Factory lockers versus aftermarket
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- #22
Hmmm. Thanks all!
I gotta still mull over it. While I am not set on 35's, I was liking the option for a future of running 35's. So what I gather maybe, even if I was running 35's, nothing bigger... as long as I am not completely abusing it, it should still be ok? I like the peace of mind not having to worry about what is "too much" but then again, I am pretty mindful on my trucks and feel like I keep in check ... most of the time
Whoever said get OEM and be done with it is hitting it though. I am picky, but there is still that part of me that would rather get it stock than say I am going to install down the road for years and never do.
So then, can you add ARB in later on one originally with factory lockers, if for example something blew or you just wanted something tougher/quicker?
Lockers are a bit new to me, so this may sound lame as well but, the dial thats on the dash, to the left of the wheel on an OEM... Say you get an ARB instead, you still have something that's similar right? Some way to kick them into use.... is it just another dial/button/etc. you then just install yourself?
I gotta still mull over it. While I am not set on 35's, I was liking the option for a future of running 35's. So what I gather maybe, even if I was running 35's, nothing bigger... as long as I am not completely abusing it, it should still be ok? I like the peace of mind not having to worry about what is "too much" but then again, I am pretty mindful on my trucks and feel like I keep in check ... most of the time
Whoever said get OEM and be done with it is hitting it though. I am picky, but there is still that part of me that would rather get it stock than say I am going to install down the road for years and never do.
So then, can you add ARB in later on one originally with factory lockers, if for example something blew or you just wanted something tougher/quicker?
Lockers are a bit new to me, so this may sound lame as well but, the dial thats on the dash, to the left of the wheel on an OEM... Say you get an ARB instead, you still have something that's similar right? Some way to kick them into use.... is it just another dial/button/etc. you then just install yourself?
For what it's worth, I shopped only for OEM locked vehicles when pruchasing because you'll pay basically no premium for a locked 80. As mentioned above, most 80 owners don't even know what lockers are and have never used them.
Adding lockers to an unlocked 80 costs money and time while OEM lockers can be "free" so my mind was made up. I think the conversation of ARB or OEM are better or worse is pointless for the average offroader as either system works fine.
Adding lockers to an unlocked 80 costs money and time while OEM lockers can be "free" so my mind was made up. I think the conversation of ARB or OEM are better or worse is pointless for the average offroader as either system works fine.
fjfar80
GOLD Star
Tee -
Greetings from Hong Kong. I'll give you my thoughts on OEM vs. ARB. I bought my 80 "unlocked" mainly because my major criteria was finding a prime vehicle with low miles. I picked up my '97 80 in 2006 with less than 95,000 miles on it and it was a garage queen and a 3rd or 4th vehicle for a pharmacist. So, the lockers weren't as important to me as the condition of the vehicle.
I am in the process of building an expedition vehicle and I am adding a lot of weight and modifications to the vehicle. I am choosing to go ARB for a few reasons:
1. If I decide to go with 35 inch tires (or larger) I am safe for future adjustments;
2. The ARB's when installed properly are just as reliable as OEM lockers;
3. I want on-board air anyway so the compressor issue is no bid deal to me; and
4. I like the ability that you can field fix ARB's relatively easily - as Ducati said pneumatic driven items are simpler, which means for me they are easier to troubleshoot and repair than electronic items (at least for me).
So, independent of the price I like the ARBs. I drove several armored 80's and 100's when I was overseas (Iraq) and we had them all equipped with ARBs. I never had a problem with them when I needed them...flip the switch...and they were engaged. Simple, easy, fast, and reliable...that is the name of the game for me.
Anyway, just my thoughts...take them for what you want.
Cheers.
- Mark
Greetings from Hong Kong. I'll give you my thoughts on OEM vs. ARB. I bought my 80 "unlocked" mainly because my major criteria was finding a prime vehicle with low miles. I picked up my '97 80 in 2006 with less than 95,000 miles on it and it was a garage queen and a 3rd or 4th vehicle for a pharmacist. So, the lockers weren't as important to me as the condition of the vehicle.
I am in the process of building an expedition vehicle and I am adding a lot of weight and modifications to the vehicle. I am choosing to go ARB for a few reasons:
1. If I decide to go with 35 inch tires (or larger) I am safe for future adjustments;
2. The ARB's when installed properly are just as reliable as OEM lockers;
3. I want on-board air anyway so the compressor issue is no bid deal to me; and
4. I like the ability that you can field fix ARB's relatively easily - as Ducati said pneumatic driven items are simpler, which means for me they are easier to troubleshoot and repair than electronic items (at least for me).
So, independent of the price I like the ARBs. I drove several armored 80's and 100's when I was overseas (Iraq) and we had them all equipped with ARBs. I never had a problem with them when I needed them...flip the switch...and they were engaged. Simple, easy, fast, and reliable...that is the name of the game for me.
Anyway, just my thoughts...take them for what you want.
Cheers.
- Mark
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If it were me I would make my decision based on the rest of the vehicle and if I found a 95-97 unlocked I would then use lack of lockers as a way to get the price down some. If I found a 95-97 locked that was a good deal I would buy it. You cannot put ARBs in the OEM locker housings.
For me, finding a vehicle with a 1fz engine and OBDII would be the priority. That narrows the field to 95-97 though you should read under the hood to make sure a 95 is OBDII since there were some produced without early that year.
For me, finding a vehicle with a 1fz engine and OBDII would be the priority. That narrows the field to 95-97 though you should read under the hood to make sure a 95 is OBDII since there were some produced without early that year.
str8nm
SILVER Star
lockers
I know you have probably gotten all the opinions you will ever want already, but after owning two of these, I would look for the nicest truck I could find with a good PM history. I would not worry about if it had lockers of not as there is a remedy to the problem (if you see it as one). I have had both and had no problems. Only thing I was ever concerned about was if the factory lockers failed....then it would be an expensive fix with toyota...but they never did.
I know you have probably gotten all the opinions you will ever want already, but after owning two of these, I would look for the nicest truck I could find with a good PM history. I would not worry about if it had lockers of not as there is a remedy to the problem (if you see it as one). I have had both and had no problems. Only thing I was ever concerned about was if the factory lockers failed....then it would be an expensive fix with toyota...but they never did.
4WD Toyota Owner Magazine
SILVER Star
I'll chime in with a vote for OEM lockers versus ARBs. I've had ARBs fail, never had the OEM fail. This includes runs at Moab (3x) and Rubicon (3x) so I have faith in OEM lockers.
In an 80, no need to go ARB when lockers are already there. Yeah of course if you get an unlocked one, go ARB all the way. It's not like they're junk, they're great--just a little more...touchy?...than OEM. YMMV.
Dave
In an 80, no need to go ARB when lockers are already there. Yeah of course if you get an unlocked one, go ARB all the way. It's not like they're junk, they're great--just a little more...touchy?...than OEM. YMMV.
Dave
I got ARB's in my '86 truck and had minor issues w/ 'em. Ripped off the air lines a couple times on the trail but had a splice kit to repair 'em. The rear one had a leak so I took it in to ARB and had 'em install a new and improved seal housing free of charge. The solenoids leak a little bit of gear oil that I occasionally have to wipe off. That said, I should've gone w/ a factory e-elocker for the rear even though it's a little more work installing one. Will probably go w/ an e-locker for the front too when I do a SAS. I do like the sound ARB's make when you disengage 'em.;p
Do you have enough slack in the line?
Yup, I cycled my suspension to ensure there was enough slack in the air lines. Didn't really need to worry about the front end though 'cuz there really isn't much travel there.
So what broke your lines? If you have appropriate slack, the airlines are run tucked away, and the back of the housing is tapped you should never have any problems.Yup, I cycled my suspension to ensure there was enough slack in the air lines. Didn't really need to worry about the front end though 'cuz there really isn't much travel there.
I was driving through deep water/mud puddles each time and my guess was probably a tree branch or something caught the air line and ripped it off as I drove through. Thought about going w/ either stainless braided line or the ARB heavy duty kit didn't want to risk damaging the fitting on top of the diff since the plastic air line acts sort of like a fuse.
I have to reply to this. Either locker will engage when the tire spins. It may take up to 1/5th of a tire revolution for the OEM e-locker to engage. It may not engage instantly as the switch is turned, but what guarantee do you have that the ARB locker engages instantly? You have no indicator to tell you if it's engaged or not. I suspect that many times you have hit the switch and the obstacle before your ARB actually lined up the cogs and locked, but as soon as one wheel spun it fully engaged. You wouldn't know it. I do it all the time with my e-locker- the only reason I know it happens is the blinking light goes away.
I have never had a problem with the locker not engaging fast enough- it engages as soon as it is needed.
-Spike
Sounds good, when I first heard of them I wanted them. Then I met a guy that has them. He says they are very hard to engage, adjustment is a PITA, and he wouldn't do them again. I would like to hear other owners' experiences- do you have them?
-Spike
x2
As Ali said, buy a truck with factory lockers and be done with it. No $2,000 expense.... No air lines to install.... No air compressor to deal with.... No leaky O-rings.
If you already have a truck with open axles and $2,000 to spend then get the ARB lockers. They work every bit as good as the factory system; albeit with the minor maintenance issues to deal with (no biggie IMHO.)
If you have an open truck and very little money, get a rear Aussie locker. It isn't selectable which brings certain idiosyncrasies, but it will serve you well. Save up for an ARB selectable for the front (~$1,200).
-B-
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i dont have them but my little bro runs them in one of his jeeps and i have seen them hold up so well. i was present once when he snapped a chromoly axleshaft off at the ox in a dana 30. huge sound. lot of work to remove the piece but the ox was fine. the ox lockers are built well. i almost used them on my recent build instead of arbs
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
These are my exact thoughts. I've now owned two 80's myself and wheeled a handful more.
Get the best 80 you can find and do not let lockers be the determining factor.
If you ain't wheelin' hard enough to break your factory locker, then you will be served fine with an Aussie in the rear and open in the front.
I drove dragr1 four hours to a locked 80 only to stay there for 5 minutes and drive 4 hours back. It had a rebuilt title and was in terrible shape, he did the right thing by passing on it.
