Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe (1 Viewer)

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Thanks all... Yeah I realize that the stock numbers for mpgs was 12-14/15mpg but still I figured I would have gotten better than what I did. I am running 31s but even with that the correction is only like 3% if I remember correctly and that really only adds a few extra miles (think it bumps to like 221 instead of 208). Just really thought I would have done better than 11mpg on the trip. Just makes me want a newer engine that much more, but still love my ole' 2F.

@KWalkerM Nope have not had any issues since I cleaned the terminals so looks like that was the main issue.

We are getting absolutely pounded with wind and rain today (since about 2am). Just ran to do some errands and ended up having to run the AC with the heater to keep the condensation in the truck down to viewable levels. I got a couple rust holes that I think are the main culprit but this was something that started on the trip to Apple Hill last weekend with just the wife and I in the truck (and now funny business going on). Wondering if I have a leak from one of the heater cores that is causing the excess cabin moisture... again I also have some rust holes I am sure are probably contributing...
 
Well s***..

Got the upper tailgate off today, was able to clean up the rust spots that I had starting in a few locations. Luckily the bubbling was nothing more than slight pock marking rust, got it down to good clean metal and covered with rust converter and primer. Then was using my 4yr old HF 1500w heat gun and she FINALLY gave out. Best $20 I have spent but was definitely bummed she died on me.

Did the whole tab repair according to the FrostFighter instructions, get the wife to help me put the gate back up and get it all mounted. Turn on the defroster and.... NOTHING! I have no power to the two small plugs back there, wiper still works just fine but the other two small plugs (there are three plugs back there) have no power to them. I am assuming one is for the squirter motor or light switch and the other is for the power to the defroster. Neither had power... I did check the defog fuse and was good to go, even replaced it just in case. Still nothing.

So looks like I am going to be troubleshooting what happened. Figuring I probably yanked on the wires when I was unmounting the upper gate and lost it for a second. May have broken something but without pulling the headliner back a whole bunch I cant tell.
 
LOL.... ok so that's how it is gonna be. Randomly hit the button for the rear defroster this morning because we actually had a little frost last night from the little bit of rain we got. After about 10 minutes of the truck warming up I come out and get in to leave for work and when I look in the rearview mirror I realize that three lines are actually working!!!! Apparently either I don't know how to use my DVM properly or there is a short that connected again. Anyways, looks like on to step two now which is going through and painting all the lines with the copper line repair.
 
So I am happy report that the FrostFighter repair kit seems to be working. I apparently have breaks in a couple lines that I did not see but will fixes those when I get a chance.

However we have been a bit busy with Christmas Parties for family, friends, work and clients that have invited us. We went to an awesome one last night for a couple of my wife's clients that own a Forbes 500 marketing company that literally they started in their parents front room about 8yrs ago. They took over one of the local restaurants last night and on the community outdoor stage that is right nextdoor they had fire dancers going and putting one a show. Seriously awesome show and party!

Today we took a trip to pick up the wife's Christmas gift. Meet Louie, he will be my mtb'ing trail dog but is the wife's new baby.

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Nice!
 
And little mister had his first ride in the cruiser yesterday!! Getting him used to be tossed around early!!

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Well it was a great Christmas at our house. Louie was the big present but we also got each other some stuff. Wife got me some new accessories for the Land Cruiser....

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KWalkerM said:
Look into an apex trigger kit for the shield, great gun!
Click to expand...

Gonna wait on the Apex kit to see what the Performance Center trigger is like. Supposed to be better than the standard Shield trigger, no gritty feel and less take up from what I have read. It yeah I have been looking at it as I am not a big fan of the split-half trigger.

And already got a few other accessories coming for it. Picked up a kydex holster and dual mag holder from LAG Tactical (local to Reno) with their 25% off Christmas special and then a couple extra 8-round mags from gunmagswarehouse.com. All should be here in a week or two. Oh and got a Talon Grips set for it as well.
 
gregnash said:
Gonna wait on the Apex kit to see what the Performance Center trigger is like. Supposed to be better than the standard Shield trigger, no gritty feel and less take up from what I have read. It yeah I have been looking at it as I am not a big fan of the split-half trigger.

And already got a few other accessories coming for it. Picked up a kydex holster and dual mag holder from LAG Tactical (local to Reno) with their 25% off Christmas special and then a couple extra 8-round mags from gunmagswarehouse.com. All should be here in a week or two. Oh and got a Talon Grips set for it as well.
Click to expand...

Mine is plain jane. Only thing i added was a different back plate with the 2nd amendment. I run a blackhawk level 2 holster for OC, and some random kydex bladetech i think for IWB. Bianchi leather OWB is my favorite though leather level 1 friction retention. Most comfortable but not much retention
 
So now comes the fun part, I HATE ELECTRICAL as it just doesn't quite click with me. So while I am waiting for the butt warmers to come in from China (yes china) I am attempting to figure out how I can do a switched power for the seats.

Since I need to pull my stereo to see what the hell is going on (think my Bluetooth dongle has come loose) I was figuring that I would disconnect the ignition line from the stereo and use that. So my question is, if I do that and run a small buss bar somewhere in the dash, have the IGNITION line go to that then have multiple branch offs for things like the stereo, butt warmers, etc. (things I only want to come on with ignition) will that provide sufficient power or will I need to add a relay in there somewhere? I know that the butt warmers will require their own power, which is fine I can run a line from the engine bay like I did the stereo from my headlight upgrade box, but wondering if I am missing something in there. Again, I am complete window licker when it comes to electrical.
 
Hey Greg, great stuff u got for Christmas! I got a Ruger sp101 357 mag as well, good stuff. Here's what I would do about the electrical. Draw a diagram first, kind of like a plan, it makes the wiring easier. I would get a blue sea box installed and tap from there for everything. You can have a relay in front of it, which can be triggered by the ignition( tap in at cig lighter for the relay switch) and then the blue sea box will be fully powered. Or you can add a relay post box and have at it that way. If you intend to run multiple accessories I'd say add relays separate for all of them. If you just plan to run seat warmers and the stereo out of the bus bar (blue sea box) then I'd add the relay ahead of it for simplicity.
 
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This is what I did for my truck, but mine is 24v and there is a step down in the equation as well. I have a 24v relay triggered by the ignition sending 24v to my step down, then from there the power goes to my blue sea(12v), then I tapped for my accessories. I added a relay for my aux lights post bus bar, as I think it's best to do so. All other accessories such as gauges and my stereo only have fussed circuits and that's it.
 
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I think this may work.
 
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And this is probably the simplest and best way to do it.
 
gregnash said:
So now comes the fun part, I HATE ELECTRICAL as it just doesn't quite click with me. So while I am waiting for the butt warmers to come in from China (yes china) I am attempting to figure out how I can do a switched power for the seats.

Since I need to pull my stereo to see what the hell is going on (think my Bluetooth dongle has come loose) I was figuring that I would disconnect the ignition line from the stereo and use that. So my question is, if I do that and run a small buss bar somewhere in the dash, have the IGNITION line go to that then have multiple branch offs for things like the stereo, butt warmers, etc. (things I only want to come on with ignition) will that provide sufficient power or will I need to add a relay in there somewhere? I know that the butt warmers will require their own power, which is fine I can run a line from the engine bay like I did the stereo from my headlight upgrade box, but wondering if I am missing something in there. Again, I am complete window licker when it comes to electrical.
Click to expand...


Well KWalkerM's electrical advice is this: just plug S*** in until it does something. You also don't need fuses. ever. I never lit Bessie on fire and that was a wonderful combination of legit wiring, non-labeled wiring, and then my wiring. I did carry a fire extinguisher though.

In reality, I spliced a fuse block off the ACC wire in the column because I could not find where the hot was between the Chevy and Mr. T wiring. I would find the hot somewhere else in line and splice from there and run with a covered fuse block (mine was exposed). Outside of the OSHA violations of my wiring I didn't run into issues, however I also was dual batteries so bleed wasn't an issue even if I did have any (I didn't).
Others with more experience on whether that is an issue or not feel free to chime in. Mine worked fine in line from the column YMMV.
 
So I do have a Blue Seas Fuse block that is connected to the fused Bussman block for my light upgrade. Basically if I am reading @mongoose2231 drawings properly I should be able to run a hot line from there (yes its constant hot) to a small busbar or fuse block. Something like this. Then from there go to whatever the item may be. I don't plan to hook up a lot of stuff, mainly the seat heaters, maybe a separate usb block for charging multiple USB items, and then have another one or two in the future for other things. Basically, anything that I would want triggered off ACC for power.
 
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