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- #2,561
Alright - coilover mounting 2.0 (and soon to be 3.0). As we last left off, I decided that the 4WU brackets would not work so off I went to spend more money. After hours of browsing off-the-shelf brackets from every vendor I could find I settled on:
- Barnes4WD frenched towers
- Barnes lower coilover mounts
- Synergy 3108 link brackets to try and build a coilover mount below the axle
I got one side dialed in pretty much perfectly, or so I thought. I ended up with about 4" of shock showing at ride height which seemed just about right. I used all the up-travel during articulation like I wanted. Had to notch the frame a bit to clear the spring at full stuff.
But then I got Brian's feedback (4WU) and he said it was crap and I should scrap the whole idea before I go any further. When Brian talks I listen. I would have very little body roll resistance because I have the lower mounts in-boarded so far and says I would be very unhappy with the results. I figured this would be the case but hoped the effect wouldn't be too bad. Problem is I don't want to find out after I have everything welded up. So - back to the drawing board yet again.
I am going to try and push the lower mount all the way out to the tire then move the Barnes towers back to a crossmember like I did on v1.0 In-boarding the top is not ideal either but at least I'll have some better stability by having the lower mount pushed out. I'll then notch the frame even more if I have to in order to clear the springs.
And since forums are all about sharing, here is what you should not do when trying to mount rear coilovers on an 80:
Here is the setup at ride height. Better angle than before, about 70º back. Plan was to trim away the excess from the upside down link tower
Full stuff, spring just cleared the frame
Here you can better see where the coilovers sat which is far too in-boarded. Even though this right about where the factory coils springs where, coilovers are different animal because it's a shock+spring combined. The factory shocks go all the way out to the tire.
- Barnes4WD frenched towers
- Barnes lower coilover mounts
- Synergy 3108 link brackets to try and build a coilover mount below the axle
I got one side dialed in pretty much perfectly, or so I thought. I ended up with about 4" of shock showing at ride height which seemed just about right. I used all the up-travel during articulation like I wanted. Had to notch the frame a bit to clear the spring at full stuff.
But then I got Brian's feedback (4WU) and he said it was crap and I should scrap the whole idea before I go any further. When Brian talks I listen. I would have very little body roll resistance because I have the lower mounts in-boarded so far and says I would be very unhappy with the results. I figured this would be the case but hoped the effect wouldn't be too bad. Problem is I don't want to find out after I have everything welded up. So - back to the drawing board yet again.
I am going to try and push the lower mount all the way out to the tire then move the Barnes towers back to a crossmember like I did on v1.0 In-boarding the top is not ideal either but at least I'll have some better stability by having the lower mount pushed out. I'll then notch the frame even more if I have to in order to clear the springs.
And since forums are all about sharing, here is what you should not do when trying to mount rear coilovers on an 80:
Here is the setup at ride height. Better angle than before, about 70º back. Plan was to trim away the excess from the upside down link tower

Full stuff, spring just cleared the frame

Here you can better see where the coilovers sat which is far too in-boarded. Even though this right about where the factory coils springs where, coilovers are different animal because it's a shock+spring combined. The factory shocks go all the way out to the tire.

