Featured 100 - Snook

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$24,864.22

:D


Uh...locally the estimate is $15-17K to get this done as a one-off. If I was a super successful salesman instead of a oneabee...then maybe ;). Speaking of which (the former...not the latter): John this should be right up your alley...:D
 
Uh...locally the estimate is $15-17K to get this done as a one-off. If I was a super successful salesman instead of a oneabee...then maybe ;). Speaking of which (the former...not the latter): John this should be right up your alley...:D

I don't have the $15-17K. It went on ending the vibes to my LX450. :D

Snook's truck has some pretty cool mods on it. It looks like he knows how to do a lot of tricky stuff labor-wise too. I wonder what's next up?
 
what's this thread about? oh yeah Jay's truck :rolleyes:

Jay, thanks for the writeup. I didn't realize you could tint the windshield but I asked my tint place. I tinted the windshield on my 80 and it's a big difference! Much better!:cheers:
 
Yeah...sorry for the little detour :frown:.
 
Is that the same guy that drove your rig through Deer valley Last weekend? :eek:

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Is that the same guy that drove your rig through Deer valley Last weekend? :eek:
Rusty_tlc

Yes, that's the same guy and by the way, he does have the fastest hand in the West.

Everytime we need to go somewhere with my truck, my son took my UZJ100 key before I can even move a inch, sigh.

Cheers,
 
Obviously this home brew design didn't work out too well. Does Slee or anyone else have a heavy duty professional alternative to making your own??

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Yeah, but don't you need it for on road travel?
 
Yeah, but don't you need it for on road travel?


Loaded question. Generally the sway bar makes handling more stable on-road. But it all depends how fast you want to go ;). But if the rear sway bar has little effect on articulation then other than weight what would be saved by removing it?

Maybe that's why the LC 100's have so much suspension roll when cornering on-road...more flexible/undersized sway bars?
 
So did you chuck yours in the garbage? What use does it serve by being on the truck then?
 
So did you chuck yours in the garbage? What use does it serve by being on the truck then?


It benefits road handling. And apparently not to the detriment of articulation. If I had time I'd try it without the sway bar in the rear...but I suspect it actually does add some control/anti-lean capabilities for on-road handling. If not then I'd gladly yank it and save the weight...

Someone on this board has probably tried it on the road without the rear sway bar...hopefully we'll get a chime in.
 
It benefits road handling. And apparently not to the detriment of articulation. If I had time I'd try it without the sway bar in the rear...but I suspect it actually does add some control/anti-lean capabilities for on-road handling. If not then I'd gladly yank it and save the weight...

Someone on this board has probably tried it on the road without the rear sway bar...hopefully we'll get a chime in.

I have run with and without the rear swaybar on and offroad.

Most of last year, I had it off. Removing it achieved what I wanted - more offroad comfort! I spend most of my time on the rocky trails in Colorado. When the swaybar is doing it's job, it causes the body to pitch back and forth when going over uneven obstacles. When you remove the swaybar, you allow the axle to articulate without feedback from the body position. So, rather than being tossed side to side as you bump down the trail, you sit more level while letting the suspension do all the work. The on trail difference was very noticeable and the ride was much more comfortable. While travel does not increase, the axle compresses much more easily and hence you get more performance on the trail. In fact, with my 2" bump stops, and 35's, my tires would not rub on anything with the swaybar on. With the swaybar off on the exact same obstacles, I would lightly rub on my Slee bumper. That's a minute example, but it highlights the difference. There's also another benefit as well, when it's off you don't have it hanging down below the axle tube (made worse by the lift) and getting hung up on rocks (I have done this).

On road, I did get more sway on the mountain roads, but it was not terrible. However, I have removed the swaybars on my other offroad wagons and I am use to the lean.

Unfortunately, I just put my swaybar back on because I'm installing an AO rack, RTT, gas cans, etc on the roof and I want the extra control on the highway now! :)
 
Yeah, I tried to make a quick release like I did with my 4Runner but on UZJ100 once both side of sway bar is disconnected, the ends of sawp bar will dropped almost one foot pointing downward. I'm not sure how to keep it hanging yet disconnected?

The sway bar stopped at 8" becuase of interfence with the parking brake cable on the other side of axle.


Instead of building brackets to drop down to the sway bar ends, why not just lengthen the sway bar? Cut the ends off, extend out equally on both sides, and weld the ends back on???

Anyone tried that?
 
Instead of building brackets to drop down to the sway bar ends, why not just lengthen the sway bar? Cut the ends off, extend out equally on both sides, and weld the ends back on???

Anyone tried that?

I asked Christo to do that for me when I took mine off. He took a look at it, and said that cutting the links was the wrong way to go in this application due to the twisting forces. He said he would need to fab up a different mounting bracket instead.
 
Instead of building brackets to drop down to the sway bar ends, why not just lengthen the sway bar? Cut the ends off, extend out equally on both sides, and weld the ends back on???

Anyone tried that?


Yes: I extended my sway bar brackets (actually the connector rod not the bracket itself) by 50mm when I did my 4.88/35" conversion. Next will be an adjustable pan hard and adjustable upper control arms.
 
Yes: I extended my sway bar brackets (actually the connector rod not the bracket itself) by 50mm when I did my 4.88/35" conversion. Next will be an adjustable pan hard and adjustable upper control arms.

What differences have you noticed with the longer sway bar link? Did you use thicker material?
 
What differences have you noticed with the longer sway bar link? Did you use thicker material?


I used thicker wall rod and larger OD. The biggest difference is now I am not maxxing out the travel position of the rod. Before I lengthened it, and after my 864/4.88/35" install, I darn near pulled one of the top bushings/bracket assembly off the rig. The sway bar ends now sit at the same angle/position as stock lift or darn close.

I need to really get the other two mods done soon (as soon as I get another DD to allow the rig to be down for more than a night)...the PS rear tire rubs on the frame (due to the pan hard rod not being lengthened for the ~4" lift) and causes a strange feeling leverage thing going on in the rear suspension due to the non-lengthened pan-hard (and maybe the pivot point of the pan hard rod is responsible for this too); and I want to get my pinion angle and coil spring perches back to stock-ish.

More items for my list...the darn list is growing faster than I can mark the items off as completed :rolleyes:.
 

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