Factory engine colors?

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What would be the correct colors to use for my rebuilt 2F engine, to replicate the way they came from the Toyota factory?

I don't need specific color codes or anything but is the block red, orange, green, black, etc? Is the entire engine the same color or are the side cover and oil pan different.

I'm already aware of the "Big Gay 2F" scheme, very eye catching but not factory.:flipoff2:
 
I thought they were black.
 
What would be the correct colors to use for my rebuilt 2F engine, to replicate the way they came from the Toyota factory?

I don't need specific color codes or anything but is the block red, orange, green, black, etc? Is the entire engine the same color or are the side cover and oil pan different.

I'm already aware of the "Big Gay 2F" scheme, very eye catching but not factory.:flipoff2:

All black. But all the bolts were cad as far as I can tell. None were painted black.


Would be good to get some pics of f's and 2f's when they were new. Where is Johnny?
 
Would be good to get some pics of f's and 2f's when they were new. Where is Johnny?

Yes, I've seen many pictures of older Fs that are or were different colors. Enough to wonder if FJ25s, at least, came with the engines painted the same as the truck.


Part of me doesn't want to believe that, but it's very common.
 
From what I know and have seen, the brackets and bolts and such will be cad plated, or gold zinc in color. Any aluminum parts are just bare aluminum. This includes the intake, the valve cover, the water pump and thermostat housing. I don't know what kind of finish the stock exhaust manifold had. I suspect they were just bare cast. All steel parts and the engine block and head are black. Air cleaner, black.

Typically factory built engines are just sprayed all at one time, including the bolts and gaskets. It looks better if all the bolts are installed later, along with gaskets, it produces a more detailed engine. I'm not entireily sure how Toyota did it. I know the stock engine paint was kind of thin. What I remember is the bolts are usually not painted, nor are the gaskets. The trick is not getting paint under gasket surfaces, as it can produce a leak. This requires taping off the area where an accesory bolts with a gasket before painting. Or a raised gasket surface can be cleaned easily after painting with laquer thinner on a rag. The oil pan, side cover, valve cover, fuel pump and intake surface can be done this way. The hard area to do is the front where the water pump and thermostat housing mount. As this is all one flat surface, with no clear line where the gaskets sit. You will have to trace the gaskets, and tape around that line for a clean paint job on the front.

I have had good luck with engine paint on the block. Rustoleum for the accesories and such. I have been putting silver, or cast iron colored manifold paint on the exhaust manifold. Holds up pretty well if the manifold is good and clean. I have tried clear paint coatings on the aluminum, and it yellowed very quickly, looked like crap, so I just buff up the alluminum now with wire wheels and laquer thinner and brakeclean to get the grime and discoloration out of the cast recesses. Non abrasive bead blasting also works well on the intake and stuff to clean it up. Valve cover was probably not overly shiny stock, but you can buff it up quite a bit. It will dull with time though.
 
I went with hi-temp black for the upper, gray for the lower block and black for the oil pan. Figured gray will help ID leaks later on. Will probably just polish the valve cover.
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