Engine swap-Engine absolutely stuck to trans. Guidance needed before removing entire drivetrain at once. (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 31, 2005
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Raleigh, North Carolina
I've reached an impasse in attempting to separate the engine from the transmission. You name it, we've tried it. Mechanic friend with over a dozen engine pulls and I have been patient, but patience running thin. Jacks, blow torch, raising engine, shock drop with a 2x4 support under trans, pb blaster. It's time to pull the engine and trans in one unit unless anyone can share the silver bullet. Got to get this job done. All misc accessories on the front of engine are removed, radiator is out. FSM seems to be pretty straightforward as if this is standard procedure. Will my hoist handle trans and engine? :oops:, gonna be careful. And yes, I'll put all bolts back in before starting entire drivetrain removal.;)


Advice appreciated on any ideas before I add a lot of time and labor to what I believed would be a relatively easy engine pull. Yes, everything is clear from engine(flex plate bolts, all trans bolts, everything), and it is loose from mounts, raised up 6 inches yet absolutely welded to the trans. Heat on the dowels didn't do anything. Don't want to crack trans ears with heavy prying. Guidance appreciated from those who have experienced my exasperation. I have a beautiful replacement motor just waiting to get busy in this 01 River Rock Cruiser.

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any cracking at the joint?
 
I've not done a 2uz engine out service, but on my more familiar I6 engine (7M) I have done a few engine outs. I much prefer to remove engine/trans as one unit. Separating and joining them in the car is far more difficult than doing so on a hoist/stand/the ground.

If your hoist and environment can support it, take them out as a joined pair.
 
I agree with @suprarx7nut, pull them together at this point and figure it out on the shop floor rather than in the rig.
 
I much prefer to remove engine/trans as one unit. Separating and joining them in the car is far more difficult than doing so on a hoist/stand/the ground.
x2. I’ve always pulled the engine and trans out as a unit. Would be hell trying to line up the engine to the trans if you pulled the engine only.
 
Your hoist should handle it . But IF your hoist has extendable legs (width) move them as outboard as possible for stability.
 
I'll proceed with entire drivetrain removal, appreciate the comments. Agreed on the pros vs cons of installation.
 
Two bolts easily missed, are just below the starter bolt at top of bell-housing.
 
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And those Devils are TIGHT if they've never been removed.
Indeed. Flex head with a lot of grunting. Would have slipped my pipe/breaker bar on ratchet if there was room.
 
you guys make me nervous. I was going to just go for the engine and now you have me questioning that. I haven't started yet.
 
Before I pulled just the engine myself. I called around the country to a few Toyota shops that do good amount work on 4.7L. Each one just pulled engine. I elected too just pull engine, due to limited space in my shop. Really was not all that bad getting back in alone. But would have saved time with helper, getting bell-housing matted back up.

The starter bolts, I gues I've done so many, I do not find that bad. The trick is to remove the one 10mm bolt holding wire housing connector bracket that hold 3 wire connector blocks on top of transmission. This give more room to get a 14mm, 1/2" dr. 6 pt socket on the DS starter bolt with 1/2" breaker bar. I have also (years ago) come from below across top DS of transmission with about 3' of extension & universal joint, to torque back in DS starter bolt. PS seem to never be issue.

Tip:

If going to remove intake manifold like for starter job and do a timing belt job. It's easier to leave wire harnesses in vehicle. Otherwise disconnected harnesses from vehicle and pull with engine.

Make sure to clean and grease pilot shaft guide port in rear of crankshaft and torque convert pilot shaft. They tend to get frozen in. Cleaning and greasing will add in lining up and seating bell-housing.

Never use bell-housing bolts to pull transmission into engine. It may bust rabbit ears.
 
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Actually I confused the issue, writing about two different things. My head is spinning with 20 different Land cruiser project.

Yes those are the top bell housing bolt easily missing, just below the 14mm starter bolts.
 
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