Build Farm Fresh LV
- Thread starter JLawson
- Start date
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Bracket for a PTO pillow block? Is it similar in dimensions to the bracket up front?
I guessing its the spare tire rack bracket if it was on a LWB truck. Maybe it was standard for all frames?
Short wheelbase removable top trucks had the Spare under the bed, they share the same frame as the Lv, so it was probably easier to build them with the bracket. Unless the frame was swapped? Lv owners, check your frames! Would only apply to 65 ish rigs as the swb rht ended production in late 65. Oh btw, that is the bracket for the spare tire carrier Clevis pin.
Great build so far. Glad I was pointed here. My frame has same bracket.
- Thread starter
- #68
Thanks for the encouragement fellas. I am jones-ing right now because the LV is at Kyle's for some more body work. He hopes to get on it next week. 
In the mean time, Frank finished the blasting cabinet! Of course, I could have used it a while ago but that's the way my life goes. Thinking of the best ideas after I need them.
I had been looking at them for awhile. Knew I needed one but I had used thee small HF one that a friend has and it was not adequate to say the least. I wanted a large one and they were $1200 or more! I bought a few things from Eastwood and now I am getting a lot of ads both email and print. One of those had the blast gun set up with the pedal switch for $59 and that was it. I copied a plan from an online site that makes them professionally. I cannot remember the site off hand, sorry. I used their dimensions for the box and made it all out or plywood and lumber I had on hand. I bought the casters, vacuum,bucket, lighting and electrical supplies at Lowes. The sheet metal on the inside was given to me for body work but it was too thin so I put it in the box to protect the sides. The expanded metal was left over from another project as well. Bought the gloves online and two bags of glass blasting grit from Northern and he we go! It works well. I modified the pick up so that it has a fresh air tube that goes down to the end of the pick up. Like this picture.
One of the most frustrating things with the HF blast cabinet was the inconsistent pick up. This seems to have solved that issue. At the end where the two pipes are welded together is a 5/16" hole connecting them which allows it to pull air from above the sand to the end of the siphon. I used JBweld to stick mine two pieces of left over 1/2" electrical conduit together. The lights are the LED in a tube kind from lowes. I got 12' initially and thought I should have more so I got another 12' and they just screw right together. No extra plug or anything. I have plenty of light.
In the mean time, Frank finished the blasting cabinet! Of course, I could have used it a while ago but that's the way my life goes. Thinking of the best ideas after I need them. I had been looking at them for awhile. Knew I needed one but I had used thee small HF one that a friend has and it was not adequate to say the least. I wanted a large one and they were $1200 or more! I bought a few things from Eastwood and now I am getting a lot of ads both email and print. One of those had the blast gun set up with the pedal switch for $59 and that was it. I copied a plan from an online site that makes them professionally. I cannot remember the site off hand, sorry. I used their dimensions for the box and made it all out or plywood and lumber I had on hand. I bought the casters, vacuum,bucket, lighting and electrical supplies at Lowes. The sheet metal on the inside was given to me for body work but it was too thin so I put it in the box to protect the sides. The expanded metal was left over from another project as well. Bought the gloves online and two bags of glass blasting grit from Northern and he we go! It works well. I modified the pick up so that it has a fresh air tube that goes down to the end of the pick up. Like this picture.
One of the most frustrating things with the HF blast cabinet was the inconsistent pick up. This seems to have solved that issue. At the end where the two pipes are welded together is a 5/16" hole connecting them which allows it to pull air from above the sand to the end of the siphon. I used JBweld to stick mine two pieces of left over 1/2" electrical conduit together. The lights are the LED in a tube kind from lowes. I got 12' initially and thought I should have more so I got another 12' and they just screw right together. No extra plug or anything. I have plenty of light.
Please give a little more detail on the siphon tube setup. I have a blast cabinet and cannot get the thing to work worth a crap. I think it has to do with the siphon but don’t know what the problem is. It Slurps the media. Works great then not then great then not, you get the idea. Band head!
There are several things that can make a blast cabinet perform in that manner. One of those issues would be the "sand" not falling back into the hopper completely. I believe that's why Jlawson has a vibratory unit attached to his unit. I have a Skatblast unit from TP Tools and really like the way it performs. But occasionally I have to encourage the media (i.e. Kick the hopper) all the way down. This usually happens as the media has been used enough that I'm technically "low" on media.
- Thread starter
- #73
I followed this guys thread; K&T Shield but did not do the air injection part. These are his pictures but mine looks very similar.
The hole is between them is 5/16" and it is 1" from the end of the shorter tube.
I used JB Weld to seal the holes from the outside and stick the tubes together in a couple spots. I did not want to weld he galvanized conduit I was using.
I used JB Weld to seal the holes from the outside and stick the tubes together in a couple spots. I did not want to weld he galvanized conduit I was using.
- Thread starter
- #74
OK, So deeper down the rabbit hole I go! Kyle had to take the roof off to get to the rust over the windows! 
He said it wasn't that bad a job and it will save him more than the three hours it took to get it off and he will be able to address all the other rust he found in there. Other rust? I will let the pictures tell the story.
He said it wasn't that bad a job and it will save him more than the three hours it took to get it off and he will be able to address all the other rust he found in there. Other rust? I will let the pictures tell the story.
it is crazy how bad these LV's rusted. glad to see he is doing it right. regarding those fenders, you may want to separate the bracket from the fender because there is very likely rust between the two.
- Thread starter
- #78
What? Your breaking up Merbesfield......... I can't make out what you are saying over the noise of all the can openers running at full speed here!!! 
Now if I could just find that description from JackA? I am sure he said it was "rust free"?
Maybe it is in here with my budget....
I still have my eye on the prize though....
. Just going to take a little longer to get there.
Now if I could just find that description from JackA? I am sure he said it was "rust free"?
Maybe it is in here with my budget....
I still have my eye on the prize though....
. Just going to take a little longer to get there.Now if I could just find that description from JackA? I am sure he said it was "rust free"?
That is alot worse looking than I remember. It was probably worded like alittle or some rust around the headliner edge.
It is interesting to see the roof structure with the top skin off. Keep up the good work. It will get there........eventually.