Builds Finally!!!!! (1 Viewer)

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Progress!!!! Someone had the interior light connected to the engine fuse. It goes threw the cigarette lighter as I read. I disconnected it, connected it to the cigarette lighter. Now the engine breaker doesn’t melt!!!.... the lighter does... as soon as I connect the battery.....:rolleyes:
 
Ok!! Wiring is over! (Fingers crossed). I have the engine fuse not popping and metering well, the lighter fuse is fine, now that the interior light was a power going to it and no return. Everything seems to be in order. I put the cruiser to acc and tested everything. Seems to work well electrically. I can’t get the brake warning light or seatbelt light to work, but I’m not going to sweat them at the moment. Now I can attack the idol solenoid, tuning and timing!!
 
I have finally returned from my business trip, so I can give my cowboy some attention!! First thing was to put on the defrosters I got from @FJ40GURU . Next, while I was away my front drivers side tire has gone flat.. as these are KO1s and my spare is from the 80s and bald... I’m spurred to buy all new wheels and tires. It’s a big blow, but it’s worth it! I’ve also got all the stuff to refresh the front breaks. I know there’s a ton more I could do while I’m in there, but one step at a time!! Lol. While I was at Toyota making my order, I found this little guy too!!

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Ok. I have new hub caps.. is there a trick? I can’t get them to clip on. I even used a plastic dead blow mallet.
 
On a plus note! Cowboy had his first drive up to 45 mph without the speedometer freaking out. Thanks to @RAGINGMATT ! In his new site I found a made-in-japan speedometer cable! So much frustration gone!! I’m getting closer to road trips! Watch out Tonto Roosevelt, I’ll be roar tripping too!

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Its been to long.. but life has been happening, but I've finally put some color on cowboy. I originally used "putty" by rustolium. Almost exact match to 464 beige, but alas it is discontinued. So, I got French beige. Not a bad color!

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Painted the bumper, fixed the rear lights, removed the aftermarket tow kit that spliced into the original wiring, and removed the ball hitch (for now..)

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Well thanks to @ToyotaMatt , my final gauge works!! The oil gauge sparked to life after a sender replacement and running a new “OEM” wire. Po has it jumpered to the alternator power... no idea how they thought that was going to work..... now because of my work travel, cowboy is my DD when I’m home. And I love every minute. I have a Bluetooth speaker I set in front of the center concole for music. It gets power from the cigarette lighter. I even had a person offer to buy him. Made me super proud.

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it's Great News to see COWBOY with a Healthy Beating Heart :D

within the correct Range of Normal Operation

That can be now Reliably Monitored from the Drivers Seating Position




Note: COWBOY is a 1977 Model Year , the Below Owners manual pages are from various

1970's Years fj40's 2F Engines , but rather a good
SOLID Generalization

🦄




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my manual shows the last picture. so far from what I've seen driving around town and to work now, he seems to flirt with position c. he doesn't go over the line though.
 
My brakes takes a good minute to stop my 40, and squeal if I stop to fast, like if a red light pops out of nowhere or a @&$ty driver gets to close. I have discs in the front and drums in the rear. After rebuilding the fronts, I decided to tear into the drums, but both look great. I cleaned them both to with brake cleaner to get out any dirt or dust. 🤷🏻‍♂️ Look good..

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First things first Seth ,

get a hooked shaped pick , and VERY carefully insert it between rubber boot and the main body of

cylinder . pull outward like 3mm' ish and then down / up depending , about the same until u visually

expose the wheel cylinder Piston it self , Be VERY careful here NOT to pull the boot too much , or it can

pop off the retaining Lip or Ring of the main cylinder body , if this were to happen , you would be

screwed , and have to take everything apart to pop it back on . So the As-Needed Approach

is the Mind-Set Approach here . 💥


what you are looking for is ANY sign of wet / liquid fluid , a moist sludge'y type look or a Bright

oarnge'ish Cast Iron color type Residue , Any of the 3 or combination of the 3 are Deal Breakers

and would indicate CowBoy was in Need of a fresh 4pc set of wheel cylinders . they ALWAYS get

replaced in full sets , and NEVER only one at a time , also i would
Strongly Suggest you not even

think about or consider rebuilding or repairing ANY Fj40 drum brake wheel cylinder ever .

they get pitted and scored inside from age and time , and have a high falure rate if u were to attemp this

( IMO based on solid facts and first hand experience )



Now , if all's well , and all 4 piston cups are dry and look normal , witch both CowBoy and i hope they

are ! :D Then ypu need to tackle the adjustment topic , you WILL need the factory FSM grey book for

this HAYNES , just does not cut it here on this topic that indeed can be a bit confusing , but is really

rather simple after u get done .


This may be a Optical Illusion ? , But i see from my point of view a
RED FLAG , it looks as if Only 1 star

wheel has been adjusted out , the inboard one closest to the transmission ? they are all white metal

from the tip of a flat blade screw driver chipping away at them by the PO , it looks as if the Rear or out

board star wheel remains Dormant and untouched ? 🔴


please confirm this , i see LOTS of male threads exposed on the star wheel adjuster shaft too , in your

first Photo above too , this is another RED FLAG 🔴



the above inspctions take a bit of time , VARY WELL SPENT TIME , and do not cost any Money to do


this is where i would start , it will quickly confirm or deny the parts are Solid or Not / and provide

SOLID Fact Based Test Spec. DATA ,you can then refer and relate to the FSN Grey chassis body

Manual with .


You have My Shop HOT-LINE Seth , feel free to call me if needed , as always im here to Help

CowBoy in any way i can .....................:cat:



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