Finally!!!! Saginaw PS pump conversion kit for FJ60s!!!!!

[acerock]

I have heard that the Saginaw P series pumps have a lot more PSI than the Toyota pumps. Would switching potentially blow out the seals in the steering box? I have found a low PSI pump from summit racing, and I think it's around 800PSI. Would that be a better option? Or using a power steering psi reduction valve?

Either way, I would like to order a kit. Let me know how

 

[orangefj45]

We've never run into issues with the sag pumps "blowing seals out" on either the FJ60, Minitruck or other Toyota PS boxes.
Obviously if the seals have never been replaced, then it's not a terrible idea to do so. Parts are fairly inexpensive and everything is readily available at the dealer or from vendors such as Beno, myself and others on here.
And replacing the input seal and o-ring ( the most common leak by far ) is a very simple job.

I have plenty of the kits in stock.

Thanks again for all the support and orders, I appreciate it!

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

 

[lel]

My kit should be here shortly! Thanks george

 

[Godwin]

Thanks Godwin. Let us know how it performs for you. We all appreciate your input here as you have certainly been around the block with 60's. I like your herp posts too

Have now put ca. 150+ around town miles on the system. I had to re-adjust the alternator to re-tighten the belt after ca. 50 miles; the belt was squealing but only with the wheels fully cocked and when I was backing up . The only difference I've noticed is that the steering is a little lighter than with the OEM pump. Very nice to have a pump that's not hemorrhaging all over the engine.

 

[TallCanDan]

TTT while I start the conversion

 

[orangefj45]

Thanks for all the orders and support!!!

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

 

[BigRiggs]

I want to thank @orangefj45 so far for his engineering and attention to detail. I am in the middle of my desmog and won't be able to start the engine to see the final result for a little while.

I bought the Autozone 7023 pump and when I saw the bolts sticking out the backside all I thought was how awful it was to remove the oem pump since I incorrectly tried to remove the pump from the bracket. I couldn't do it because the rear bolt hits the exhaust manifold. After a quick search on MUD I read that the bracket needs to be removed from the block then remove the pump from the bracket. Reading through this thread I saw Godwin using Adavance Autoparts pump, part # 20-7920F. I purchased it because it didn't have the unused bolts on the back so it looked cleaner and the website said the pressure line would be an exact fit, M16 x 1.5 like the original FJ60 pump. Little did I know I could simply remove the external bolts from the Autozone 7023 and replace with internal only. I figured this out when there was another plastic plug on the back of the Advance Autoparts pump and a google search.

But since I had both pumps I decided to take some pictures so others could see. The Autozone and the Advance Autoparts pumps that I got differ in reservoir clocking, mounting bolt depth and output pressure line fit. With all these differences, I'm keeping the Autozone 7023 because of the alignment of the reservoir vertically. The instructions that came with both pumps had extra O-rings so you could reuse the old pump's high pressure fitting if it did not match the one that came with the rebuild. The problem with that is the Toyota pump fitting is shorter and wouldn't thread into the pump anyway.

Even though Autozone's website says the high pressure fitting is 5/8'' X 18 and not M16 x 1.5, it fit the stock flared fitting. It was a little harder to turn to get the flares mated than the fitting on the original pump.

 

[BigRiggs]

I also managed to pop this off so maybe I can attach it to the new cap and keep the TOYODA on the top. Not sure if that's sacrilege or not.

Interesting bit of form and function: that large T on the top is a passageway so the cap can vent.

 

[Godwin]

Minor update. I had a very slight leak with the stock high pressure line where it plugged into the pump. The leak was almost unnoticeable except for the small puddle of ATF on the smog pump. Last week the high pressure line began to leak somewhere under the insulation, may have been at a curvature that had been overflexed. I replaced the stock line with one from Carquest (came through Advance Auto; $35) and it fits perfectly. No more leakage.

 

[BigRiggs]

I cut once and grinded in two places to get the stock bracket to accept either of the pumps that I test fit.

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

@4wheelfever Thanks for the detailed pictures. We all appreciate it for sure.

 

[CheyenneTrucker]

This is a great write up on this product .I was turned on to the parts from West Texas Offroad , and of course GEORGE
YOU ARE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED . THANK YOU HEAPS FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE !
DENNIS

 

[orangefj45]

Thanks for the added pics!!!!!!!!

Glad everybody is happy with the product. I've sent some of the kits to fellow cruiser shops as well.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

 

[John McVicker]

Talk about FAST service: I pm'd Georg @ 10:07 am asking to please contact me so I could place the order. By 10:41am he had returned my call AND I had a tracking #.

Now that's how to run a business !

Thanks Georg, John

 

[orangefj45]

Thanks for the order and ongoing support John!!!!!

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

 

[John McVicker]

Completed the install today. Smooth as butter with my brand new 33x10.50x15 MUDs. Couple of pointers that might help the next guy.

1) did not remove my smog pump. Fully smoged...its tight but doable.
2) after cutting & grinding, mounted the pump to the OEM bracket. Then installed bracket & pump together.
3) don't try to 'tap' the pulley on. It's too tight of a fit & you will damage the pump. Buy a press on pulley kit or make one. I made one for about $3 & it worked perfect.
4) here is how I made it. 4" full threaded grade 8 bolt...3/8 x16. Heavy duty, very thick washer...mine was about the thickness of 2 nickels stacked, 1 nut to go on the bolt. The nut pushes the washer down, onto the pulley & onto the shaft. I used a bit of grease.
5) don't fully seat the pulley, almost but not quite. I left the space of about the thickness of a nickel.
6) at 1st my pump was moaning. Air in the system. Lift the front end off the ground and with engine OFF, slowly go lock to lock 20-30 times. Keep checking your fluid level. Air should be gone.
7) I used syn ATF fluid.
8) the pump I used was from Oreillys #732-2137.
9) cap was Dormans #82581.

I wheel quite a bit. In the last 4 years I've gone thru 4 used OEM pumps. I'm thinking this Saginaw will last a long while...and if it goes out, a replacement is $55.

 

[masonbarnard]

looking forward to this at some point in the future, my system isn't too bad yet.

you should sell a complete kit with the pump, fluid, all bolts, res cap, and modified bracket for an additional price. id rather have everything from one vender then 2 or 3

 

[87CRUSR]

looking forward to this at some point in the future, my system isn't too bad yet.

you sell a complete kit with the pump, fluid, cap, and modified bracket for an extra price. id rather have everything from one vender then 2 or 3

Ditto

 

[John McVicker]

Sprung a leak. Not in the new pump but in the hydraulic line that runs from the the pump down to the steering box.

Earlier in this thread someone said the Toyota pump operated at 600 psi and the Saginaw @ 1200 psi. When I 1st started the truck up after the install I had several small leaks. All except this hose was solved with just some tightening clamps etc. I think I've got them all solved except for this one hose. Hope to get a new hose tomorrow.

EDIT 2/15/17: installed new hose, Napa # 71210 from back of ps pump to steering box.

 

[orangefj45]

Thanks for the replies guys.

We do stock all the parts for the conversion. One of the reasons why I don't sell a "complete kit" is because some carriers won't ship liquids ( power steering fluid ).
The parts we include in the "basic kit" aren't easily sourced or only available from us. The other parts are very readily available at any local auto parts store.
We'all be happy to supply the reman ps pumps and filler caps. We also stock the replacement high and low pressure ps hoses. And we've sold quite a few of these items along with the basic ps conversion kit.
The basic kit does include all the required hardware.
We do offer the modified bracket but it's a "exchange only" item at this point. So you'll have to send your original bracket back when you're done with the swap.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers