Builds FARM USE

[miller]

The first thing is I found out that I forgot to put air cleaner bracket on when torquing head. Pulled both bolts installed are cleaner bracket and torqued. Put radiator back in and ran truck for 10 minutes. The oil now has milk streaks on dipstick. I used a cheap rock auto head gasket also. The other issue is it will go into gear but will not turn back wheels and starts to smoke like crazy which I think is the clutch. Tranny and transfer case both have oil. In neutral I can rotate drive shaft and with a small borescope can see gears in transfer and tranny move. In gear locked up solid. Inside of both cases look good with borescope. I’m thinking need to pull tranny hump and look inside top cover. No metal on drain plugs.

 

[miller]

Drake2 told me about this land cruiser museum. I have been coming out to salt lake for past 10 years snowboarding did not know it was there. My boys and I checked it out didn’t want to leave!

 

[sggoat]

23300-30012 Fuel Filter Assembly

Toyota South Atlanta has the assy--the bowl is 23313--~$8

 

[sggoat]

OEM head gasket is nla--some folks say the fel-pro is a good alternative--Toyo still has the headbolts, plugs,expansion plugs, valve guides, valve cover gasket--check w/Mark's off road--he may have a source.
If you removed only two head bolts then re-installed, the whole torque sequence was compromised--head should be opened back up to verify the gasket hasn't failed(gonna need a new gasket any way if you take it off)--do it soon, before the gasket gets stuck to everything(make it easier to clean--)
SOR has a page that shows the tightening torque sequence for the F and 2F heads(I will tell you for sure that their sequence for a 2F is incorrect) but the one they show may be correct for an F engine.
Attached is the Haynes manual sequence--it is not correct for the 2F either, but may be for the F., and the SOR specs they are different also--there are some references to this in the FAQs--look for Max Ellerbee(don't think that listing shows the visual sequence--only the bolt specs)-- chose your poison
If you have access to a factory serv manual-follow that--both for loosening the bolts and installing.

 

[miller]

I hate doing stuff twice! I have to pull valve train back out to install new orings and clean so I will pull it back off. I’m guessing that is what happened unless the block is cracked somewhere. Thanks for the input.

 

[sggoat]

I hate doing stuff twice! I have to pull valve train back out to install new orings and clean so I will pull it back off. I’m guessing that is what happened unless the block is cracked somewhere. Thanks for the input.

Understand this is only my opinion--There are many out there on the forum--the fact that you are seeing "milky" oil is a bad sign, and COULD be related to the head bolt removal--But, the head is a pretty stout chunk of heavy metal, and the fact you only removed two bolts MAY not have compromised the head gasket--just the torque sequence.
There are a lot of posts about the advisability of 're torquing' the head bolts after a few miles running after a head reinstall-some say yes, some say no.
Did the cooling system have antifreeze in it when you discovered the milky oil? If so, you might be able to drain a small amount of the crankcase 'liquid' , put in a glass container and let it sit o'nite. If there is coolant in the oil, it should separate out with the coolant at the bottom. You might be able to see a color change, or 'smell' of whatever is in the bottom.
If it smells/looks like antifreeze, I don't know any other oil/water interface except the head(gasket)----{don't think 'F' engines ever had an oil cooler}--
Again, this apparent coolant leak into the oil system could also be related to a nick,bend/crush of the gasket when the head was originally installed, and may not have any relation to the two bolt removal.
The block crack is another issue altogether--that may only show up after the engine heats up--but it could be the culprit, as you speculated.
There have to be other members who have dealt withe this same issue--
Get more opinions--Check the FAQ--I'll try to find related posts that might help--

 

[miller]

Pulled tranny cover everything looks fine. I think that was just me watching the tire not turn but the other one probably was. Replaced gear oil and closed it up. Started and ran through all gears watching drive shaft now that tranny hump is removed. Pressure tested cooling system and it holds at 15 psi. Drained a pint of oil letting that settle to see if it has coolant in it.

 

[miller]

Oil looks good.

 

[miller]

Ran engine up to temp. Idles fine. Restarts hot , but man does this thing smoke when u give it the gas! Blue smoke so my guess is lower end wore out. I took compressions after head gasket was installed and just now on a hot engine. #3 is now 75 psi. Maybe needs another valve adjustment?All plugs have oil on them but are firing.First picture after head installed, second warm engine.

 

[miller]

Well good news is the vacuum operated transfer case still works. I was surprised. The Engine still smokes like a chimney. Pressure tested cooling system to 22 psi. It holds pressure. Performed a cylinder leak down test at 90 psi and all are 78-80% leak down except #6 is 35%. You can hear the air in the bottom end with the oil fill cap off. Has anyone seen this bad of numbers across the board? The pistons and valves all are wet with oil which is why this thing smokes so bad(looked with borescope) I guess that lower end is wore out. It’s odd I had good compression numbers after installing rebuilt head and now they are a lot lower After running maybe 30 minutes. This thing sat a long time. Do I just need to run the crap out of it for a while Or start rebuilding the 2f I have?

 

[mrboatman]

A lot of times when you get the top end tight the worn bottom end will just give up, it just can't handle the extra pressure. Is your smoke out the tail pipe?

 

[miller]

Yes cold or warm.

 

[mrboatman]

I would say warn or stuck rings. I was asking because my f engine has a couple small holes on the top sides of a piston and runs great but builds so much blow-by and it's crazy how much it smokes out the valve cover vent and nothing out the tail pipe.

 

[sggoat]

Rebuilt head may have closed up some holes, now you may be seeing the lower end showing wear that was contributing(leak-down seems to be showing this)--your compr test shows 4 cylinders way under spec--that tells me the cylinder wear may be advancing due to long use, plus the inspection results showing oil in all the cylinders.
Were all the valve guides/seals replaced when the head was done?(that may contribute to the smoking when the engine is first started, but usually clears after a few minutes running-and it normally is not affected by RPM increase)
My guess is your assessment is correct--
Unsure why the original pics of the cylinders with oil in them showed no loss of oil while you had the head off--I would have expected a significant loss based on the compression numbers you are now seeing-strange--but I would have to believe the instruments--the numbers are telling you the bottom end is leaking--if you would like to measure the cylinder bores, I have a set of telescoping gauges you could use to accurately measure the cylinder bores--yours for the asking--just send 'em back when you are done--(don't have a caliper large enough for the pistons-sorry)
Gary

 

[miller]

The head did get new valve stem seals and checked to make sure they were all installed. It does not list valve guides on report so maybe they were in spec.Did not hear any air come out exhaust pipe or carb. I have a 2 foot piece of pipe Off the exhaust manifold. Thanks for the offer on tools I do have access to some through work. It probably would have been a good idea to check the bores while I had the head off lol.

 

[miller]

I have seen seafoam do some good things so added some to cylinders and let soak. I’m just going to run this thing and see what happens. I checked valve lash again and made a few tweaks nothing major. I did a leak down on the spare 2f. They all came in around 38%. The lowest compression on this motor is 115. My thought is to pull it apart next winter and rebuild or just go through it. I ordered softtop from dirt road tops. It takes 7 months so figured I would get that going.

 

[MDH33]

Keep up the good work. It's a slog when you can't drive it and chip away at repairs. Do what needs doing to get it rolling.

You'll love oem style soft top.

 

[miller]

A 40 has to have a winch. The 8274 is a bit too spendy right now so bought this xd9000. Probably the last thing I should have spent money on lol!

 

[Pighead]

It'll probably be years before you need it, but every LandCruiser needs a winch.
I did the right thing and waited to win one in a raffle.

 

[miller]

I would be waiting forever I never win anything lol!