Engine

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Rusty, if the engine was at a low rpm/low load and it hydro locks it doesn't usually cause damage, and water ingestion through the exhaust isn't a game changer either. Just get the vehicle on dry land, pull plugs, turn over until water quits squirting out and let the cyl dry out. You are more likely to have electrical failure than engine failure if you cross slow enough.
 
The Tundra 4.7 is identical in terms of size, internals (different materials), and the mounts. The LC motor is a forged internals where the Tundra i-Force is all cast. Small things, but in short they are not a direct swap from what I've read. It would be very easy to slide under the two trucks and take a look. They may only be off by a inch or two and be easy to cut and weld new ones in.
 
Too bad none of the recent totals are parting theirs out. Maybe they could chime in and provide a contact at the salvage yard they ended up in.
 
The TRD supercharger was pulled due to the Sequoia and Tundra i-Force engines were throwing rods and bearings. The LC did fine. I'm not sure if the i-Force is a "better" engine for normal driving. The i-Force just isn't the same quality. You will also probably have ECU issues, they may of used a different harness for the engine as well. There is a huge amount of things to consider when taking another engine and putting it in another car.
 
There are differences and what all of them are is not well documented. The first being the LC motor was built in Japan and the tundra motor was not. The MC and tundra also went to drive by wire on different years. Also when I had my TRD supercharger the belt lengths for a LC and Tundra were different. I would stick with an LC motor if you can so nothing unexpected comes up.
 
Ok so tundra engine is a no go.

Now how about the heart from Lexus LX 470?
I mean the engine is the same, but accessories, ECU wiring, were those made in North America as well vs Japan?

Thanks

LX/LC should be identical except for the wood trim on the dash and the front/rear trim.
 
Rusty, if the engine was at a low rpm/low load and it hydro locks it doesn't usually cause damage, and water ingestion through the exhaust isn't a game changer either. Just get the vehicle on dry land, pull plugs, turn over until water quits squirting out and let the cyl dry out. You are more likely to have electrical failure than engine failure if you cross slow enough.


That will not help if you hydrolock the engine. Water comes in through the exhaust, typically when the engine stalls in deep water. If the engine fires on one or two cylinders with water in one cylinder it causes serious damage since a liquid will not compress like a gas.

Very bad juju.

You can also hydrolock if you roll and the truck is on it side or upside down for a while. Oil can get into the cylinders.


SOP in either case is to pull all the plugs and turn the engine over until any liquid is out of the cylinders.

:grinpimp:
 
Still looking for an engine along With my local shop.
We found quite a few actually in states. Problem is to find one with some back up and compression tests done. Some London guarantee that it will be a good heart for my hurt Hundy. Will keep you guys updated.

But are they selling the ones without compression data at a discount? Besides, compression is only part of the picture. I'd worry more about bearing play and cam health. Unless they were running in dust/dirt with no air filter odds are the compression will be good on a 2UZ. Do they at least have the miles on the truck when the engine was harvested? If it's truly an LC engine, at a reasonable price, and <=100k miles I'd probably go for it.

Worst case, you can always take it to a machine shop. Hard/expensive part is just getting it out of the vehicle which is already done. In fact, you'd have a unique opportunity to do some performance upgrades.... mill the head, port the intake, etc.
 
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