It's all in main't, period. I have 250k on mine, and if i sold it, I'd ask a premium, a rather big one, as it is fully turn key, with ALL records to back everything up, and it doesn't have the horrible MFD. It is completely ready to go and I can speak to everything a buyer would ask and a lot more they wouldn't have a clue about, aside from folks on here. A couple hundred spend a year [ if that ] is so much better than several thousand a year on a payment, but it takes time to get there. These things are worth whatever the buyer feels they are worth.
Finally Bought my 2000 Land Cruiser but... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter xhifer
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I'm confused.... So don't replace the timing belt n water pump every 120k ish? Or yes on the belt.. No on the pump? A belt failure can be catastrophic. I guess a water pump failure not so much
This, just replace all of it while you're in there. I vote for doing the timing belt job yourself, it's not hard, just takes a little time.
I watch the market very closely. I think you got a great deal for an all original rust free vehicle. Find a good local import mechanic and let them do a timing belt, T hoses, waterpump job. It shouldn't cost over a $1000. Have it professionally detailed in and out for $150 bucks. Order new OEM floor mats from ebay or a discounting dealer. The seats can be recovered in vinyl by a good auto upolstry shop or you can order new covers. New tires of your choice and upgrade to a modern CarPlay radio for $400. You will have a vehicle that will hold its value and you will never want to replace. That transmission could be an issue if it was not repaired correctly, hopefully it was a Toyota dealer rebuilt with a dealer warranty. THAT is an expensive item.
I think you did a great job finding a rust-free, one-owner rig that needs a few cosmetic things to make it perfect.
I think you did a great job finding a rust-free, one-owner rig that needs a few cosmetic things to make it perfect.
I’ve got to move to Kansas! $150 everywhere I’ve lived gets me a mediocre interior detail inside OR out. No getting in the cracks, no removing seats, definitely not engine bay or undercarriage. I’d expect to pay $400-500 for a complete in/out detail.
My 2006 LX had a water pump go at 60k. The second one was leaking when I bought it at 132k. A dealer replaced it (with aftermarket! I’m still furious about it) and it was leaking again 15k later. My truck’s 40k into its fourth water pump now at 197k. I’ll hold off on the timing belt job until maybe 250k or 300k if everything holds out.
The formula for long water pump life is pretty simple - genuine Toyota OE part, proper installation, red coolant with timely flushes, and an owner that knows when their water pump has actually failed, not allegedly failed. That water pump allegedly failed at 60k. As a subsequent owner all you really know is that the dealer (probably) successfully sold someone (probably wealthy and gullible) a water pump job. And if you didn't do it yourself you don't know how good a job it was - could easily have been sloppy or even not actually performed. And it was probably pink coolant in both cases. All bets are off with pink coolant. It has a super long life until it seeps out of the cooling system. Watch the data - water pump failures around here tend to fail the criteria in sentence one above - in one or more ways. 4.7s are not hard on water pumps if you treat them right.
I won’t argue with this, you’re probably right. Based on other experiences I’ve had with this truck, all maintenance was done as poorly as possible.
As for my own aftermarket water pump install: Toyota dealer was doing water pump install and I gave them a list of other parts I wanted changed out as well while they were in there. Service desk guy said, “we have a kit for that, includes all the parts you’re listing for another $450” I said, great. Do it. Later (I know, I’m an idiot) when I asked details of the kit for my records since it wasn’t listed clearly on the invoice, they printed me out a spec sheet for a Grainger kit of aftermarket timing belt parts, including water pump. I was charged for full kit on top of original quote and I had to fight to not be double charged for the water pump (after the fact). 14 months later when it was leaking again and swapped out w/ OEM, second dealer told me they took out an aftermarket pump. Original dealer charged me double for water pump and installed the crappy one, put the Toyota one back on their shelf after I paid for it. I was livid but nothing came of it. Sorry for the rant.
Also, what’s wrong with pink? My 2006 I’m pretty sure specifies pink and I assumed it’s overall superior to the red, (new and improved!) and easier: no mixing. I’ve been running pink last four years and it seems to show leaks well (water pump) as well as sealing them effectively to prevent further leaking.
Longer life does sound great but there have been lots of stories on the internet for years about leaks and shorter water pump life. A couple of dealership people have acknowledged the issue to me. And one of Otramms timing belt videos mentions the pink coolant leak problem. It's probably one of those things that was a good corporate move all things considered - just not good for water pump life on older cars, or even newer cars.
Large SUV detail for $150 seemed cheap to me as well but I asked THE person who detailed my 2004 Land Cruiser in 2007 about what his current rate was just out of curiosity on Friday afternoon. I hadn't seem him since that time and we were catching up. I expected $200 at least. Yes, Kansas is a quiet rural oasis of civilization now with high speed internet and Amazon. I hope it stays this way.
No change. Later models, including my 06 came from the factory with pink.
SEK
I just bought a 99 with 160 in which the owner, who I know, said the belt was never done. I've done 2 belts on my tundra (275k miles) so I know the drill. when I pulled off the cover I was surprised to still see the printing on the belt. I'm guess it was done but the owner simply forgot . I'm going to replace it along with just about everything else while it's disassembled .
One thing would check for is rust where the front fenders attach under the side step . the side step must trap water and mine rusted badly. Luckily the damage to the body where it attaches was not bad. I pulled mine off and like the look much better.
One thing would check for is rust where the front fenders attach under the side step . the side step must trap water and mine rusted badly. Luckily the damage to the body where it attaches was not bad. I pulled mine off and like the look much better.
The guy i got mine from says he did the belt and pump... But it's only got 140k. Who knows if he really did. There's no paper work. I should probably check. I'd feel more comfortable if i paid less for the vehicle and did it myself... So ur winning.
I bought our 2000 in 2004 at 31k as a "Certified Pre-Owned" lease return from LA. Did the timing belt at 106k in 2009 +/-. The old one looked brand new. Replaced the belt with a Cont-Tech, new OEM idlers and water pump. Time to do it again now that it has 225k. Still lucky with the original trans, 4 quart drain & fills with Amsoil ATF every 2nd oil change. Still running strong. Had to replace the starter solenoid contacts at 70k. I will keep it and maintain it for the duration regardless of repair costs. The front seats & steering wheel need new covers. Finally disabled the sunroof links since it was stuck tilted up. Got it to collapse flat, sealed it with RTV, and disconnected the switches. Not many other issues. With it's age, it's somewhat cosmetically challenged, tree sap and scratches but I don't care, don't have to worry about scraping it thru the brush when off road. New front rotors 2 years ago, numerous sets of pads, somehow the rears wear out faster than the fronts, prolly from towing a 4500 lb. 20 ft boat all over the West. New tires and OEM shocks all around a few weeks ago. Could use new front CV axles any time now. Other than that, it's a great truck and I would be hard pressed to replace it for what it's worth. It's always cheaper to keep them vs. buying new. These things are tanks and were built to last forever.
whats a horrible MFD?
I believe it's the integrated dispaly on newer models integrated into the stereo. More of a pita to replace with aftermarket. Older models don't have them.
My 2006 lc has nearly 200k miles and has never had one hiccup with the display. I wouldn't call use the horrible word to describe it but i dont need ear drum busting decibels of black sabbath playin either.
