Clutch slave and MC install was a breeze, fired it up, pushed the clutch in, and drove it around the block. Woohoo! Finally, now if I only had brakes lol. New bleeder screw should be here Monday, hopefully bleeding that system goes as smooth as the clutch did.
I got the exhaust all fabbed up and that fixed all of the off idle hesitation. She runs great now, I also hooked the aftermarket voltage regulator up and it showed a positive indication on the ammeter for about 2 miles then it went back to a negative draw like before it was connected. Do these fail often or did something else go wrong? I still have a lot of disconnected plugs and no idea what they go to. There are at least six wires per side and a plastic plug going no where. Any ideas?
I'm still waiting on the brake bleeders to finish the brakes, but I couldn't resist loading the wife and kids up and driving it around the block for half an hour grinning.
Looks like a pretty good seep coming from the right side of the oil pan dripping down onto the drive shaft and the rear main looks to be seeping as well, there is an oil drop under the bellhouse cover. I still have no headlights but I'm assuming that's due to the fact the brake lights aren't hooked up yet. The LED kit from JTO showed up and the brackets arent even close, they're like a whole inch off. Am I missing something else? I also picked up a box of new fuses and plan to clean the fuse box connections up. I did notice the floor dimmer switch doesn't click or light up the high beam indicator. If it fails would that explain it?
Also spent most of my budget on this eshan top and bows! Should be here next week.
I'm still having a hell of a time with this carb and trollhole still doesn't have any in stock... It only starts with starting fluid and runs good after that. I can't find any vacuum leaks but have heard it's probably my AP circuit. I watched pinheads carb rebuild videos, should I rebuild it or just wait for a trollhole? It's in rough shape and the choke seems to have no effect on starting.
The carb rebuild is not a big deal if you are a detail person. (I'd rather do that than a knuckle rebuild any day!) The FSM and pinhead's videos make it pretty hard to screw up. Get yourself some paper cups and a pen. Separate the parts into cups and label the cups with the names of what they are and what side they came from.
I soaked the big pieces first, then did half of the small pieces (with all of the pieces from the primary side) then the other half (with all of the pieces from the secondary). That way you don't get them mixed up.
It took me about 1 1/2 to 2 hours to remove the carb and take it apart carefully. Then I carb dipped the parts. Then about an hour to hour and a half to put it back together and install it.
New tune up kit consisting of: points, rotor, cap, plugs, wires, filter, and pcv went in. Looks like a better spark, but it's still not starting without ether, definitely need to rebuild this carb. I got all the nasty threads cleaned and the new brake lines installed.
I ordered 4 bleeder screws and installed one at each corner... After about ten minutes of bleeding the back I looked at the front wheels and realized there was fluid pouring out. There were plastic plugs stuffed in the other bleeder holes. I had no idea there were six bleeders needed 4-front 2-back. I'm going to try and find two more locally, I waited two weeks to get these four.
I assume that you're talking speed bleeders? If you have a NAPA, they sell them, and if not in stock they should be able to get them in a day or two. NAPA 675-1573 is the SB1010 and is the correct speed bleeder for the FJ40.
Old School bleeders should be in stock at any decent parts store M10x1.0 34mm (or a little longer) in length is good.
I called around to all the autoparts stores and found one with two in stock! Picked those up as well as a carb dip kit and a one man bleeder vacuum. Also ordered my carb rebuild kit and brackets for the rear soft top bow.
Good progress. I guess that you weren't looking for speed bleeders if you got a bleeder vacuum doohicky. FYI, my rebuild kit didn't come with the secondary throttle diaphragm. Fortunately mine was still good and I didn't need it. If you need it, it's available as a separate part from Napa.
Made a few key purchases today; a feeler gauge - to properly set the points gap allowing the motor to start without ether and run better than I've ever seen it run, a vacuum brake bleeder - totally worthless... I ended up sticking the hose into a water bottle of brake fluid and all four corners bled in 30 minutes, and a can of seafoam - not sure if it's doing much just yet. I picked up an antique tag for it and we took it for it's first trip outside the neighborhood. It was a good day, oh and the soft top was delivered and looks great. I can't wait to get this hard top off and get the Paki on. Any tips on the removal?
Fuel pumps leaking pretty bad, I probably should switch that out before it burst into flames. I guess it's time to move onto bodywork and paint. I'm planning on installing the Paki top this week and ordering some stockish wheels+33x10.5x15 KM2. Anyone need some 75% Tread dry rotted 33x12.5x15 And a hard top?
After a whole day of sanding, priming, sanding, priming, sanding, painting its now all one color. Went with rustoleum khaki after stopping by a few local paint places that wouldn't even look at it for under $3k. It took all day but turned out pretty well for $50. Didn't do the top since it's coming off later this week when the Paki top goes on. Crappy nighttime garage shot.
I spent about an hour fighting the top until I remembered to loosen the striker plates and it poped right up.
Defenitly get at least another person to help you lift it off, it's a beast. Where the hell am I going to put this damn thing.
Bows on and looking good.
Top went on pretty easily, just laid it on the hood and started at the front working my way to the rear. Footman loops were all in the right place thankfully. Just got to drill holes for all the other fasteners to tighten it up and it will be done.
The top was in a box for who knows how long before it went on so I left it out in the sun hoping that it would unwrinkle a bit. It's a little loose as well so I picked up $4 in pipe insulation for the bows to stretch it out.
New running boards are on too, sure makes getting in and out easier.* Actually running it daily it starts instantly, but the fuel pump HAS to be replaced asap though. Carb rebuild kit is in, so that should keep me busy. There is a huge difference in rigidity going from hard to soft top, I can feel the whole 40 twisting around every turn.
CFO keeps bitching about the tires so I need to make a decision. 33x10.5 bfg km2 or 34x9.5 SS tsl ? Both will go on stock rims, where do I get them and will the 74'-up rims work? There is some random website selling them for $75 each. Or I can spend $122 a rim from $OR for the 72' rims
That's EXACTLY the setup I was going to recommend. FYI, they come primed black. You'll need to paint 'em gray. Best bet on wheels is usually your local dealer because they won't charge shipping.
They are stock and worn out. They will be replaced shortly with anti inversion shackles and a rough country 4" lift. The top and bows were $1600 from a fellow mudder.
Pulled the shiny new fuel pump off the spare motor to replace the old leaky one. I crawled under the 40 to pull the old one and it's only got one bolt holding it on... That might explain the leak. I really need to go over ever bolt on this thing before I drive it again, who knows what's about to fall off. Good news is the old pump properly torqued down with BOTH bolts is holding a seal perfectly and pumping fuel as it should.
