Featured 100 - spressomon (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter spressomon
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Dan, would you make me a set of those LCA Sliders? Everything I have received from you thus far looks like it was made at AARCO. Great quality and attention to detail!
-Sent from a smartphone that can't spell.
-Sent from a smartphone that can't spell.
- Thread starter
- #444
:whoops:, I didnt make it quite far enough back
No worries...my ROTM thread is turning into a ROTD (Rig Of The Decade) build with tons of posts
- Thread starter
- #445
No problem Paul...we just need to be cognizant of your slider mounts for slider length/placement...I'll get with you after I get back home (in Omaha now with my parents, daughter, et al) to work out the details.
Paul,
Dont you have WKOR sliders? We tried to get these made for mine, but due to the mount, the slider was either going to be way to short, or super long. Right now, i just have some steel welded to the front side of the mount.
Dont you have WKOR sliders? We tried to get these made for mine, but due to the mount, the slider was either going to be way to short, or super long. Right now, i just have some steel welded to the front side of the mount.
Yeah, I have WKOR. I could go with the MTs if that would help.
I dont know if the MT would help. That is a question for Dan. You could weld you WKs and be ok though. It is the bolt that causes the problem. Spresso's sliders are custom with not lip, or bolt below the frame.
When i get rid of my AHC, i am going to add an arm(or 2), weld them and add spresso's mount slider. The design of any bolt on slider does give something to catch on, and metal that drops below the frame.
- Thread starter
- #450
I thought you pulled off something ridiculous where you had nothing hanging down, or did you weld on?
wait, i just re read that, my bad, and damn you for your rediculous skills. But i am right with eh WKORs at least.
dan- i can't believe you have that for a lca slider. I've been thinking about the different ways to protect the mount and i thought of the same thing that you did. This is the first time i've even seen this in a picture. How well does it work? I know the oem mount is pretty crappy. Do you forsee any issue with where the lca slider is mounted to the front of the oem mount? Is it possible that a strong enough impact against the lca slider could cause the front of the oem mount to cave in even slightly? The front of the lca slider is welded to the frame so i suppose not maybe.... I was originally going to make myself one of these as they aren't made for the 100.
I had these on my FJC and they worked well. hmmm... i think i like your lca slider better.
I had these on my FJC and they worked well. hmmm... i think i like your lca slider better.
I think they could be beefed up without worrying about the factory ones caving, as long as you design it right.
- Thread starter
- #455
Thoroughly tested and 100% pleased with the current version. They took substantial hits apart of our Utah trip a couple months ago and proved their worthiness both from a design and materials perspective.
- Thread starter
- #456
Just thought I'd pass this along...
One Timbren bump stop for each front lower control arm is much better than the OEM bumps but still left me wanting. So right before I left for the Utah foray...I had Carl at JT Diffs send me another pair of Timbren front compression bump stops. Thanks Carl for getting those right out the door so I could have and test them on this trip!
I really got to test these out in Utah the past week and the difference is worth the investment! The compression bottom with 2 Timbren's mounted for each lower arm is much more "rounded" and without the abrupt bottom out when compared to 1 Timbren per side. They're not quite in the Light Racing jounce shock arena...but $$$ less
Dan
FWIW:
I recently discovered
Timbren relies upon the OEM front control arm compression bump stop for definitive compression stop. So using 2 Timbren bump stops per front lower control arm like I've been using, although much better compression control/damping, leaves you with a potentially vulnerable situation if you really compress the front suspension on a big hit. Under full hard compression sans both of the OEM front bump stops your ball joint/spherical bearing will be over-extended. And that's not good. Just fair warning for those that might be running two front Timbren bump stops per side.
FWIW:
I recently discovered
Just fair warning for those that might be running two front Timbren bump stops per side.
Did you find out the hard way?
- Thread starter
- #458
^ yep. Cost me 1/2 a ball joint . Could have been much worse though.
. Could have been much worse though.
- Thread starter
- #459
After swapping in the latest incarnation from the Toyota engineers of the ignition's intermediate shaft yesterday as a solid DIY PM project I moved back to my OBAv2 system for a little mod.
The Sanden compressors are designed to push oil/lube rich freon throughout the system whereas an OBA system should keep the lubricant on the crank side of the pistons, as much as possible, and away from the head side of the pistons is supposed to be mobetta. This is also a little mod that is apart of converting the Sanden to a grease based lube system.
For airing up tires the small amount of oil vapor that exits isn't a factor. However for filling air mattresses, blowing the dust out of the rig at the end of a dusty trail day, etc., I'd like cleaner air. And my OCD ways contributed to this project too
Not quite ready to go to grease but wanting to try to keep more of the lubricating oil on the crank side and away from downstream pressurized side of this system I'm opting to stay with oil for now.
There are a few threads out on the interweb about this conversion so I wasn't reinventing the wheel. However all the threads I've seen pertain to the 508 Sanden which is a 5-cylinder. Basically you drill, tap and thread in a Loctite coated grub screw into the small hole in the head's reed plate to help keep oil from being pushed downstream of the crank side.
Since I'm running an SD7, a 7-piston Sanden, I discovered I had two not one of these ~5.2mm holes in the reed plate. It really wasn't conducive to push the diameter of these holes out to 1/4" diameter grub screws, the next viable size given the diameter of the holes in the SD7, so I opted to TIG them shut. To keep the filler rod from flowing past the critical piston side (not a big deal if you have a surface grinder...but I don't) I used a small copper plate...worked great. This eliminated the need to dress the piston side of the holes you see in the photo. Not pretty but it'll get the job done.
The 2nd part of this project, since plugging these holes prevents breathing of the crankcase of the Sanden, is installing a crankcase vent. Another thread I found on-line used an ARB solenoid switch for this purpose. So I've got one ordered...but essentially I'll run the ARB solenoid switch (from their lockers), connected to the switched compressor clutch so activation is apart of the clutch engagement (this is a good thing), from a tee fitting atop the Sanden. The other side of the tee fitting goes downstream to a return from my coalescing filter.
More to come after I receive the ARB solenoid switch.
of the ignition's intermediate shaft yesterday as a solid DIY PM project I moved back to my OBAv2 system for a little mod.The Sanden compressors are designed to push oil/lube rich freon throughout the system whereas an OBA system should keep the lubricant on the crank side of the pistons, as much as possible, and away from the head side of the pistons is supposed to be mobetta. This is also a little mod that is apart of converting the Sanden to a grease based lube system.
For airing up tires the small amount of oil vapor that exits isn't a factor. However for filling air mattresses, blowing the dust out of the rig at the end of a dusty trail day, etc., I'd like cleaner air. And my OCD ways contributed to this project too
Not quite ready to go to grease but wanting to try to keep more of the lubricating oil on the crank side and away from downstream pressurized side of this system I'm opting to stay with oil for now.
There are a few threads out on the interweb about this conversion so I wasn't reinventing the wheel. However all the threads I've seen pertain to the 508 Sanden which is a 5-cylinder. Basically you drill, tap and thread in a Loctite coated grub screw into the small hole in the head's reed plate to help keep oil from being pushed downstream of the crank side.
Since I'm running an SD7, a 7-piston Sanden, I discovered I had two not one of these ~5.2mm holes in the reed plate. It really wasn't conducive to push the diameter of these holes out to 1/4" diameter grub screws, the next viable size given the diameter of the holes in the SD7, so I opted to TIG them shut. To keep the filler rod from flowing past the critical piston side (not a big deal if you have a surface grinder...but I don't
) I used a small copper plate...worked great. This eliminated the need to dress the piston side of the holes you see in the photo. Not pretty but it'll get the job done.The 2nd part of this project, since plugging these holes prevents breathing of the crankcase of the Sanden, is installing a crankcase vent. Another thread I found on-line used an ARB solenoid switch for this purpose. So I've got one ordered...but essentially I'll run the ARB solenoid switch (from their lockers), connected to the switched compressor clutch so activation is apart of the clutch engagement (this is a good thing), from a tee fitting atop the Sanden. The other side of the tee fitting goes downstream to a return from my coalescing filter.
More to come after I receive the ARB solenoid switch.
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- Thread starter
- #460
I've had a health issue since early December that kept me from moving forward with the t-case swap (with Marlin's 3:1 low range gear set). That's another project I hope to get done in the next month or less.
