Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe (1 Viewer)

[Random Dan]

Actually NAPA sells one and it was replaced when I rebuilt the carb with the head back this time last year. Not sure what is going on but with it being all of in the 20s and 30s lately I really need the truck. Can't afford to take it down to rebuild the carb and see what is going on. Going to test the HAC when I get a chance to see if it is operating properly.

The secondary not working could explain the horrible gas mileage. Literally dropped from 10-12mpg in town to now about 6mpg. But does a lot better when I do long trips. I had adjusted the timing right before all this started but it was a very minor tweak, maybe retarding it a couple degrees max.

I think if anything the lack of a secondary would give you better mileage at the expense of power. With a non-opening secondary I get 17mpg doing 105kph on the interstate and 14-15mpg in town.

Do we need to have a carb diaphram sale? $10/diaphram if you buy a carb kit?

I'd be down for a set.

 

[gregnash]

I think if anything the lack of a secondary would give you better mileage at the expense of power. With a non-opening secondary I get 17mpg doing 105kph on the interstate and 14-15mpg in town.

Really it depends on your driving habits and the type of driving you are doing. Normally, from my understanding, the secondary doesn't come into play until you hit a high load situation, so driving up mountain passes or pulling long hills would cause it to fire off or suddenly mashing the pedal and getting very "spirited" with your driving. I have done all of these without having my secondary kick on. I know that my secondary slow cut valve leaks sometimes so wondering if that may have something to do with it. I need to find the thread detailing on how to cut out that slow cut valve and see if I can't rehab this carb. If not then I may be purchasing a trollhole sooner than later.

 

[gregnash]

Ooooooohhh pretty!!! Finally got my new toy last night!

Main issue that I read a lot on the NON Power MIG versions (like the HD from Home Depot or Pro from Lowes) was that they had/have plastic drive roller systems. Well I can confirm on MINE (Easy-MIG) that it is a cast aluminum system. Just need to get a gas tank, which will happen this week, and then I can start working on some things.

 

[cruisermatt]

Make sure your regulator is in CFH and not CFM... big difference there

 

[gregnash]

Make sure your regulator is in CFH and not CFM... big difference there

Dumb question but how do I tell? The one I have was supplied with the welder.

 

[cruisermatt]

It should be printed on the gauge face. If it was supplied with the welder it is most likely CFH.
I started out with a random gauge I found somewhere and it was CFM and I blew through a ton of gas.

 

[CuCruiser]

Ooh MIG welder!
It's like metal super glue. You're gonna be looking for things to weld now, just for the hell of it. But not just for the hell of it, count it as practice!
I use alot of the flux core wire too. Very handy stuff.

 

[gregnash]

Oh yeah... just picked up the gas cylinder tonight (60cf) and wishing I had picked up an 80 or 100.... next time. Will be practicing as soon as I can so that way I can get those PT Cruiser seats installed. Currently have the drivers side drying inside the house as it hasn't gotten above 36* here lately. Plus, I can use the shampoo'r inside and not worry about freezing my hands off. Used way too much solution on this one though so taking a bit longer to get everything out, but then again I can clean for a bit when I get home from work and by the next day it is dry.

 

[gregnash]

Ok it was either @kev60 or @CenTXFJ60 that did it... but who was the one that recently replaced the L-channel under the lower rear hatch? I had the thread marked but for some reason cannot find it now. Now that I have a welder this is going to be one of the first projects that I undertake and was wondering how large of a piece of L-channel steel you ended up using???? @reevesci J I don't know if you have done this with Blue Marley or one of the others but any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Wife is gone all next week and thinking of playing hookie a day or two to get the inner wheel well taken care of as well as the L-channel..

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Ok it was either @kev60 or @CenTXFJ60 that did it... but who was the one that recently replaced the L-channel under the lower rear hatch? I had the thread marked but for some reason cannot find it now. Now that I have a welder this is going to be one of the first projects that I undertake and was wondering how large of a piece of L-channel steel you ended up using???? @reevesci J I don't know if you have done this with Blue Marley or one of the others but any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Wife is gone all next week and thinking of playing hookie a day or two to get the inner wheel well taken care of as well as the L-channel..

Greg, was not me. The only metal work I did on my build was a rear quarter. Good luck and look forward to seeing it. Jim

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I think that was @FishTown.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Nope not him now that I think of it. He did his rear cross member that snapped.
Hey tell me Greg, on this welder... what do you have it wired to? What's its amperage? I had a chance on a stick welder cheap from a local guy but it would have needed 50 amps and I only have a 100 amp panel so from what I could gather I would have spent more getting the right wiring set up for it.
I'd really like to get a welder but not if I need to upgrade my electrical service. I have no problem running wire but putting in a new panel is more than I'm interested in doing.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Guy up in BC has rebuilt his entire frame... blanking on his name. Something like cruiser diesel? The truck he's working on has 650k miles. His pix was of the odometer.
Not sure if that helps.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

not me

 

[mcguirejohnson]

I think I know what your referring too, if so I fixed it on mine.. Heres a pic, I have a few more if you'd like to see them.

 

[kev60]

Ok it was either @kev60 or @CenTXFJ60 that did it... but who was the one that recently replaced the L-channel under the lower rear hatch? I had the thread marked but for some reason cannot find it now. Now that I have a welder this is going to be one of the first projects that I undertake and was wondering how large of a piece of L-channel steel you ended up using???? @reevesci J I don't know if you have done this with Blue Marley or one of the others but any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Wife is gone all next week and thinking of playing hookie a day or two to get the inner wheel well taken care of as well as the L-channel..

It wasn't me, mine was rusty but I sanded it down and it came out just fine.

 

[gregnash]

Yup that is what I am talking about @mcguirejohnson .... What size steel did you use?

 

[gregnash]

Nope not him now that I think of it. He did his rear cross member that snapped.
Hey tell me Greg, on this welder... what do you have it wired to? What's its amperage? I had a chance on a stick welder cheap from a local guy but it would have needed 50 amps and I only have a 100 amp panel so from what I could gather I would have spent more getting the right wiring set up for it.
I'd really like to get a welder but not if I need to upgrade my electrical service. I have no problem running wire but putting in a new panel is more than I'm interested in doing.

Fel.... I have a 230v 30amp electric dryer circuit in my garage that I am using for the time being. I plan to have an electrician come out in the spring to do some rewiring in the garage and hopefully either build me a direct line at the front of the garage or up the dryer circuit to more than 50amps.

For body work I would probably stay away from a stick welder. I am sure guys like J (@reevesci ) would have no problem stick welding thin body panel, but for us newbs I would go with traditional MIG. I actually got this from a company called AlbanyToolCo on amazon for $495 (minus a $70 amazon gift card) so it was $425 to my door. Hopefully will be able to use it this weekend or coming week!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Gotcha. It was a Lincoln 225 for $175 from CL. Dolley, hood, gloves and the plug I'd need. Guy tried to tell me to run it off a 30 I have avail but I was told it would pop the circuit often.
So you think gas gives better control? More heat? What exactly makes it better than stick?

 

[gregnash]

Gotcha. It was a Lincoln 225 for $175 from CL. Dolley, hood, gloves and the plug I'd need. Guy tried to tell me to run it off a 30 I have avail but I was told it would pop the circuit often.
So you think gas gives better control? More heat? What exactly makes it better than stick?

It may or may not pop the circuit more I think that depends on what you are welding and how much duty cycle it is pulling. I am no expert at this so by all means do your own research and talk with the pros like Jason (@reevesci ) which I have done a fair bit of to figure things out.

Just from what I have seen, MIG will give you more control of what you are doing than stick. Stick is also basically flux core, so you will have slag that you need to chip off once you are done welding. The 225 is the old school, tombstone arc welder. My understanding is they are great for larger, thicker applications (like if you were doing heavy metal repair or maybe frame repair) but not so great for thin sheet metal (like the body panels which are 20ga-ish). Most ARC welders also require a strike to initiate the spark and weld so that makes it more difficult to control in those fine motor skills sections.. If you can, and only plan on stuff like body work then a small 110v MIG should do you fine.