- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Threads
- 162
- Messages
- 4,044
- Location
- Hillsboro, OR
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- www.cascadecruisers.com
well... not to further hi-jack this thread but Big Blue is back home now.
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Moby
GOLD Star
well... not to further hi-jack this thread but Big Blue is back home now.
Congrats! Having just brought mine home I know the feeling
- Thread starter
- #83
Hey Mace,
is your 203 orientated straight up and down or does it favor a side. Basically I have the option of clocking the case a few degrees since I get to drill new holes on the 203 for mounting it to the 4L80e adapter. I am curious on how your is set up and if you would change the position any? I'm not after a flat belly so I don't mind if it hangs down some, just don't want it to be an anchor.
is your 203 orientated straight up and down or does it favor a side. Basically I have the option of clocking the case a few degrees since I get to drill new holes on the 203 for mounting it to the 4L80e adapter. I am curious on how your is set up and if you would change the position any? I'm not after a flat belly so I don't mind if it hangs down some, just don't want it to be an anchor.
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- Thread starter
- #84
weekly update
This showed up last week. I wasn't able to find a used one so I had to go with a new one from HERE.
The front side of the 32 spline input for the 203.
Back side
This is the seal No. that I pick up from Napa.
It's the single wider seal with the double lip. It's application was for a 203 behind a turbo 400. I believe my 203 came behind a turbo 350 and the parts computer said it took a different seal which they didn't have (which I think is the two seals put in back to back).
Double single seals on the left, single double-liped seal on the right
Input gear comparison. 27 spline on left, 32 spline on the right. The bearing was good so I reused it. Getting the bearing retainer clip off of the old shaft and on the new one turned into quite a job. I had to leave it alone for awhile and come back to it because I was having the urge to grab a BFH.
Just like Mace said in post NO. 60 the adapter centers on the bearing retainer.
Good fit
Decided to add a drain port to the 203. I used a "metal shavings removal device" to assist in cleanliness while drilling.
Got the input gear and shifting mechanism back in the 203. Put the adapter on the 203 and made my cardboard cutout of the intermediate shaft retainer idea.
Cleaned and painted the 4L80e 4x4 adapter
Cut this out of the stepvan frame. I made the inner circle by drilling holes around my tracing on a drill press. Then I took a dremel tool to it and fine-tuned the hole size.
The adapter can be rotated without it hitting the retainer I made. I'm using existing bolt holes to fasten the retainer and that will plug those holes up. Now I'll have to deal with the ones around the input shaft area under the adapter.
This showed up last week. I wasn't able to find a used one so I had to go with a new one from HERE.
The front side of the 32 spline input for the 203.
Back side
This is the seal No. that I pick up from Napa.
It's the single wider seal with the double lip. It's application was for a 203 behind a turbo 400. I believe my 203 came behind a turbo 350 and the parts computer said it took a different seal which they didn't have (which I think is the two seals put in back to back).
Double single seals on the left, single double-liped seal on the right
Input gear comparison. 27 spline on left, 32 spline on the right. The bearing was good so I reused it. Getting the bearing retainer clip off of the old shaft and on the new one turned into quite a job. I had to leave it alone for awhile and come back to it because I was having the urge to grab a BFH.
Just like Mace said in post NO. 60 the adapter centers on the bearing retainer.
Good fit
Decided to add a drain port to the 203. I used a "metal shavings removal device" to assist in cleanliness while drilling.
Got the input gear and shifting mechanism back in the 203. Put the adapter on the 203 and made my cardboard cutout of the intermediate shaft retainer idea.
Cleaned and painted the 4L80e 4x4 adapter
Cut this out of the stepvan frame. I made the inner circle by drilling holes around my tracing on a drill press. Then I took a dremel tool to it and fine-tuned the hole size.
The adapter can be rotated without it hitting the retainer I made. I'm using existing bolt holes to fasten the retainer and that will plug those holes up. Now I'll have to deal with the ones around the input shaft area under the adapter.
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Nice, I could not find the double seal. So I used 2 of the other ones (very common apparently)
BTW, that is a hell of a intermediate shaft retainer. Mine is a piece of 1.5" flat stock..
BTW, that is a hell of a intermediate shaft retainer. Mine is a piece of 1.5" flat stock..
- Thread starter
- #86
Nice, I could not find the double seal. So I used 2 of the other ones (very common apparently)
BTW, that is a hell of a intermediate shaft retainer. Mine is a piece of 1.5" flat stock..
Thanks.
Do you think JB weld will work for pluging in the other holes on the 203 or just use some gasket sealant stuff?
Great build-up thread. I'm getting ready to go down the same road with my Pig and all these threads are a huge asset. Thanks
mace.... this guy is kicking your ass. 
You suprised?? lolmace.... this guy is kicking your ass.
- Thread starter
- #91
Mace you're a good sport.
I've been trying to get a hold of Mudraks for the past three weeks with no success so I decided to call Jerry Nichols with colorado offroad express and he picked up the phone on the second ring. After 5 minutes of business and 20 minutes of chatting I got his info to pay for the 203 to splitcase doubler using paypal. I got my confirmation email saying the adapter was in stock and that he was just waiting for the tracking number. I'm happy I found his number on this board and if anyone needs it again here it is:
Jerry Nichols 719-576-0616 for the 203 to splitcase adapter
I was happy with the service. He also told me to watch out for the splitcase rebuild kits (since I asked) that replace the intermediate shaft. There have been kits with soft shafts. He said to test it with a file on the corner, it should dance on the metal. If it bites/files into it the shaft is not hardened enough and to send it back. He said these soft shafts are wearing groves in them in 1500 miles. So I thought I'd pass on the warning.
I've been trying to get a hold of Mudraks for the past three weeks with no success
so I decided to call Jerry Nichols with colorado offroad express and he picked up the phone on the second ring. After 5 minutes of business and 20 minutes of chatting I got his info to pay for the 203 to splitcase doubler using paypal. I got my confirmation email saying the adapter was in stock and that he was just waiting for the tracking number. I'm happy I found his number on this board and if anyone needs it again here it is: Jerry Nichols 719-576-0616 for the 203 to splitcase adapter
I was happy with the service. He also told me to watch out for the splitcase rebuild kits (since I asked) that replace the intermediate shaft. There have been kits with soft shafts. He said to test it with a file on the corner, it should dance on the metal. If it bites/files into it the shaft is not hardened enough and to send it back. He said these soft shafts are wearing groves in them in 1500 miles. So I thought I'd pass on the warning.
Jerry is da Man! glad he could help you out!
- Thread starter
- #93
Guys, I ordered my 203 adapter just 3 days ago and it showed up this morning! Great service. Don't hesitate to give Jerry a call if you are going to pick up this adapter. I still have to order a splitcase rebuild kit so I will get as much together this weekend as I can and will get pics of the parts.
Great service. Don't hesitate to give Jerry a call if you are going to pick up this adapter. I still have to order a splitcase rebuild kit so I will get as much together this weekend as I can and will get pics of the parts.
Sweet deal. BTW- good seeing you last night and congrats again on the beautiful baby... Now get wrenchin'!
Hank
SILVER Star
IMHO put your Transcooler out front and low, your a/c condensor next, your Intercooler after that and finally the radiator. I would run a pair of electric fans, one on and one thermostatically controlled for those hot days or hard work. If one doesn't fit, take out the trans cooler and get an inline cooler such as this: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR-41200&N=700+115&autoview=sku or this: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM-1003&N=700+115&autoview=sku or this might even fit somewhere: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EAR-41610ERL&N=700+115&autoview=sku I have had good luck with those in tight swaps. Nice project. Keep it up. Congrats on the new family addition.
- Thread starter
- #96
Thanks Hank, the new boy is great. Now I'm even more glad to have a big butt '60.
Thanks for the ideas on the tranny cooler. I'll be using the FJ60's radiator that doesn't have an integrated tranny cooler. Since the diesel tends to run cool I just bought a 3rd gen (dodge cummins) tranny cooler that uses coolant. The idea is that the tranny will help warm up the engine. I'll definitely be running a temp gauge on the tranny and if it's running warmer than I'd like I will probably pick up one of those inline coolers like you suggested.
I'm planning to run the contour dual fans. I asked the 4bt guys about needing air flow through the intercooler (having one of the fans running all the time) but they said at idle rpms I'm not making any boost so cooling off the intercooler really doesn't do anything. I'm thinking of wiring them for on/off operation with one thermostatically controlled and the other for additional cooling (maybe for the a/c). That way i could turn them off at a stream crossing or deep mud hole. Plus since I'll have more shifters due to the doubler, I can get more switches to make the dash look important.
Eskimo
SILVER Star
Diesel's generate more heat than gas motors. More BTU's in the fuel.
Unless you're just talking low-speed light throttle stuff..
Personally, I'd follow the KISS principle.. wire them both together on a thermostat, with a manual override on a switch that's also tied into the A/C switch.
On mine, my toggle is on-off-on - the top position is thermo controlled.. middle is stream crossing, and bottom is manual on. Be sure to put a light on the dash that goes on when you shut the fans off. (Terminal 87a is good for that)
Unless you're just talking low-speed light throttle stuff..
Personally, I'd follow the KISS principle.. wire them both together on a thermostat, with a manual override on a switch that's also tied into the A/C switch.
On mine, my toggle is on-off-on - the top position is thermo controlled.. middle is stream crossing, and bottom is manual on. Be sure to put a light on the dash that goes on when you shut the fans off.
(Terminal 87a is good for that)- Thread starter
- #99
On mine, my toggle is on-off-on - the top position is thermo controlled.. middle is stream crossing, and bottom is manual on. Be sure to put a light on the dash that goes on when you shut the fans off.
I like that idea. What kind of controller do you use for the thermo (like a dcc controller)?
It's funny that on our older rigs that didn't come with idiot lights we end up finding a way to put some on.
Eskimo
SILVER Star
I was previously using the old $16 adjustable controller from the parts store (The one with the probe)..
Now, I have a wire off the PCM that goes to ground at 200°
Now, I have a wire off the PCM that goes to ground at 200°