WOW what a bad ass truck .nice job on the shower! and all your other mods .the inverter is killer .
your site is much enjoyed. and your bumper is killer and the truck is bad to the bone ......
thanks jonah
However I have underestimated the movement of sway bar. The geometry of sway bar is so great that one of the long bolts was bended! So some modified will be made to let the bolts have angular movements.
We had a first full system shower run today! Kids went nuts over it!
At first there are some drips from two or three hoses internally so we tightened those loose clamps and leaking stopped
The heat water exchange produced a bit hotter water than expected when the red handle is in HOT position. At 50/50 cold/hot mix position, the water is lukewarm just as hoped for.
This M416 trailer was purchased from US Marine in San Deigo thru (intense & fast) internet bidding 5 years ago.
The custom tailgate & beefed up fenders was done on this 1967 M416 trailer, thanks to Amando's tools and it remained unchanged since then.
Originally I was planning to add water system to this trailer like what Brett "DieselBigot" did to his M101CN however the trailer do not provide "heat source" to warm up the water.
Although Overland tent (Italian made) is a queen size, they pushed me out so I ended up sleeping inside my truck....
The Overland tent is bolted to three redwood/yamaha bars. Since 2x4 redwood covers the Yamaha tube bar, I can step on the middle of bar without bended the yamaha bar.
Three redwood bars, held by removeable metal pins, is removable from the trailer. OverLand is lift to the garage ceiling with pulley ropes system, using same redwood bars underneath.
This trailer is quite often used as a dumpster during my house work.
Make it quick release for the trail and attached normally for the street. Your truck is much safer on the freeway with the swaybar working as it should.
In fact, you could just pull off the sway bar for trail work and re-attach for everything else.
Make it quick release for the trail and attached normally for the street. Your truck is much safer on the freeway with the swaybar working as it should.
In fact, you could just pull off the sway bar for trail work and re-attach for everything else.
Yeah, I tried to make a quick release like I did with my 4Runner but on UZJ100 once both side of sway bar is disconnected, the ends of sawp bar will dropped almost one foot pointing downward. I'm not sure how to keep it hanging yet disconnected?
The sway bar stopped at 8" becuase of interfence with the parking brake cable on the other side of axle.
I like what Shotts did to his Step-by-Step 5-year buildup truck, no, no, not the dirty "L".
He added a steel angle under his rear control arms for extra protection. I decided to go a step further, adding one more steel angle on the top of the arm for max strength.
He added a steel angle under his rear control arms for extra protection. I decided to go a step further, adding one more steel angle on the top of the arm for max strength.
Actually, the sway bar could just be removed for more difficult trips-Deer Valley would qualify if you are doing that in 2 weeks. Otherwise, just leave it connected. Alvaro's truck was much safer feeling even with just the front sway re-attached. I'll be curious to see what you come up with.
Your rig has come a long way! You've got a very ingenious shower set-up. I'm very curios to see what you come up with for water storage. I guess if you forgot to tighten those internal hoses, you would find a NEW way of storing water
As far as the custom paint, I got a few cans mixed up at a local paint shop in Fremont. They can mix any oem paint color in a spray can for $25. I painted my front bumper that way and I think it looks great. No need to use your sprayer for such a small area.
Could you simply attach one end of the sway bar to one of the rear trailing arm, while leaving the other end free? The sway bar will move with that trailing arm but I don't know if it'll hit anything in your 100. This is what I used to do in my 80 w/o any ill effects.
Could you simply attach one end of the sway bar to one of the rear trailing arm, while leaving the other end free? The sway bar will move with that trailing arm but I don't know if it'll hit anything in your 100. This is what I used to do in my 80 w/o any ill effects.
The benefits of a disco'd rear sway are minimal, though I enjoyed wheeling without mine (for a short time).
The benefits of a disco'd front sway are notable as the front will compress much easier on a lifted 100. The trick would be to make this happen. Right now, you must remove a T-bar in order to remove the sway.
The benefits of a disco'd rear sway are minimal, though I enjoyed wheeling without mine (for a short time).
The benefits of a disco'd front sway are notable as the front will compress much easier on a lifted 100. The trick would be to make this happen. Right now, you must remove a T-bar in order to remove the sway.
Perfect selling point to do away with the t-bars, redo the shock mounts, coil-overs with custom upper and lower control arms, kicked out an inch, remote bypass Foxes...presto.
Perfect selling point to do away with the t-bars, redo the shock mounts, coil-overs with custom upper and lower control arms, kicked out an inch, remote bypass Foxes...presto.
Perfect selling point to do away with the t-bars, redo the shock mounts, coil-overs with custom upper and lower control arms, kicked out an inch, remote bypass Foxes...presto.
