Factory lockers versus aftermarket

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I do not currently own an LC, but am looking for one and have wondered this for a while. Is there anything to be said for the factory lockers (aka the magic switch) say compared to an aftermarket, like aussie for example?

I love the idea of having lockers right from the get-go, and haven't ever heard anything to make me think that they aren't "just as good" but I just wanted to make sure. I'm horribly finnicky and not in any rush to hop on anything i'm not completely satisfied by. I'm looking for a rig I will probably not get rid of :D


P.S. any hints or tips on what to look for when test driving a vehicle with factory lockers and testing them? (in say a gravel parking lot)
 
Factory lockers are generally the 1st and best choice if they're available. If you find an '80 with that option and there's a problem, you can always use it as a negotiating point for price. With the hardware already installed, most of the battle is already fought. With CDan at your service, most any OEM part can be purchased, and with MUD help available, most problems can be solved. IMHO and my .02.

Edit: As for testing in a gravel parking lot. If no CDL switch on dash, put in lo range which locks CDL automatically and light should show in cluster along with ABS light.(Axle lockers will not lock unless CDL, Center Diff. Lock, or transfer case, is engaged) Then use switch on left side of steering wheel to engage axle lockers with additional lights coming on in instrument cluster. Crank steering wheel to left or right and put in D. As you turn, you should feel resistance and you should drag a tire in gravel on both axles since they are locked. Don't overdo the test since this can put severe strain on your drive train.
 
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Here in the UK all come with lockers, what sort of price are we looking at to buy factory lockers? would it be possible to take the lockers off a UK car and then fit to cars across the water?

Has anyone got a photo of the lockers under the car
 
Here in the UK all come with lockers, what sort of price are we looking at to buy factory lockers? would it be possible to take the lockers off a UK car and then fit to cars across the water?

Has anyone got a photo of the lockers under the car

An axle swap is needed as the axle cases are not the same.

But back to the orignal post, get one with factory lockers. As for testing the lights should go solid. but make surethe parts are fitted to the alxe as I have read over there some fit the switches and do not fit the lockers!!

Paul
 
Factory OR ARB..... locker must be selective.... IMO...
 
ARB will engage quicker than OEM.

This comes in handy if you are in a difficult situation/obstacle.
 
ARB's are better than OEM's. OEM's are better than any non-selectable. Non-selectable's are better than open diffs. Open diff's on a land cruiser are better than domestic 4x4's.
 
ARB will engage quicker than OEM.

until the o-ring fails on the trails :D

ARB's are better than OEM's. OEM's are better than any non-selectable. Non-selectable's are better than open diffs. Open diff's on a land cruiser are better than domestic 4x4's.

Very well put doc!

They are both great options; the biggest advantage i see is that if you acquire a vehicle already equipped then you save money in the long run. The option will not drive up the price at the same rate as an ARB install, and matter of fact a lot of folks (owners) wont even know what your talking about. Once you get above a 35'' tire there is some advantage to the strength in design to the ARB vs OEM. But again if you regear at the same time as adding ARB's your looking at the 3 grand ballpark, closer to 2 if you're just adding the lockers. HTH.

Non selectable in the back is ok but i would NOT put one up front in these or any AWD vehicle. If you end up w/ an unlocked 80 you can add an AUSSIE to the rear for 300 bux and 3hrs of you time and get most any place you need to go.
 
JZ80 hit it on the head.

IMHO. If you are running 35 or bigger you will need to regear. So get an 80 w.o oem lockers and put in ARB's while you regear.. I think the $3k figure is a touch high for a DIY with good shoping but $2k is too low.

I work on one machine with 5 transmissions and a whole bunch more o-rings than any suv (CH47). O-rings dont just fail just because. Installaton errors from nicking them or installing them dry are the main cause. Next is getting foreign object debris into things as it is assembled. In the case of a pneumatic system debris can get in thru the air line. Be sure to keep crap out of your lines as you install them.. Better yet do the pneumatics while the diff is out and blow out the whole system before installation and the final cleaning of the pumpkin. A filter and water seperator is a good thing to have inline as well.

I will take a properly installed and maintained pnuematic actuator system over a electric system especially in something exposed to the elements like the axle. The pneumatic actuator is the simpliest and most efficient mechanism of the two and it is also deep within the pumpkin away from harm.
 
I had my non-factory locked 80 Series converted to factory lockers ... had to swap out the axles ... I purchased new ones but you can do it with used parts as well.

Big thing for me was the ability to take it to Toyota for regular service....so I wanted a system they were familiar with. Also, I heard the ARB's can more easily fail due to air leaks.
 
I cant believe you guys are slamming the factory lockers.
Those things are damn near indestructible. Those of you that have torn them out are wheeling harder than 99% of the other mudders.

The OEM lockers rock the house. ARB is a great option for those unlucky enough to have blown out the factory ones.

just my humble opinion.
 
Good points made by all. Find an 80 with the factory lockers and be done with it.
 
oe are fine and many including myself have worked them hard. but arbs are stronger and work faster.

who here would honestly rather keep the oe lockers if given a free choice to have arbs instead?

Hard call. Free? man, just because I would install 5.29's at the same time i would have to say ARB. But I do not want air line/ compressor issues. I have a friend with a 1982 FJ40 and he exploded his ARB. What a pain.
 
oe are fine and many including myself have worked them hard. but arbs are stronger and work faster.

who here would honestly rather keep the oe lockers if given a free choice to have arbs instead?

I for one would not swap for free. In fact, I like the elockers so well I put them front and rear in the 4Runner vs. installing ARB's. But that's just my opinion.
 
No doubt arb's engage faster. However, ToolsRus taught me a lesson about elockers that works quite well. If you think you might need them on an obstacle, turn the dial and let em blink. If you do need them they will engage. If not, they just blink at ya.

Buck
 
From what I'm told, if you have OEM lockers the passenger axle is different than a normal axle because of the sprocket that slides on the axle to lock the axle.

Any truth?
 
oe are fine and many including myself have worked them hard. but arbs are stronger and work faster.

who here would honestly rather keep the oe lockers if given a free choice to have arbs instead?

Hmm,.. having seen that fact that the people whose lives depend on their cruisers, aorund the world (more than 40 countries so far) choose to keep electric lockers -vs- ARB and others?.. I would keep the Toyota in a heartbeat. Not into fads. Into reliability.

v/r,

Bill
 
if reliability is goal and you use it within the limitations of its original creation then perhaps.

but if the 80 axles are pushed hard with big tires, motor upgrades, and hard wheeling i would feel better with an arb. i was under the impression the arb's were stronger. but then again ive never had any failures in the oe drivetrain to date.
 
I have run ARBs for a long time and the only problem I have ever had is the o-ring on the ARB compressor body popping out (twice in 7 years). A 1/2 wrench or socket and about 1 minute later the o-ring was back into position and the locker was working fine. So one may use a different air source, but really no significant trouble with the ARB compressor.

There are threads that reference the rear axle twisting inside of the OEM locker when large tires are used in extreme situations.
 

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