False Indication From BRAKE and Battery Lights?

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Joined
Oct 13, 2006
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Location
Chantilly, VA.
On to my next repair..
On my 1988 FJ62 the red BRAKE and the red Battery lights come at the same time. When I'm driving and and acclerating these two lights go out, but as soon as I slow down they both start to flicker and then stay on. Has anyone else experienced this issue? I'm asking becuase before I start to tear in to the dash or instrument cluster I would like to minimize any damage from digging in to deep.

Thank you.
 
Yea, my alternator is performing well, and I have a new battery. I'm pretty sure this an incorrect indicartion issue. It appears as though there is a short circuit in these two indication circuits, like something has either chaffed through a wiring harness somewhere or the there is actually touching on the back of the indicator lights.
 
look at your fusable link(s) I think the FJ62 has two separate ones. I would also check the alts output at idle. I bet it is low. it should read about 13.5-14 volts.

Dynosoar:zilla:
 
I'm looking at the wiring diagrahm for this circuit and hte BRAKE light and Battery (charge) light share in common the Charge Light Relay. And I'm hearing some buzzing when th elights are flickering from ubderneath the passenger side dash. So, I'm trying to figure out where this relay is now.
 
I'm looking at the wiring diagrahm for this circuit and hte BRAKE light and Battery (charge) light share in common the Charge Light Relay. And I'm hearing some buzzing when th elights are flickering from ubderneath the passenger side dash. So, I'm trying to figure out where this relay is now.

This, for me, has always been alternator related or a piss-poor battery ground.
 
I vaguely remember having a simalar issue when I bought my truck and I remember replacing a relay on the drivers side.
 
I had similar symptoms recently and replaced my alternator based on reading all related mud posts, not bothering with getting my alternator checked. Problem solved. The brake/battery/transmission P light blinking simultaneously at hard starts, bumps and stops is very likely an alternator on the fritz.
 
+1000 Alternator.

alt, FL, Ground - one of those will be it. Especially when it goes away as you accelerate. that = rpm, rpm=more volts... scrub your terminals on your bat, clean the contacts on your ground, check your FL for burnt/brittle wires or connections at the plug ends.

get your alt checked and i'm willing to bet you a shiny nickle it's output is low at idle. Vatozone has a mobile tester and don't even need to pull it.

HTH - GL!
 
I just replaced my alternator for the same reason , I had low voltage at idle causing the charge light ( and corresponding relay buzz ) and "brake" light come on at idle , 75$ alt and problem fixed.

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Well, I replaced a loose and worn out positive battery terminal and I still have the chattering relay along with the Battery and BRAKE lights. I cleaned and reseated the negative lead connection too. When the truck is sitting at idle the voltage across my battery measures at 14.4 volts. It seems like my alternator is fine unless it is not putting enough amperage out along with voltage (overall wattage generated?).

I checked with Toyota and the relay from them would cost $131 (jeeze, that’s a lot for little plastic relay!).

I guess before I replace this really I could inspect my fusible links a little closer, but visually I'm not seeing anything right now.
 
Check the neg battery lead connection at the chassis. This is one of the biggest problems that cause electrical intermittent problems in cars. Probably because it is easy to over look as a maint. issue.
 
How many posts regarding the alternator? Just wondering.
 
Yeah my Brake light in the last 2 days has just started to come on. Not always and some times it goes away mid trip. Not trying to hijack but any ideas?
 
To correct the brake light, try filling the brake fluid up in the master cylinder. The light comes on when the fluid is low.
 
Okay, I'm going to replace the alternator.....

You're on the right path replacing the alternator. The brake, alt, AT Temp lights are all classic symptoms of the alternator getting ready to fail. If you completely remove the air pump you'll find replacing the alternator much, much easier.
 
Yea, the sad thing is I had the entire front end of this engine off last year when I replaced the water pump and radiator. If I only knew then.....

I'm going to start looking at prices for alternators today.
 
I stated rebuilding my own twenty years ago. At the time, Toyota sold components like brushes, etc. but I haven't checked lately. Couldn't hurt to look at the brushes and asess the bearing's condition.
 
I bought one at the local CARQUEST this week. It’s a Bosch brand and the price was right, even before the core charge. I plan on installing it this weekend, if the rain ever decides to let up in the mid-Atlantic area.
 

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