Here's an example of the low-e glass, it does have a tint to it. I didn't care for it, but have grown used to it. Mine's the green one with the low-e glass.
Builds Farm Fresh LV (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter JLawson
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To be honest, I really don't know. The 55 stays pretty darn cool inside, but I think most is due to all the Lizard Skin everywhere. The e- glass is thicker (1/4") than stock OEM glass and had a fitment issue with the door track moldings. I do like that the tint matched the new windshield tint, all a light green color.
Yes, inside the floor and on the bottom, both products and then a couple coats of Monstaliner spray on bed liner inside and out.
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I actually think that looks really good mate. Really, really good actually.
Thanks! Picking out things like color, etc. was one of the hardest for me to do. The glass seems to go well with the green paint.
- Thread starter
- #108
Been busy with other stuff, you know the job and all. But finally got a couple days and here is what two gallons of Lizard Skin will do for an LV. Pretty much a perfect amount for the first coat. The only thing missing is the doors and tailgate. I have a little bit left over from the 55 and may use that inside the doors. Masked off the dash and was able to get up under there and in the glove box much better than I thought. I will wait till the end of the day and spray the next coat of the sound proof. The ceramic coat will go down Sunday is the plan. Got to wait 24 to 36hrs between the two diferent coats. Then another 24 to 36 and I plan to spray a protective coat of white to match the dash and interior color. Lizard Skin says it needs a top coat of something and I plan to put either carpet or vinyl down over the floor so I am using the white because I bought way too much of it! 
But i am psyched to be turning the corner and getting to the finishing stage.
Then on to wiring!?
Not so confident on that so I will be asking a lot of questions. Got a Painless harness and looking for the best and easiest way to go about it. I have almost nothing of the original wiring. Head light buckets, rear taillights, turn signals and marker lights in the front. And that's about it.
But i am psyched to be turning the corner and getting to the finishing stage.Then on to wiring!?
Not so confident on that so I will be asking a lot of questions. Got a Painless harness and looking for the best and easiest way to go about it. I have almost nothing of the original wiring. Head light buckets, rear taillights, turn signals and marker lights in the front. And that's about it.
- Thread starter
- #111
Found a good work around for all the LV's. I have been looking for the bolt covers in the front doors and finally found something that fits! They are not as nice as the originals but they fit really well and don't look half bad. They will set you back $4/ plus shipping so $27 for all. A bit high but I had found nothing else that was even close.
- Thread starter
- #112
Painting in the summer is HOT!!! Must have dropped ten pounds of sweat inside that suit and the mask. Had to really watch it not to drip sweat on everything. But it is done ......almost. Still got the tailgate and a few other pieces and maybe a touch up or two. But its 85% done!
Looking good!
Nice I’ll send mine over since you’ve had all that experience it should be a peice of cake.
- Thread starter
- #115
Bring it on Tancrusier. All it takes is 8 gallons of lizard skin, a half gallon of paint and another gallon of sweat! Just checked it all today and it has dried well. Even the spots where I went back and touched up with a brush. The paint was hard to cover the Lizard Skin. You really had to put some paint down for it to get down into the texture and cover completely. I have the tailgate top and bottom and the dash and the rest of the interior that is taped off yet to go but I am pleased with how it turned out. The panels have really quieted down and I did not use a thermometer but the roof in the sun was hard to keep your hand on but the underside was significantly cooler so I think the ceramic coating is working. I will try the get one of those laser thermometers and get some numbers. What's the consensus on fuel lines? Hard, soft, ss braided? I like the idea of limiting the number of fittings with all hose and it sounds like the ss braided ptfe hose is good stuff? Anyone use this and the AN fittings? I am installing an in tank fuel pump and a new sending unit as well. The sending unit will screw right in where the old one was and I will drill a 3.25" hole for the pump next to it so it is accessible through the panel in the rear deck. I ordereda carbon filter vent that I believe will fit in the rear quarter panel by the tailight. I will drill a hole down and vent it under the body.
Nice work I wish I had the time and space.
Wow that's great commitment to your project. This rivals the 3 days and 3300 miles later thread! Keep up the great work.
- Thread starter
- #119
After painting the LV I wanted to pass on my experience with HF spray guns. I read as much as I could find about what I would need and decided to give the HF $15 gun and regulator set. I was ready to paint and went to clean the gun. First problem was that the supplied wrench that is stamped steel was barely able to remove the top and when it broke lose the tip would not come lose from the front of the gun. I figured no worries, I can still clean it out. Well, the “goop” they put inside the gun to keep it from corroding had turned hard as a rock and was not coming out. They recommend cleaning with warm soap and water? Laquer thinner wouldn’t even touch it. The trigger pin was so rusted I had to pull it with pliers. I finally decided to return it and try again. Got back to my shop with a new gun and this one was so coroded that the wrench bent and I was not able to get it apart to clean.it. Needless to say, I was not pleased as I have now wasted my entire morning with HF.
I got my money back from HF and went to Northern Tool. They had a very similar looking gun for $65. Once I got that back to he shop I realized what was different. The gun came apart simply and easily. All the internal parts were stainless. The gun was a 1.4 tip with a metal cup and worked really well for me. Just wanted to pass on my experience for those looking for a reasonably priced spray gun.
I got my money back from HF and went to Northern Tool. They had a very similar looking gun for $65. Once I got that back to he shop I realized what was different. The gun came apart simply and easily. All the internal parts were stainless. The gun was a 1.4 tip with a metal cup and worked really well for me. Just wanted to pass on my experience for those looking for a reasonably priced spray gun.
your question regarding the fuel pump? I did something very similar by drilling a hole in my tank and installing an in tank pump. I ran AN flex fitting to a bulkhead, The bulkhead is compression for the hard line and AN that goes to the soft. hard lines down the frame, another bulkhead, AN flex to the stock fuel filter, filter to engine (flex line)
I would not run hard line from body to frame as there is some flex there. and I would not run soft line all the way from the back to the front. Is that the IN tank pump assembly that has the yellow foam around it to keep it filled? I had to run a sump of sorts and if that fails to work properly i believe there is a mesh product by holley called hydramat.
I would not run hard line from body to frame as there is some flex there. and I would not run soft line all the way from the back to the front. Is that the IN tank pump assembly that has the yellow foam around it to keep it filled? I had to run a sump of sorts and if that fails to work properly i believe there is a mesh product by holley called hydramat.
