First start checklist?

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After looking at the two engines side by side it's pretty clear that someone did a good amount of work on the motor in the 40 and then failed to fully seat the dizzy and melted the motor. The dizzy in the 40 sticks up a full inch higher than the running F. As for the compression on the new motor, it was free and I want to drive not wrench, so it's going in so I can take the kids to the beach.
 
That makes sense for why the motor is seized. Still somewhat disturbing that the PO must have known that, but that is history. Free engine? That's a no brainer. Stick it in.
 
alright, what am i doing wrong here. i want to hear this thing make a noise before i swap em out and all im getting is a click from the starter when i complete this circuit.

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its batt to starter
jumper from pos coil to pos soleniod
jumper on black dizzy wire to neg coil
screwdriver in the solenoid to simulate ign switch and complete circuit

all i get is a click... there is a black wire on the other side of the solenoid to no where do i ground that? its not hooked up on the current 40 and it tries to turn without it connected so i didnt think i need to use it.
 
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motors turning over now but im getting a pretty weak spark at the plug. pulled the dizzy cap and i can see the points sparking and a very faint spark at the plug. i tried scratching up the connection points, ive also got 12.24 at the battery. what am i missing here? is it the jumpers im using instead of solid connections?
 
"Jumper from pos coil to pos solenoid"?
You're not using the solenoid, you're using a screwdriver.
Try connecting the pos coil directly to the pos on the battery.
If you're hoping to start it, connect a jumper from the battery to the idle solenoid on the carb.
Also, I assume that you've got the neg terminal on the battery connected to the starter or somewhere on the engine.
 
I pulled the old black wire off the dizzy to clean all the connections and now I have no spark. Its all back together just like it was and clean now but no spark...
 
edwjmcgrath said:
How do you know? The PO said that the vehicle needed to be "buttoned up" and it appears to be completely frozen. How do you know that the guy who is selling the engine isn't lying too?
Click to expand...
It's turning over! That would make it better then one that's siezed. Which way to the beach you ask??? The beach is(Bicep flex)that way!!!
 
nickswan said:
I pulled the old black wire off the dizzy to clean all the connections and now I have no spark. Its all back together just like it was and clean now but no spark...
Click to expand...
Just yank the old engine out and drop the new one in and you'll be 3/4 the way to taking the kids to the beach. The siezed engine isn't doing you any good still bolted in.
 
Turns out there is a square Teflon piece protecting the bolt going into the dizzy that was shot. I fixed the Teflon with a washer and now I'm back to spark but it's very weak. Is this as good as it gets with points? Or do I still have a bad connection somewhere?
 
If your points are out of adjustment or worn, then perhaps yes.
 
If it's cranking, I agree that you should drop it in.
If it were me, I'd run my own compression test though. I'd hate to go through all of that work to find out that the new engine is bad. Just my conservative nature.
 
It's alive!!! The carbs puking gas though... Regardless I'm excited. What do I need to hook up to keep power going to it and let the starter disengage?
 
Throw it in the engine bay and finish wiring it up there. I'd be afraid of 900 lbs. of metal and 155 hp on a stand. Tie that sucker down.
 
Did you connect the coil positive directly to the battery?
Otherwise you're only going to have voltage to the coil while you are cranking the starter.
Start with the screwdriver and pull it away.
 
edwjmcgrath said:
Did you connect the coil positive directly to the battery?
Otherwise you're only going to have voltage to the coil while you are cranking the starter.
Start with the screwdriver and pull it away.
Click to expand...

I figured it out, runs great. The carb is leaking at the sight glass, looks like an o-ring maybe?

With a little help we were able to bust the motor mounts loose, disconnect the speedo, clutch slave, and p-brake. We got hung up on the shifter removal, the collar pushes down a little but not enough to turn it. I assume there is no way to pull it with the shifter on? Any secrets on getting it off without the special puller?
 
Dude, it runs. You can fine tune it later. Bolt it down before you hurt someone.
 
Some shifter collars are designed for you to turn it clockwise; others are designed for you to turn it counterclockwise. It's a little bit of a bear until you get the feel for it.
 
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