Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe (1 Viewer)

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Yeah with it getting dark so early I have been looking for other things to do and I am not a big nite mtb'r so that leaves the Xbox and the cruiser. Both have been getting equal love lately.

Gonna need to grab some wire wheels as I should attack that frame rails before too long. BeBe finally got a bath today which is the first time since probably the early spring (other than rain storms). So her rims are nice and shiny now waiting for the new shoes! Stoked as I think the S/T Maxx will look sick on the 60.

So here is a question for you guys that have cleaned up your frame rails.... I have a 4 1/2" die grinder that I am assuming I can use instead of a drill, is it better to use a wire wheel or a wire cup brush?
 
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So once the new tires are on I will be taking the truck to my buddies house who has a barn and pnuematic tools and we will be taking care of the TREs finally and then doing an alignment.
Greg, you gonna do just the TREs or the rods too?
TREs and RREs are high up on my to-do-list, but will get pushed back until next spring...I was going to take a shot at it and just do the ends, but it would be nice to have the rods too, because from what I understand just getting the ends off is a test of the will, and then wondering if I'll run into a show stopper trying to get the old ends off the rod and the new ends back on....from what I understand, Toyota sold the rods along with the ends, as a package deal...
 
G, I use both... get a knot wire cup brush and wire wheel... they are better than the std cup brushes/wheels and hold the wire better. When the wire wheel starts to lose its aggresive nature, flip it over... it will reverse the wires and dig in to the surface again...repeat as needed....

Cheers,

J
 
@Slow Left the plan is just to replace the TREs only, not the rods as they seem to be in fine shape. Of course I will evaluate further once I get to that point and if they need to be replaced as well then I will put in the necessary order. Just for ishts and giggles, @beno what is the cost and part number for the rods?

@reevesci thanks for the recommendation. I found a kit with a few other items for cheap from HF and will probably go grab one tomorrow. Still have the tranny armor off and it needs to be cleaned up so will use it on that first.
 
I touched up my frame and started off using a wire wheel on a grinder. I then switched over to a sandblasted.
There is no comparison between the two. A wire wheel just does not do it in my opinion. It takes a long time and only knocks off scale and flaky paint. The sandblasted truly eliminates the rust.

I live in canada where rust is a very formidable opponent. Even reevesci would have to take a breather from fighting canadian rust.
The only way to combat it is by eliminating it with no mercy, wire wheeling will just slow Iit down a bit.
 
I touched up my frame and started off using a wire wheel on a grinder. I then switched over to a sandblasted.
There is no comparison between the two. A wire wheel just does not do it in my opinion. It takes a long time and only knocks off scale and flaky paint. The sandblasted truly eliminates the rust.

I live in canada where rust is a very formidable opponent. Even reevesci would have to take a breather from fighting canadian rust.
The only way to combat it is by eliminating it with no mercy, wire wheeling will just slow Iit down a bit.


Yes, the true way to fight rust is by blasting to a SPC-5 (white blast) or SPC-6 (Commercial blast), seal the metal and then paint or PC... Wire wheeling will only clean it up for awhile (pending your regional area) if a good secondary and final finish are not applied...

J
 
Yeah my area isnt bad for rust and I just want to clean up what is there so that I don't have to worry about it that much later on. More than anything I want to clean up the flaking OE coating so it doesn't create pockets for water/dirt/etc to get stuck in.
 
Ok quick question.....
This morning while turning the corner to my office the throttle response went dead, and I mean DEAD. Truck still idled but pushing the accelerator did nothing. I instantly knew it was the throttle cable, pulled over and looks like I lost my little bobbin/cotterpin that holds the arm to the actuator on the carb. Quick little garden wire fix and it works fine now but is the pin still available? (@beno @Sam Stewart)
 
Perfect! Will order one from you soon Onur, next question is I am sure that it is probably a couple dollar part, may just order the horn pin replacement while I am at it, no sense in doing a $5 order with you and wasting your time.
 
If you are looking at changing the tie rod in addition to the ends, Greg, you might consider the 80 TRE mod. I can't remember who sold it. It was 80 Series ends with the jam nuts instead of the clamps and a heavy duty rod sized for a 60. Might have been a 4+ item. It's been a couple of years since I last saw a reference.
 
Ok quick question.....
This morning while turning the corner to my office the throttle response went dead, and I mean DEAD. Truck still idled but pushing the accelerator did nothing. I instantly knew it was the throttle cable, pulled over and looks like I lost my little bobbin/cotterpin that holds the arm to the actuator on the carb. Quick little garden wire fix and it works fine now but is the pin still available? (@beno @Sam Stewart)

Yep this happened to me going up a steep trail last year... I wired mine together and drove it 70 miles home. Bought a pin from the local hardware store until Georg sent me a new set up...

J
 
Yeah was in meetings all day today and again all day tomorrow. Will have to order on Friday but for now the bailing wire/garden wire seems to do the trick.

@Juggernaught I dont plan on replacing the rods as they seem to be in good condition so will be focusing on just the TREs for now. Other thing I noticed was that I still have the stock steering stabilizer. Looks like that will have to be replaced soon as well.

Which then brings me to my dream, I would love to be able to "build" my suspension as I have done with my bikes, basically picking the parts I want to get the ultimate system setup for what I WANT. Well when I was somewhat pricing it out (going with Hell Creek Springs or Ironman Springs, Bilstein 5125s, JT Outfitters Anti-Inversion shackles that are 2" longer than stock and ES Bushings it came out to about $1900) it really seems like getting a kit from someone is the "better" way to go. Somewhat wondering if I can do things slowly, e.g. get the shocks now with a little longer travel (as I think they are rebuildable) and then get the AI shackles when I get the chance with the bushings, main expenditure is the springs then which would come down the road.

Or, get the AI shackles and bushings now, then shocks and springs there after. Goal would be, once started, to have the finished suspension "kit" within a years time.
 
Got the new tires on today and wow what a difference!!! Even the guys at DT commented on how much better they looked on the truck, not serious MT aggressive but better than most stock All-Terrains.

So here is BeBe the weekend I picked her up in 2012 (mismatched 235/75r15)
HPIM1267 by renofizz, on Flickr

And here she is today, new 31x10.50x15 Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx
Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

And here is a close up of the tread pattern.
Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr
 
So randomly found a set of 60 springs that had been re-arched and AAL'd on CL for $100. Talked to the owner today and we are working out me getting out to his place to pick them up. Looks like I will be doing some suspension work real soon here!

Now I got to think about;
- shocks
- bushings
- u-bolts
And the steering stabilizer I am looking to replace. Guy just text me and said he also had some Pro-Comp shocks that came with the truck when he bought it, they have less than 100 miles on them so may grab those but he did not know which model they were.
 

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