I had an occasional tick/pffft from the very rear of the Air Injection Manifold. The cap on the end of the tube had rusted through.
Exhaust(ing) leak(s) (1 Viewer)
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g-man
SILVER Star
A leak from near the #6 exhaust port could be the horn joint. I was able to get my rear horn off without taking off the manifold. It's tricky but doable. Got some sand paper and cleaned out the joint and put the springs and rings back in to get rid of the horn joint leak.
I hate to be repetitive ...but please check with your hands...the hear riser joint where the exhaust and intake manifold join. This is where my leak was and I swear it felt like one part of my downpipe to manifold joint was leaking between to studs. It wasn't ...it was exhaust air running down the manifold and bouncing off that joint.
I hate to be repetitive ...but please check with your hands...the hear riser joint where the exhaust and intake manifold join. This is where my leak was and I swear it felt like one part of my downpipe to manifold joint was leaking between to studs. It wasn't ...it was exhaust air running down the manifold and bouncing off that joint.
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- #43
I’m going to try to put a little air pressure on the AI manifold and check with soapy water for leaks. I tried when the engine is running and the water just evaporates before any bubbles form.
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- #44
So I was able to remove the check valve near the front of the AI manifold and apply some compressed air into the AI manifold. I did see leaking around the compression nut associated with the #6 cylinder. This compression nut is not only obstructed by the intake manifold vacuum tap and the coolant hoses that come out the back of the head, but it is also rusted more than the others. The more accessible nuts near the front I can get a wrench on and turn them. I'll have to remove more stuff to get to that nut at the back...Please stay tuned.
Very easy to twist the tube that inserts into the compression nut...
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- #46
I edited the thread title from leak to leak(s) as I seem to be chasing one after another.
Today I was able to take off the AI manifold, but not all in one piece
. @Spike Strip thanks for the lead on the flex head flare crows foot. I did purchase one, but I didn't have to wait. I have an 11/16" (normal) crows foot which is close enough to 17mm. I took off the carburetor, some vacuum/pcv hoses and removed the accelerator linkage bracket mounted to the fire wall. This gave me enough clearance to use the crows foot with a U-joint and I was able to break free the compression nut with it still rusted onto the union. Actually what broke free, I think, was the tube broke at the compression nut!.
I tried to break the nut free from the union once I had it on my bench, but I just proceeded in shearing off the top of the union. So now I need to source a union (90404-14329 discontinued) and either repair or replace the manifold (17306-61021 also discontinued). Any thoughts on whether I can repair the manifold? At this point I don't have the nut or the ferrule as they are rusted together along with the top of the union.
The other five nuts on the manifold unscrewed fairly easily, but getting progressively harder front to back. Curious...
Today I was able to take off the AI manifold, but not all in one piece
. @Spike Strip thanks for the lead on the flex head flare crows foot. I did purchase one, but I didn't have to wait. I have an 11/16" (normal) crows foot which is close enough to 17mm. I took off the carburetor, some vacuum/pcv hoses and removed the accelerator linkage bracket mounted to the fire wall. This gave me enough clearance to use the crows foot with a U-joint and I was able to break free the compression nut with it still rusted onto the union. Actually what broke free, I think, was the tube broke at the compression nut!. I tried to break the nut free from the union once I had it on my bench, but I just proceeded in shearing off the top of the union. So now I need to source a union (90404-14329 discontinued) and either repair or replace the manifold (17306-61021 also discontinued). Any thoughts on whether I can repair the manifold? At this point I don't have the nut or the ferrule as they are rusted together along with the top of the union.
The other five nuts on the manifold unscrewed fairly easily, but getting progressively harder front to back. Curious...
Ugh.
They can be repaired (I had mine like that repaired by the folks who re-plated), but the Union and Nut were still good.
Might be easier and quicker to find a suitable replacement, and get it Nickel-plated while it's out, for longevity.
I've seen a few listed in the classified, lately, as people seem to be de-smogging.
They can be repaired (I had mine like that repaired by the folks who re-plated), but the Union and Nut were still good.
Might be easier and quicker to find a suitable replacement, and get it Nickel-plated while it's out, for longevity.
I've seen a few listed in the classified, lately, as people seem to be de-smogging.
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- #48
So I was able to purchase a used but in good condition AI manifold from the IH8MUD Classifieds. I'm right now cleaning it up and will look into a to a local electroplater next week.
I also got an assortment of unions from different sources. All of the unions on my vehicle (1985 FJ60) were magnetic. Of the unions I got from other the other sources two were non-magnetic and seem to be stainless steel. The threaded ends are the same as from my FJ60 (M14x1.5 on the engine side and M13x1.5 on the AI manifold side), but the stainless steel ones are about 2mm longer. One person suggested these might be from a 3FE (FJ62, FJ80 p/n 90404-14012 & discontinued ). I would like to have 6 of these, but I'm not sure how to efficiently get them. And I have enough of the magnetic ones to get by for now.
In this picture the Stainless Steel unions are on the left and right and a magnetic example is in the middle.
I am also looking into how I might repair my original AI manifold with the broken tube for #6 cylinder. It looks like the manifold pieces are brazed to each other. I found something on the BelMetric website that is near perfect. But the M8 compression nut has M14x1.5 threads where the unions have what appear to be M13x1.5 threads. I can't find any nuts for compression fittings with the M13x1.5 threads. This seems to be an odd-ball size. If anyone has any information, I'd love to hear it. If I get some traction with repairing my broken AI Manifold I will start a new thread.
I also got an assortment of unions from different sources. All of the unions on my vehicle (1985 FJ60) were magnetic. Of the unions I got from other the other sources two were non-magnetic and seem to be stainless steel. The threaded ends are the same as from my FJ60 (M14x1.5 on the engine side and M13x1.5 on the AI manifold side), but the stainless steel ones are about 2mm longer. One person suggested these might be from a 3FE (FJ62, FJ80 p/n 90404-14012 & discontinued
). I would like to have 6 of these, but I'm not sure how to efficiently get them. And I have enough of the magnetic ones to get by for now.In this picture the Stainless Steel unions are on the left and right and a magnetic example is in the middle.
I am also looking into how I might repair my original AI manifold with the broken tube for #6 cylinder. It looks like the manifold pieces are brazed to each other. I found something on the BelMetric website that is near perfect. But the M8 compression nut has M14x1.5 threads where the unions have what appear to be M13x1.5 threads. I can't find any nuts for compression fittings with the M13x1.5 threads. This seems to be an odd-ball size. If anyone has any information, I'd love to hear it. If I get some traction with repairing my broken AI Manifold I will start a new thread.
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- #50
Sorry. I’m probably using confusing terminology. The unions for my 1985 FJ60 are made from a metal that will stick to a magnet. I suppose these are some kind of carbon steel. Some of my original unions I didn’t want to use again so I got some used replacements. Of those, two are made from material that will not stick to a magnet. It looks like it might be stainless steel. I got some feed back that these may be from a 3FE engine not from the 2F. Since I don’t have six of the stainless (“non magnetic) unions I will probably reinstall the carbon steel (magnetic)
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- #51
I installed the used AI manifold and put everything back together. Success! My exhaust leak is gone. In summary, I double gasketed the exhaust manifold to downpipe seal, put a remflex gasket on the exhaust manifold to EGR J-Pipe joint, tightened the compression nut on the EGR J-pipe at the EGR cooler and replaced the AI manifold.
In the end, I didn't electroplate the used AI manifold I got. I did ask a local power coater about ceramic coating, but he wanted $450 as a set up fee (!). The one I got was in good shape as is, but I soaked it in Simple Green then in Evapo-rust then painted the outside bits with high temperature spray paint.
I'm still going to look into repairing my old one. If something gets done I'll start a new thread.
In the end, I didn't electroplate the used AI manifold I got. I did ask a local power coater about ceramic coating, but he wanted $450 as a set up fee (!). The one I got was in good shape as is, but I soaked it in Simple Green then in Evapo-rust then painted the outside bits with high temperature spray paint.
I'm still going to look into repairing my old one. If something gets done I'll start a new thread.
