hear! Keeping LCs on the road is the main goal.
Although the electronics on these are not bad, its funny that the mechanics (engine, tranny, etc.) are outlasting the electronics
.It's usually the case, the know-how/labor out costs the failed component.
BullElk
SILVER Star
Does this light show look like a bad control module repaired with new “ceramic resonator” ??
- Thread starter
- #54
@BullElk, those are the correct symptoms of a bad ECU with a faulty ceramic resonator, however there are other causes that can lead to this symptom.
A repaired control module should not have any of the ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, and Brake lights on unless there is a separate issue.
To further narrow it down, you need to determine if 1)the ABS/TRAC computer is generating codes or 2)if there is proper communication with the computer.
If the computer is generating codes, then there is no communication issue and you need to follow the fault codes thrown.
If there are no codes and no communication with the computer (via TechStream) then it's very likely that the computer is bad with the faulty ceramic resonator.
If you have the Techstream software/cable use that to try and communicate and pull codes from the ABS/TRAC computer (note, this is not the OBDII interface used for emissions, but a Toyota specific protocol).
If you don't have Techstream, then you can pull codes by shorting the E1 and TS pins on the DLC1 connector under the hood. The VSC light flashing the code if there is anything.
Process spelled out here: Saved myself $100 fee - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/saved-myself-100-fee.258484/post-3996531
A repaired control module should not have any of the ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, and Brake lights on unless there is a separate issue.
To further narrow it down, you need to determine if 1)the ABS/TRAC computer is generating codes or 2)if there is proper communication with the computer.
If the computer is generating codes, then there is no communication issue and you need to follow the fault codes thrown.
If there are no codes and no communication with the computer (via TechStream) then it's very likely that the computer is bad with the faulty ceramic resonator.
If you have the Techstream software/cable use that to try and communicate and pull codes from the ABS/TRAC computer (note, this is not the OBDII interface used for emissions, but a Toyota specific protocol).
If you don't have Techstream, then you can pull codes by shorting the E1 and TS pins on the DLC1 connector under the hood. The VSC light flashing the code if there is anything.
Process spelled out here: Saved myself $100 fee - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/saved-myself-100-fee.258484/post-3996531
BullElk
SILVER Star
@FJRyder, I am looking to buy this 2000 LX with these dash lights on. The owner's mechanic says he can't pull any codes from it with his particular code reader (maybe due to no computer communication). So I am assessing the situation to determine the cost to repair. I drove it and it drives and brakes fine.
It's possible. Two key things for me were:
1. No audible alarm
2. No communication with the brake module (no error codes via OBD or even using the diagnostic jumper and flashing light - no codes at all, even Techstream wasn't able to communicate with the Brake/ABS Module)
Quickest test will be the Ts E1 jumper on the diagnostic block under the hood and see if you get codes vías the blinking dash light. If no codes, then it's likely this issue. If you get codes, even the "all good" code, then it's not this issue.
- Thread starter
- #58
The car will drive fine with this issue. The main concern is that there is no ABS or traction control functionality.
BullElk
SILVER Star
I don’t think I will be able to assess it in any more detail before agreeing on a price. I think I can get it at a price that will make this fix work. I think.
Well I have the dreaded lights with no CEL or buzzing. I was pulling out of the driveway yesterday and when I tapped the brakes it felt like the ABS engaged. The lights came on at that point. It happened a total of two times, but has been normal braking ever since. I stopped at AutoZone to just do a OBD scan and there was nothing. Didn't think there would be since I had no CEL.
I'll jump the Ts E1 when I get to work and get a jumper wire on Monday. Will I be counting the number of flashes of the ABS light?
I'll jump the Ts E1 when I get to work and get a jumper wire on Monday. Will I be counting the number of flashes of the ABS light?
