- Thread starter
- #21
I am Planning on getting this F in the next week or so, should I pull the whole engine tranny and transfer case and swap them or just the engine? If I do just the engine what else do I need, gaskets, etc?
First start checklist?
- Thread starter nickswan
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
I'm going to syringe the MMO out and replace it with jet fuel and let it soak over night. Then I plan to hook a tow strap to it and drop the clutch at about 20mph to see if we can break it free. It's coming out regardless so I'm not real concerned. If it breaks free without breaking a ring or worse, I'll run it till it stops. If it does break it's replacement will be here sunday.
Jet A or did you get your hands on some JP8? lol either way careful!
i would try everything to free the motor up before you take the motor out. i think i read on here you can put in gear and pull it with a tractor or another truck and try to break the motor free that way... (after the soaking of course)
Make sure your seatbelt works first. Any steep hills nearby?
sounds like a good way to "break free" parts other then the engine.
If it was me i would have all the spark plugs out, in 4th gear with no parking brake applied . put it in 4 wheel drive (front hubs too) and rock it with a tow strap and another truck.
Thanks for the idea here. Tomorrow I start on a motor that hasn't turned in 20 years! Nickswain keep the idea train going & posting results please.
Tow strap or popping the clutch aren't totally nuts ideas. Doing both at 20mph IS.
Connect the tow strap while it's in 3rd or 4th gear and try to pull it. OR
Have a couple of guys push it to get it going 2 MPH and pop the clutch. Try both of these with the plugs out.
Connect the tow strap while it's in 3rd or 4th gear and try to pull it. OR
Have a couple of guys push it to get it going 2 MPH and pop the clutch. Try both of these with the plugs out.
- Thread starter
- #28
Plugs are out and jet fuel is soaking now, I'll try dragging it in 3rd first, if that doesn't free it, I'll drop the clutch. No brakes still so this should be interesting. The guys from north Florida cruiserheads want video too so I'll post results.
- Thread starter
- #29
Welp, no need for video... nothing good to report. we pulled it in gear through the driveway without it budging, so we decided to pull it and drop the clutch at increasing speeds starting with 5mph and going up to 30 mph to no avail. after the first drop at 5mph it locked the wheels, skidded for a foot or so, then seemed to break free and roll... we're thinking it was the clutch finally slipping on the flywheel because the motor is still frozen in the exact same spot. more than likely we are guessing the PO or PPO welded these cylinders shut via oil starvation or worse. we cant see any gaping holes in the block with broken rods hanging out but we just wont know until we tear into it. good news though, the new motor will be here sunday and I hope to have it ready to swap by next weekend. If this thing is welded shut I am assuming its scrap as well as most of the internal components, correct me if im wrong.
On a lighter side i was able to snap a few cell shots of it in the driveway.
I know sexy, right?
On a lighter side i was able to snap a few cell shots of it in the driveway.
I know sexy, right?
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The ride looks SWEET (well other that have'n a boat anchor as a motor). Wish mine looked that clean!
Hopefully it's just the clutch slipping and not something broken inside the tranny due to your method of trying to break the engine free.
- Thread starter
- #33
here is my new 2 ton engine hoist that cost as much as the motor its lifting.
anyone know if thats an Aisin carb and oil bath filter? it feels solid, shifts well, and weighs a fxxxing ton. hopefully it will be in place this weekend, any first engine swap pointers?
i plan to degrease and scrub it down tomorrow as well as swap over some of the accessories. i assume thats the stock exhaust manifold. im also assuming i dont see a lot of those on 40s for a reason. anything i should do now before i shoe horn it in that will be much easier now?
anyone know if thats an Aisin carb and oil bath filter? it feels solid, shifts well, and weighs a fxxxing ton. hopefully it will be in place this weekend, any first engine swap pointers?
i plan to degrease and scrub it down tomorrow as well as swap over some of the accessories. i assume thats the stock exhaust manifold. im also assuming i dont see a lot of those on 40s for a reason. anything i should do now before i shoe horn it in that will be much easier now?
Did you turn it over and check the compression?
I'd also check the clutch while it's relatively easy to access. Way easier to replace now than after the engine is in.
I'd also check the clutch while it's relatively easy to access. Way easier to replace now than after the engine is in.
- Thread starter
- #37
i posted these a while back with no response. how do i check the clutch and what am i looking for?
You apparently got hosed by the PO on your current engine. Before I bought and installed another engine I would want to watch a compression tests with my own two eyes. The rule of thumb is 10-15% variation max and minimum of 120. Those numbers are at the minimum and over the variation.
It's far better then what he's got in the truck right now!
How do you know? The PO said that the vehicle needed to be "buttoned up" and it appears to be completely frozen. How do you know that the guy who is selling the engine isn't lying too?