Featured 100 - spressomon

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One other little project I crossed off my list: An air filter vacuum gauge. Simple but for whatever reason I kept procrastinating it.

gaijin on the 200 Forum was my inspiration :)

More about it here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/200-series-cruisers/696551-how-install-wix-24801-air-filter-monitor.html

Its a Wix 24801 Air Filter Monitor. I got mine per gaijin on Amazon.com

5-minutes to install and hopefully it will serve me on all the Nevada, Utah and DV dusty trail runs we do.

Vacuum Air Filter Gauge.webp
 
Thanks for the tip Dan.

At $16, like gaijin said, what's not to like.
 
spressomon said:
One other little project I crossed off my list: An air filter vacuum gauge. Simple but for whatever reason I kept procrastinating it.

gaijin on the 200 Forum was my inspiration :)

More about it here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/200-series-cruisers/696551-how-install-wix-24801-air-filter-monitor.html

Its a Wix 24801 Air Filter Monitor. I got mine per gaijin on Amazon.com

5-minutes to install and hopefully it will serve me on all the Nevada, Utah and DV dusty trail runs we do.
Click to expand...

Dan,

Do you think one could run a hose in cabin to monitor? I think that would be great to see the vacuum during normal driving to monitor airflow. I'm wondering if the 4' of hose would skew the sensor.
 
It only measures vacuum, not flow so hose length won't affect it, common for them to be visible in cab.
If you want something to watch, just pipe a suitable vacuum gauge in, plenty of factory options from Donaldson and many others, dial gauge, electronic, indicator, resettable etc
http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/support/datalibrary/053979.pdf
 
Waiting on the front diff and other front end and shock parts that are in route...but decided, thanks to AndersNO posting his Recaro Ergomed install pics of late, to pull trigger on what hopefully will be a more comfortable/tolerable driver's seat in the spressoWAGON. Brackets are done and I test fitted the seat in the rig this morning. A little TIG and paint spraying and it will be ready to test out on the trail...once the entire front end is back together.

Stay tuned for update on the Recaro Specialist M seat performance...
Recaro Specialist M in 100.webp
 
Dan,

I have had my eyes on the Sparco Chrono's and the Sparco R100's for mine. The price is great, the leg bolster is not very tall and the side bolsters look great. Keep us posted on how the Specialist M holds up! I should be ordering mine very soon. I plan on doing both front seats.
 
Ok...Recaro seat is installed. And on to the tall list of front end PM/R&R work...

This front LCA frame side bushing replacement has been on my to do list for a few years. Since the diff, knuckles and CVs are out it wasn't much more to drop the LCA. But getting this bushing out, actually its only 3/4 out while I run to town to get another piece of steel to enable the last 25% pull :rolleyes:, has been a RPITA to the nth. Had to get creative with anchoring one side of the threaded rod I'm using to pull the bushing out...and about 400-500 ftlbs on the breaker bar side 30 degrees at a time.

FWIW the old bushings weren't that bad...I probably could have gotten by. Oh well.
Lower bushing removal pic.webp
 
Jeebus...DS bushing is finally out...had to use all my favorite tools: Flame, more flame, 2' breaker bar, custom pull/press tools I fabbed up on the cheap, drill, sawzall and about 20 other tools. Fortunately pressing the new bushing in was a cake walk in compare!

Now to build up steam to start the PS side bushing :rolleyes:
photo 1.webp
photo 2.webp
 
^ I can only hope. As you know there just isn't a substitute for hours on end in the seat...to test the seat.
 
Ok...got the PS LCA frame bushing removed in a fraction of the time it took me for the DS. I didn't eff around...drilled the rubber bushing/center support out immediately...then cut, using a sawzall, the outer bushing material (soft steel) front to back...then using a hammer and chisel beat it out.
 
I had an '04 XC70 for 4 years and they didn't fit me very well. But to be fair most seats don't fit me very well. Saab 9000 seats worked for me...but those are antiques now ;)
 
That's one feature the Japanese never figured out especially Toyota: All Americans and arguably the majority of truck buyers are not 5'4" and a buck twenty.
 
Needed to reboot the lower balljoints; one was torn and I had silicone patched it and the other, well I just was curious how contaminated the lube would look after being run for 4-years.

The boot kits are available from Toyota as an OEM part; my good friend Onur Azeri aka beno at Nalley Toyota in Atlanta (OAzeri@nalleycars.com) always takes good care of me.

Replacing the boots is a very simple job once you get the knuckle separated from the ball joint. There is a spring clip that compresses the rubber boot to the groove in the balljoint. Using a small flat blade screwdriver you simply pry the spring clip, slip the boot off and then, using brake cleaner, get all the old contaminated grease out of the top and lower section of the ball joint cavity.

The balljoint boot kit comes with the rubber boot, grease and a spring clip. For whatever reason, I've rebooted these many times over the years, the spring clip Toyota provides in the boot kit is not the same type of clip they use at the factory when they assemble the same. The spring clip in the kit is very soft/pliable steel and very easily distorted when trying to use it as intended. Basically there just isn't a way! The material is very similar to aircraft type safety wire...and that's how I use it to retain the boot to the ball joint; works perfectly.

The flat wire spring clip in the photo is what Toyota uses at the factory (or whatever corp does their lower ball joints and/or LCA). The round wire variant is what is supplied with the boot clip.

And a note about the grease: I'm not sure what type of grease it is, presumably lithium base, but its thick and sticky...the perfect grease for ball joints! The grease within the undamaged boot was 100% clean and uncontaminated. After 4-years of big trail miles I am very impressed!

I posted this for the benefit of those that ask about the reboot process on occasion...hope it helps someone down the trail.

Damaged balljoint boot.webp


Dirty grease on balljoint.webp


Cleaned up balljoint.webp


New grease on balljoint.webp


Safety wired balljoint boot.webp
 
And the last photo of the ball joint kit...and the OEM spring clip as removed from the old balljoint boot.

LC 100 LCA ball joint boot kit.webp
 
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