Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe (1 Viewer)

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If you guys get a fishing weekend going somewhere down the road, give me a heads up and I might be able head up and join you guys.

ill see if the usual rowdy bunch wants to go too but ill hit you up on FB, greg, shoot me a PM if you are on fb, its way easier to coordinate there for all of us.

Kyle, yeah shoot me a text for lunch. I work 4-10: with sat,sun, Monday off.

Darrell we will let you know once we are looking at dates.

sounds good. I will prob head there next week on monday for the engine.
 
Ok so finally got some time to take a crack at welding with some 16ga steel. So I think I did ok other than blowing through when I would go to double back. I think part of it is that I had my amperage to high.

This is with a Lincoln sp-170 and I am using .25 line with gas mixture. Any help is appreciated.

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I must have missed it, but do ya now own a welding machine?
My initial thoughts from seeing your pics is that it looks to me that there is good heat penetration, which is good. But I am still learning. Curious as to how you do, 'Mud insight will prevail.
Did you hear the sound of sizzling bacon?
Mmmmm... bacon.
 
Turn your wire down less heat, so you can slow down a bit for a better weld with even penetration
 
Dan, Yeah a page or so back I am "borrowing" my wife's uncle's welder. His words "You can borrow it until I need it, and as you can see by the layer of dust on it I need it a lot."

Wisco - Ok that is what I was thinking but I was going off the chart inside the door of the weldering. Basically, .25 metal with CO20/25 mix running at C 4.5... What I can't seem to find yet in the manual is whether going up in the alphabet increases or decreases amps and the higher the number the faster the speed???
 
G,

A= Lowest Amp/Volt E= Highest
1= slowest wire speed 10 fastest speed.

A-1 = thin materials - 24 gauge range
E-10= 10 ga or thicker pending process.

New welders tend to have a wormy looking weld because they are excited and in a hurry. Slow down the wire speed and WATCH the puddle. Just because your seam or weld area is going away doesn't mean anything... Keep the puddle molten and watch IT, not the distance you have to go.

I have had so many new welders that don't understand this concept and can't see the puddle. (Don't get frustrated) if you do, go have a beer, coke, bike ride... and STOP for a bit. Frustration only creates more havoc for a new welder.

However, slow it down, pay attention and PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. Develop good habits NOW in the learning stage.

Yes, Danny is correct... a sizzling bacon sound means you are "near" the correct settings.

A vid to watch that will help you out too, IMO..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4RrDeUKcH4

GL and call me if you need too.

J
 
Thanks J much appreciated. I did hear the sound of sizzling bacon at some points and was being conscious of my speed. The blow through is because I would loop back and try to make another bead right below the one I just made, which I believe was the metal being to hot all together and just blowing through. I did see the puddle and was trying to play with it but felt that if I tried to play with it too much then I would blow through.

So in that case would I turn down the wire speed, the amperage or both?
 
Thanks J much appreciated. I did hear the sound of sizzling bacon at some points and was being conscious of my speed. The blow through is because I would loop back and try to make another bead right below the one I just made, which I believe was the metal being to hot all together and just blowing through. I did see the puddle and was trying to play with it but felt that if I tried to play with it too much then I would blow through.

So in that case would I turn down the wire speed, the amperage or both?

On the auto-set/ tap set machines, I would set to the metal/chart and then turn the wire speed down to begin with. I would also, set my gas at around 20 +/- (5) CFH for a decent flow rate.

J
 
Ok thank J... I think part of my problem is that I did not have my gas set properly so when I get a chance to play today I will make sure that it is set properly. Also, since I plan on replacing fenders as my first project should I be practicing on thinner metal? Or is the 16ga sufficient for the time being?
 
you will not be laying beads on the quarter panels. you will only be putting a spot tack here, then there, then over here, back over there, down there, up here, over there, back over up there, then go get a drink.

try welding a bead on the panels, and you will a wrinkled, twisted pretzel of a warped up mess.
 
you will not be laying beads on the quarter panels. you will only be putting a spot tack here, then there, then over here, back over there, down there, up here, over there, back over up there, then go get a drink.

try welding a bead on the panels, and you will a wrinkled, twisted pretzel of a warped up mess.

Yes, Brian is right. Spot/tack the patch panels in. And don't quench the metal either. Bounce around like Brian says. When you get closer to the end, take longer break intervals.

Good advice B

J
 
Ok so what you are saying is, when I get to the panel I will be doing small sections and only be doing spot welds, NO long stack of nickels type things? So basically I will just be connecting the spot welds as I jump around???
 
. It took me 3 hours to spot weld a 9x16 flat panel in partly because I was scared to get it too hot. But it's a blast. And if your not failing your not trying.

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Thanks dude.. yeah it is definitely fun and I find myself already needing more steel to practice on, plus my bottle is almost empty. I have definitely warped the crap out of the 16ga piece of steel but I figured that was going to happen because I am putting a lot of heat on it. Did some more fine tuning today and took a shot at doing spot welds and found that I am trying to be to quick with it. So went to the 1 Mississippi, 2 mississippi, release technique they teach in one of the Mig Welding 101 videos on youtube. Definitely made a difference. Then tried welding a small piece of 16ga x 1" stock to the plate and did alright but my penetration was not very good. So with the next big flat piece I will play with that a little more but that is more advanced than what I am going to be doing at the moment (just replacing those panels and one small piece of body in the back at the 4WD emblem).
 
HAPPY belated BIRTHDAY GREG-O!!
 
Thanks guys.... Ray was nice enough to give me a hell of a lot more rear quarter than I needed so I have some OEM stuff to play with a little. I will try it our as I need to save some to replace the metal behind the 4wd symbol on the tailgate.
 

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