First start checklist?

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New to me motor is in! We were able to do it without pulling the mounts or the tranny hump. The engine hoist has paid for itself already. Now I just need to re-wire it, button it back up, and move on to brakes.

Pulling the tcase shifter from underneath with the hump on was painful, but it was nice to have a spare motor to look at for reference. I'm not looking forward to putting it back together from beneath. I heard if I left the shift gate off I would have 2L available, any issues running without the gate?

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Yeah six year olds first motor swap, no shoes, safety third, father of the year
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Progress made! Motors in, driveshafts are on, shifters are on, and got the ignition wired up, and the motor cranks.

Now for the issues... Apparently I have a single line fuel tank and a two line carb with a return. Any ideas? I'd read that I can run the return back to the filler neck and tee it in there.

Where do I run the hot wire for my carb solenoid? Battery, +coil, elsewhere?

Really hoping this clutch is worth a damn, not looking forward to replacing it now that it's in. Is the clutch slave supposed to leak? I'm assuming not...

Brakes are the next big job, front axle has all new lines, the back has none. Can i go stainless flex or do I have to spend $400 on new hardlines? I have hard lines from MC down the frame to the rear axle but none of the rear lines after that.

Forgot to put a shot of it actually in
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I would run the fuel return back to the tank as you suggest. It's there so that you don't end up with fuel sitting in the line above the engine potentially causing vapor lock.

The hot wire for the solenoid should be any wire that it hot (full 12v) when the ignition is on. Coil plus is not a good choice if you have an external resistor. The plus side of the resistor would work though. Battery is a bad choice because the solenoid won't do its job if it is not turned off with the ignition. Anything that is wired to the ENGINE fuse should work (or the HEATER or WIPER fuses). The IG terminal on your voltage regulator might be a convenient place to pick it up. Or you can run a separate line back to the fuse panel.

Clutch slave cylinder is $20 at Cruiser Corps. If it's leaking, I'd treat myself to a new one without thinking about it.
 
One step forward two steps back...

It's all buttoned up, p brake works, motor starts and runs well without leaking.... Until the thermostat kicks on then all hell breaks loose. We noticed the fan pulley was wobbly and it's making a shot bearing noise, once the thermostat kicked on the water pump started leaking profusely.

As for the clutch I can't tell if it's the leaky slave or if it needs to be adjusted, the clutch feels like mush and is pretty hard as it gets close to the floor but never disengages for me to shift into gear. Any ideas?

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ouch $470 later, all new brake lines, headlights, tail lights, and clutch slave are on order. i plan to pull the water pump from the non running F
 
Since the new engine was free, you're ahead of the game, right?
Don't suppose there was a working slave on the old engine?
 
nickswan said:
clutch slave are on order. F
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Clutch cylinder rebuild kits are cheap. Do not replace the slave without replacing/rebuilding the master. A worn master pushing a new slave will give out in a week. So you get to bleed twice. Replace both and bleed once.
 
edwjmcgrath said:
Good advice. My master is leaking. I ordered master, slave and new flex hose.
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Damn you guys are costing me money, I called and changed my order to include a new MC and line to go with the slave.
 
i got all the brake lines in and its hardly a bolt on kit, $OR bent all the lines up to fit them in a smaller box and still charged $45 to ship em... im still waiting on JTO to ship out my clutch MC and slave. and my in-laws are in town for ten days, so progress has been slow. i still need to pull the water pump off the boat anchor motor.

if you look at the driveway pics you can see the "sweet" lift the PO put on it with the longest shackles he could find. anyone know if $OR is the only source for stock length anti-inversion shackles? they seem to be the only place i can find. this 40 is going back to stock height and five of these are going on.

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this is more of the look im going for and these tires are under $100 and from what ive read feel like you have power steering. obviously they do have some wet road issues but honestly this thing is going to the beach and wheeling 90% of the time.

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God this thing is nice i just want to live in it.

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Hopefully i can get the brake lines on and bled this week, clutch MC, slave, and headlight/taillights on and working and drive this damn thing for the first time. Im also starting the search for an OEM soft top and bows, so if anyone has one and want to get rid of it, let me know. i've already got clearance from the CFO, she said its going to be too hot with the hardtop and no AC. not sure if she realizes i could put AC in for less than a repro top. :D
 
How not to swap water pumps...

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Looks like my donor motor had an AC option in '73 and my parts motor didn't in '72. The '73 has a double pulley for the compressor and the '72 doesn't, so I had to stack some washers to move the fan from hitting the crank pulley.

Luckily a little heat, PB, and vice grips extracted the two broken bolts. I tapped em to clean em out and mounted the donor pump with some 1 minute gasket maker. Seams to be holding tight so far. I ran it for 10 minutes and finally changed the oil and filter, as well as antifreeze.

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My ammeter is showing a negative draw and my battery is no longer turning the motor over, not sure if my alternator is working or if it's just from starting it, idling and not driving it. It's on a charger now. Hopefully the clutch slave and MC will be here Tuesday and I can get the brakes done tomorrow, all goes well her maiden voyage should be Wednesday night.
 
nickswan said:
Looks like my donor motor had an AC option in '73 and my parts motor didn't in '72. The '73 has a double pulley for the compressor and the '72 doesn't,
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I think the extra groove in the pulley was for the smog pump that used to be attached to your air rail...
Also, check your metal fan very, very carefully for cracks, and plan on replacing it with a plastic fan.
 
Pighead said:
I think the extra groove in the pulley was for the smog pump that used to be attached to your air rail...
Also, check your metal fan very, very carefully for cracks, and plan on replacing it with a plastic fan.
Click to expand...

Any idea on a specific model plastic fan or part number? Or are you talking about an electric fan?
 
Not an electric fan, a Toyota fan but it's made out of plastic and has more blades.
I think mine came from Mark A., but you can get them from just about any vendor.
Bolts right on to a non-clutch water pump.
 
Nice surprise today, looks like the PO stuffed cotton into all the brake fittings five years ago... I thought they were black rubber plugs when I bought it. What a fxxxing mess, I spent two hours trying to pick this s*** out, and am going to have to tap the threads to get em clean. It's a 10-1.0 tap if anyone is in the same situation.

I also realized the brake bleeder screws are gone. Any chance a local auto parts place will carry them? Or do I need to order them?

Only real progress I made was pulling the clutch slave and MC, the new one will be here tomorrow. Any tips on that install?
 
Clutch slave and MC should be fairly simple. Negative: I had to pull brake booster to get mc out. Good news: gravity bleeding makes it an easy 1 man job.
 
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