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Thank you all. After yesterdays cleaning the squeal is gone, but it still takes a fair amount of time to stop. But as said before, I'm spoiled with a modern car and I've heard these take a bit more attention to drive. (not complaining, I love it) So far everything I've heard from long time 40 drivers and mechanics has been 100% true. lol. Love this community!! But back to the brakes, @ToyotaMatt I did notice one piston did have some sludge on It... may have to have a chat with Mr. Toyota again..
 
Thank you all. After yesterdays cleaning the squeal is gone, but it still takes a fair amount of time to stop. But as said before, I'm spoiled with a modern car and I've heard these take a bit more attention to drive. (not complaining, I love it) So far everything I've heard from long time 40 drivers and mechanics has been 100% true. lol. Love this community!! But back to the brakes, @ToyotaMatt I did notice one piston did have some sludge on It... may have to have a chat with Mr. Toyota again..


Can u post a photo of the offending Piston Cup ?


also , was my conclusion that one star wheel is adjusted way way out further then the other on each side axle ?


fyi , the 4 rear wheel cylinders for 1977 CowBoy have been dealer Disc. NLA , but there are made in

Japan options , get with me for further details



shoes and hardware how ever are still Dealer Available ...............



you will want the 2 small cylinder to cylinder horse shoe brake tubes too .

contact @Rainman here on the Forum , he is the leading expert on the topic and sells very high

Quality kits too :D



Lastly , you will want to invest in a Factory Toyota OEM Brake adjustment tool SST , if your not familiar

with this tool you WILL BE ....... 🤣


araco_booth - Copy ink.jpg


 
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ok. I cant check at the moment, as I drove it to work.. although.... the 40 DOES have everything to do this check.. stock... hmmmmm… lol
 
Well. After almost a week of cowboy being my daily driver.. my carb is becoming unresponsive. It cuts out at idle like the idle solenoid is out, but I’ve newly replaced that. It’s disheartening to say the least... it cut out every time I held the clutch on the way home today. I had to pull the choke to get it home threw the stoplights. And this evening it would just fade out if I didn’t have the throttle on. I’m thinking of just getting the card rebuilt. Thoughts???!!
 
I took off the air intake and sprayed in some carb cleaner. After starting it up it seemed to idle fine till I turned it off. I then started it up again and tried to put the air intake cover, and it started to die. After playing with it, I tried to adjust the carb. Not it runs.. but it sounds rough. 😕😕
 
so what I can see I either have a vacuum leak (possible), or I have a dirty carb. I don't know which yet. ill have to poke around tonight.
 
Checking for vacuum leaks is easy. Get yourself a vacuum gauge if you don't already have one. I would start there before a carb rebuild. Watch and follow Pinheads videos on carb cleaning and rebuilds, very helpful and informative.
 
You mentioned it cut out every time you pushed in the clutch. I'm guessing you had the clutch depressed at stops. If so you might pull the vac hose off the brake booster and temporarily plug it. The smooth end of a 1/2" drill bit works good for that.
 
I’ve caped off the hose to the brake booster, and it didn’t die. So I got a new hose as the old one was stiff and cracking on the edges. Then clamped it good and tight. It’s a little better but still dies when the brakes are applied.
 

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