F rebuild cost $$$ (1 Viewer)

[customcruiser]

I have a 71 with stock F -- it runs well now but for how long ???
my question is should i rebuild this engine now, wait for it to go, or get somthing else.
i have seen the rebuild kits on the net for about $1000 and since i dont have any experience with motors i would have to PAY somebody else for the labor which is usually the expensive part.
i am going for the most cost effictive way, and if these motor are in high demand should i sell this one or should i say CAN i sell this one. i have no idea how many miles or if it has ever been rebuilt.
my thoughts are getting a "newer" motor/transmission but want to save that mighty $

 

[cruzer]

Does the bottome end knock? Does it smoke? Is there something wrong with the engine causeing you to want to rebuild it? If not then just run it till something is wrong with it. The engine should last for 200K if you take care of it..ie oil changeds, regular maintnance, don't overheart engine, ect ect... If you are having lots of problems with your engine and it is on the verge of dying you have several options....

1)rebuild F motor...not worth it IMHO unless you are doing a restore....it is also not worth very much money(200? in good condition)

2)get a newer 2F motor from a donar truck and swap that in, with a 4spd tranny and 3spd transfer case. This is probably the cheapest and best way to go...probably want to look around for a complete donar vehicle for this and take what you need from it then sell off the rest....

3)Do a V8 swap of some kind...


HTH

Stew

 

[cruiserman]

F motors are boat anchors, so if it takes a dump, haul it to the dump. I concur with the above recommendations. It would be a good motor to learn on if you want to do a rebuild yourself, but I would run it until it craps out.

 

[customcruiser]

it smoke alittle when i stomp on the gas -- not as bad as my dads 69 mustang which has been fully restored and sitting in a storage crate.
its overheated once since i have had it -- it was on the trail pulling out my bros 4runner (it took us 4 hrs that night and then another 4 the next day) the cruiser was running for about 3 hours and under alot of stress before spitting out all its antifreeze. this is the only problem i have had except one day it wouldnt start -- the next day started on first try.

just dont want to be on the trail and have engine failure and find out it was somthing simple and ruin my motor since i didnt spend alittle time and money checking everthing out.

V8 swap if any, but like you say only when this one is almost dead :'(

 

[CruisinGA]

I guess I'm the odd man out, but I absolutely love my F. Granted its an F and a Half, so none of the archaic filters like the early F's, but it runs great, is impervious to overheating, and its original. I like things to be original. When it needs it, I will rebuild my F, and keep on truckin. Its taken 30 yrs of abuse and is still askin for more. I'll have me a camaro or corvette when I want pure horsepower. I'm not saying a chevy swap isn't a viable option, it just isn't for me. A stock F has plenty of power for everything but mudding, so long as you have the correct gearing for your tires.
Just trying to throw up a different perspective, For what its worth :

 

[rick_d]

BQ-

you do not have a F like this guy speaks of. '74 (late) is a good type vs the driver side oiler system.

poster: your engine has >$50 value as it stands and rebuilt (fresh) >$400 you cannot really sell it
(side note: I had a rebuilt 1973 engine, rebuilt tranny, rebuilt transfer I tries to get $1,000 out of for 18 months with no takers)

run the engine til death and I would only practice a rebuild on a 2F (or late '74 F) and not waste anytime on the earlier engines. A used running engine will be 1/3 the price of a rebuild (block for block- no install labor).

 

[dd113]

F motors are great for what they are. I would only rebuild if you cant find a 2F to rebuild. A few things you can do to help it last a while.
Get an oil pressure gauge and screw it into the oil pressure sending unit hole using an adaptor. See waht you get at idle, 1500 and 2500. The pressure can be adjusted using the oil pressure relief valve in front of the sending unit hole under the manifold. The specs are in the book. You might need a new spring in there to get the pressure correct.
Replace the old rubber lines that go from the external filter to the block. SS aftm are out there cheap.
Pull the rockershafts. There are 2 O rings that seal at the union with the oiling tube. I buy them from SOR but I am sure others have them. Replace them to ensure good pressure to the rockers.
Run a few cans of the motor flush though it.
Run it until it dies.

 

[hammerhead]

...after it dies, put in a small-block chev. You can get AA belhousing kit and used V8 for less than yoda orig. Don't get a hi-perf car eng. Get a truck eng. I tried both. Car eng sucked. Truck kicks. Out pulls F any day.

 

[geocrasher]

I'm with everyone else but I actually did this. '68 F motor, 3 speed tranny. Swapping out for 2F/4spd. The F motor took a dive (head gasket most likely) and rather than keeping that old beast going, I am putting in a 2F. My friend (who I sold it to, and bought it back from as SOA LOL) got a 2F with a header on it for $200. Can't beat that. It goes in this weekend, but it won't be fired up and running 'til later this month.

 

[pvaman]

where are you guys finding engines so cheap. I looked at

cruiserparts.net and
nyblockexchange

nothing less than $1000 for a 2F (mine's an '85) and nyblockexchange couldn't even find one.

So...where's a good place to look...the bottom half of my 2F needs rings and larger pistons (if i were to rebuild).

 

[rick_d]

uh, begin asking message boards and skip the vendors. I bought a 125K dressed 1985 2F for $400 in January (and 75 miles from my house). For $1,500 you could buy a rotten complete FJ60 that runs so $1,000 for long block alone is b-o-g-u-s. Unless you will be hooked up on a "bro deal" by a vendor buddy, avoid all of them like the plague. $650 is about tops I would go for a good history long block 2F- it would be a deal dressed at that (dressed means all smog, all manifolds, carb, dist, etc- bascially a take out runner)