Featured 100 - spressomon (1 Viewer)

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PM work that went further into the gopher hole when I discovered the front diff set-up issue. So figured now's the time to get a few related items shored up that have been nagging at me. There are several layers to the IFS set-up on the 100 platform. So once you peel back a couple layers of the proverbial onion (hubs, steering knuckles, cvs, diff, LCA bushings, etc.,) its conducive to just go ahead and do the extra PM stuff. Saves time later on...

Fox shock parts arrived on Friday...new shock oil, seals, main body (dinged the original), hoses and a new tune stack to experiment with; reassembled the shocks and now just waiting for the diff to come back...then its put it all back together time :)
 
Don't peel back the layers! I need to install my SPC UCAs. But then the list of while I'm at it things piled up too high. Wheel bearings, lower ball joint, longer front shocks, Brake pads, brake rotors, SS brake lines, rebuild Brake master cylinder, flush brake fluid...
 
The Recaro seat, of course, doesn't have any storage so I decided to give my hand at a little sewing project: The spressoFAB Recaro Seat Back Organizer :D I looked around for an off the shelf seat back organizer to no avail. So I decided to get to know my little Sailrite sewing machine a little better ;)

Other than a few very simple sewing projects this one was a few notches up in complexity and challenge scale. And of course, like most things we fab, subsequent versions would be hopefully better and impart a couple more little design tweaks.

Still need to trim a few stray threads, etc. But it will carry my maps and more. Excuse those large bartacks for the upper straps...obvious I need more stitch time practice :D

spressoFAB Recaro Seat Back Organizer.jpg
 
Looks like you need a better way to secure that lower strap than what you've got there.

:D
 
^ :D I didn't have any SS button heads in M8-1.25...and need a standoff then it will at least look better. Hardware run to Carmel Valley tomorrow...
 
Texted what I have to you...and here for other's reference. The seat belt transferred over to the Recaro's threaded mount...easiest part of the whole deal. I also didn't want to look at the seat belt light on the dash so I also, using a Toyota OEM connector 1/2 and pigtails Onur/beno sourced for me, spliced it in to the seat belt after I installed it onto the Recaro chassis.

To make up the height difference between the OEM and Recaro I used 1-1/2" square tube...and the Recaro seat rail brackets also have 3 different (stationary)height adjustments front and back...to a wide range of height and/or tilt to front or back adjustments.

Recaro, OEM compare.jpg
Recaro, OEM compare 2.jpg
Recaro bracket 1.jpg
Recaro Specialist M in 100.jpg
 
Looks pretty darn good to me D... Smitty makes a "tactical" style, but $$$. Nice work man.

J

Next version, if there is a next version :D, will incorporate a different top pocket...easily could have made this one taller with smaller pockets sewn to the outside of it. And/or incorporate Molle type webbing...for more universal/versatile adaptation for whatever items need to be held/attached.
 
^ I imagine you checked out the Sailrite 111? The customer service, pre and post sale, has been five star.
 
Wow. The Recaro retrofit looks bloody amazing.
That said, the OEM's are some of the most comfortable I have ever experienced. The VW Phaeton remains the gold standard for me.
 
^ It's all AndersNo's fault :)...he recently installed a 'luxe Recaro and was the proof source for me.

The last few years leg pain started after an hour of seat time. It truly was excruciating at times and required frequent stops to mitigate the pain. Most are fortunate to be comfortable on the OEM seats...and save the $ for other mods.

I just hope :princess: doesn't feel neglected :D...
 
Sew happy this week :D...been wanting a little pocket to stow my air pressure gauge, deflators, knife, etc. on/near the B Pillar. Done.

LC B Pillar Pocket.jpg
 
So after I got the front diff back last week, from yet another trip around the same block (different diff set-up guy this time), I noticed diff lube seeping from the pinion seal.

I know I'm not the best of listener at times :D...but I did specifically 'splain, to my new diff guy (on no less than three occasions), how the rig isn't exactly a grocery getter and if any parts within the diff are even remotely questionable to replace them...and use OEM parts. Its not like it was a rush job or anything...he had 8-weeks to get the thing done!

So...I got the last pinion/companion flange ordered earlier this week. I was told it was the only companion flange in the entire Toyota USA distribution system...and it only had to come to Cali via Kentucky or Kansas City depending upon which Salinas Toyota parts guy you want to believe.

Since no expedited shipment can be had for these types of parts orders I had to wait until yesterday to pick up the parts from Salinas Toyota. But hey...I'm not complaining as it could have been next week or worse before getting the parts in hand.

This morning I swapped the new pinion/companion flange in along with a new seal of course and pinion nut.

You be the judge...but looks damn obvious to me.

Companion Flange Compare.jpg
 
Not only does it look obvious, but it appears the design changed a little as well ......
 
Not only does it look obvious, but it appears the design changed a little as well ......

The new companion flange, 41204-60040, came with the dust seal mounted. Sean at River City Diffs, Sacramento, when he did the original ARB & 4.88 install, must have decided the dust seal wasn't something I really needed...:rolleyes:
 
A very small but useful, simple and cheap mod: Better illumination from the anemic OEM glove compartment lamp.

Parts: Sourced from VLEDS
1) 12" white 5k interior strip light, 3 chip 18 LED with 3M VHB adhesive back (STRIP_3C_INT_W_5K): $7.50
1) DIY-LED base adapter 74: $1.00
1) DIY-2 wire extension 12 inch: $1.50

Remove the tiny #74 size filament bulb from the glove box light fixture (sorry...no pics but this is a point 1 banana job ;))...and swap in the base adapter and wire extension (disclosure: I can't remember if I actually used the extension wire or not...but given its only $1.50 have it on hand just in case).

Trim the LED strip to width. Using alcohol and a clean rag wipe the area of the dash, just above where the top glove box lip resides when its in the closed position. Press the LED strip into place and let it sit for 72-hours...this is the time it takes 3M VHB to fully "cure". Connect the LED strip to the adapter wire and secure the excess wire as necessary so not to bind/get pinched when the glove box is opened/closed.


photo 3.jpg
photo 2.jpg
VLEDS Glove Box LED Kit Order .png
 

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